Bordeaux (AFP)

In the intimacy of the castles, in Margaux, Saint-Emilion or in a large Bordeaux hotel to taste the 2019 vintage: the primeurs, a unique system in the sale of great Bordeaux wine, is reinventing itself with the health crisis of the coronavirus.

Without a mask but hydroalcoholic gel at hand, some brokers, traders and journalists taste, in very small committees, samples of different Bordeaux properties, far from the intense back and forth and the euphoria usually marking the week of early vegetables April.

For the first time, the Margaux wine house (Médoc) has its wines tasted, from Grands Crus Classés 1855 to micro-cuvées, with a very specific organization: sessions of four people for 30 minutes at individual tasting stations, regularly disinfected.

Castles have, like every year, opened their doors to professionals but in a more limited way: only journalists, brokers and merchants have the privilege of tasting the vintage.

Unlike in other years, there is not an Asian, American or British. But they were still able to discover 2019 at home thanks to the sending of samples started in April.

Some were even treated to video-tastings. "It allows for an exchange and opens up different work prospects," recognizes Julien Viaud of the Rolland & Associés laboratory at Pomerol, who describes 2019 as a "good vintage", part of the series of recent years.

"The 2019 is about elegance and fruit. We have ripe grapes, rather on pretty red and black fruits. For the Merlot, notes of black cherry, and blackcurrant aromas for the Cabernet", believes this oenologist -advice.

"It will be pleasant to drink within five years, with complexity," he predicts, "there is nothing catchy, no aggressive tannins".

These wines, judged today while they are being matured, will be delivered in 18 to 24 months. Their sales allow properties to have cash and buyers in principle to save money as well as to acquire wines from great châteaux, which are often not found later or at higher prices.

- Good vintage, cheaper prices -

At Château Lascombes in Margaux, samples have also been sent "for almost a month to Bordeaux merchants, importers, distributors, sommeliers, journalists", says the general manager, Dominique Befve who exports 80% of his wines.

The context was already tense even before the containment, with sales of Bordeaux at half mast in France, the United States or Hong Kong, the leading market in value last year.

"It was difficult four, five months before the covid. It only sank the little hope that we had before," summarizes the CEO of this second classified growth. "It's complicated to buy now for our importers" and to be delivered later in this uncertain context, he admits.

"The Covid has added to a complicated trend in the wine trade following the taxes that have been put by the United States. Then there is Brexit in England (while) the English are very strong wine traders ", emphasizes the oenologist Eric Boissenot.

Some note, however, an interest in this 2019 vintage on the occasion of this atypical early vegetables campaign which concerns some 250 châteaux representing 3% of Bordeaux's volumes and 20% of their value, but which carries in its wake all of Bordeaux.

The first notes of journalists are published, as are the prices, and on the twenty or so castles that have announced theirs, the price trend is down by 20 to 30%, compared to last year.

"But sales are going well for the first wines released," notes the Interprofessional Council of Bordeaux Wine (CIVB).

The first to launch, the biodynamic château Pontet Canet, lowered its price by 31%. His wine sold ten days ago in three hours.

ale-cac / pjl / pb

© 2020 AFP