• Bittor Arginzoniz.The incredible case of the Basque barbecue grill that has the third best restaurant in the world

"We have carried the fire inside since we took refuge in the caves to cook whatever we hunted. It is in our DNA. Gathering around a barbecue is like an offering, a party, from time immemorial."

The speaker is José Gordón , the chef who, at the head of the Bodega El Capricho, serves what, according to Time magazine, is the best beef in the world. He is our lighthouse and guide when it comes to making our way between types of coal, power of the coals, bovine breeds and accessories necessary to get the perfect barbecue.

So that we do not miss anything, we also have the advice and tricks of another expert, Iván Migliore , who organizes Argentine barbecue at home through the El Ombú catering and has mastered fire and its secrets thanks to the ancestral teachings of his grandfather . Not even Georgie Dann would have dreamed of better teachers to offer a carnivorous feast at the height of their eternal song of the summer. And now, all together: "The barbecue / the barbecue / how I like / the barbecue!"

GRILL

Before you start, what is truly essential is a good outdoor space and a grill in good condition. In general, says Migliore, "in Spain you tend to have very small barbecues, which are good for making a ribeye round and round but do not allow cooking large pieces and require constant supervision". There are firewood, charcoal, electric and gas, but when choosing the most suitable, both agree that charcoal and firewood offer the best results . They also have their drawbacks, since in general cooking times are increased and fire has that unpredictable component that can only be mastered after many years of experience. Shake if the classic brother-in-law grabs the tweezers while winking at her and says with confused confidence: "I control."

In recent years, American brands like Weber have become very popular in our country, because they are affordable and offer good results, but they usually have elements such as smokers that are designed for experienced cooks. Of course, if what you are looking for above the taste is ease of use and more precise temperature control, the gas ones are unrivaled. Its disadvantages? They take up considerable space and are usually somewhat more expensive.

It is important to note that the grill rods are stainless steel and have a sufficient surface to distribute the food well , and even be able to have different intensities of fire and cooking areas.

RAW MATERIAL

If the place where you cook is important, even more so is the selection of products that we are going to put between our chest and back. For Migliore, the best thing to do is avoid supermarkets and let yourself be guided by the wisdom of a traditional butcher shop : «They are the ones who really know meat. They teach me something new every day ». Gordón bets on selecting pieces "with enough fat and, if possible, that have had an adequate maturation process."

Taking meat out of the fridge and putting it on the grill directly is a crime.

José Gordón (El Capricho)

As for the origin, the imported fashion of Wagyu or Black Angus meats should not blind us, since the quality of the Spanish product is unquestionable. Avileña, retinta, mirandesa, Galician blonde, Cachena or Vianesa are just some of the 15 indigenous races with which the man at the head of El Capricho works. “We must do an act of responsibility, even more so at this time, and consume our products. We have races that retain that weight of the past, that have not been genetically modified and are part of our culture and our heritage. ”

Another key to achieving an optimal result is the cut. No machines: the ideal is to do it with an ax and a knife, like all life . For a cutlet, Gordón's specialty, "the thickness should be between 4 and 5 centimeters." If we are looking for variety, in addition to the usual sausages and blood sausages, the vacuum, the entrails, the picaña or the sirloin can complete a first-class tasting menu. Of course, before putting meat on the grill it is essential to temper it. "Taking the meat out of the fridge and putting it on the grill directly is a crime. It's like scaring her. The meat should be two or three hours away, with a natural tempering ».

THE COILS

One of the most common mistakes when preparing a barbecue has to do with lack of patience. If we are going to prepare a barbecue in conditions, it is advisable to light the fire at least 45-50 minutes before the scheduled time for the service , although that time depends a lot on the type of firewood or charcoal we use and the pieces to cook. Although flammable pills and liquids are a temptation to speed up ignition, we should avoid them as they are potentially dangerous and affect the taste of food.

The fundamental elements, if we decide on firewood, are small branches or branches for lighting, in addition to medium-sized oak firewood and other thicker logs if we want to extend the barbecue for several hours. "With those toasted aromas that firewood gives you can achieve very interesting results," Gordón says.

To prepare the coals, both the Leonese and the Argentine recommend having a stove , a place where combustion takes place and where the coals are taken once they offer the maximum calories. According to Gordón, «you have to master the intensity of the fire a lot, know how to interpret the sound of the embers, which indicates the necessary point, speed and intensity. The grill is an art, you have to get into the product and try to feel the fire from inside ». Since that depends on years and years of experience, a good trick to know that they are ready to start cooking is to put your hand a few inches above: if we have to remove it after 2 or 3 seconds, it is that they are at the right point to cook.

KEYS TO COOKING

We already have everything ready for the show to start, but how do you know the exact cooking point? The answer depends on the type of cut and the thickness of the piece. Even so, both Migliore and Gordón consider the help of a digital thermometer essential , with 40 degrees as a reference that the interior of the piece is ready to serve. "Once you have that temperature, the sealing is done in a minute and a half, approximately," says Gordón. "The goal is to achieve an almost golden external color."

In the case of Argentine roast strips, Migliore recommends starting with a fire that is not too strong. «Lean cuts, which we call in Argentina, are whole pieces with a lot of fat that we leave to make slowly. As it is a large cut, if you put it on high heat it will seal on the outside but inside it will be cold and too raw ».

Another tip, courtesy of Gordón, is to learn to «dose the liquid that each piece has, when it loses its natural waters and releases what is inside the protein. That juice is pure gold, so it's not about losing it . " That's why he suggests turning the meat frequently when it starts to drip, so as not to waste the liquid and keep it inside. Right on the last lap, before serving.

The barbecue lover lives not only on meat. Bittor Arguinzoniz has made Asador Etxebarri one of the best restaurants in the world, cooking almost anything on the grill, from barnacles to elvers. Okay, nobody lives up to the god of the coals, but if we dare to try grilled fish we can get delicious delicacies at very affordable prices.

As for the vegetables, Migliore appreciates "that there is a vegetarian among the diners, because it forces you to put some green on the grill." Peppers, onions, mushrooms or zucchini «end up getting a better roast. I always accompany them with good sauces, a romescu or a pesto so that it gives them that special touch ».

ACCESSORIES

You can buy fireplaces, vegetable baskets and even belts to hold the beer can and have your hands free. But the truly essential elements are the tongs, a shovel or poker to control the embers and a good long-bladed knife , in addition to the usual thermometer. If you do it with a stick sharpener, so that the knife does not lose edge and you can cut the meat cleanly and without tearing the fibers, better than better.

With all that in mind and "all the meat on the grill", all that remains is to get together with family and friends and sing the summer anthem: "The barbecue / the barbecue / How I like / the barbecue!".

According to the criteria of The Trust Project

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