Behind the counter of a small delicatessen in the Prosperidad market is José Santiago , a type of legendary kindness. He knows the tastes of each client and always finds a thread to pull to chatter during the service. Cycling pats me while slicing york ham or cutting a piece of aged cheese. He has three bikes and more miles in tow than a trucker. Until this pandemic came I thought it unthinkable to see him frown. It happened in late March, I think, when I found him pale, serious, and protesting. Neither cycling nor milk. Ham knife in hand, he shouted to me that there were customers who

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