Paris (AFP)
The Michelin gastronomic bible will continue as if nothing had happened, others have canceled their prize lists or radically revised their evaluation criteria: with opposite strategies, guides are mobilizing to help restaurants knocked out by the coronavirus pandemic.
The chefs "did not lose their talent during the confinement, they innovated, created new recipes" and the inspectors "impatiently await and appetite the reopening of the restaurants", assures in an interview with AFP Gwendal Poullennec, the director of the Michelin guide.
It is "far too early" to say if there will be new stars or downgrades, but the guide will "do everything" for the next edition of Michelin France on January 18 in Cognac.
A strategy which contrasts with that of the competitors, criticized by experts recalling that the guide had ceased to appear during the Second World War and did not restore the classification until five years later.
Only 13% of Michelin-starred restaurants are open in 32 countries covered by the Michelin.
In France, the reopening of restaurants closed since mid-March because of the Covid-19 will not be decided before June and will in any case be carried out with drastic health protocols which will encourage chefs to reduce the number of covers and simplify their menus. .
For Gwendal Poullennec, the inspectors will be "perfectly capable" of making things clear and the criteria based "on the quality of the products, the mastery of culinary techniques and the harmony of flavors" remain "more relevant than ever".
- 18 months "dangerous" -
In the meantime, Michelin has launched an operation in France with the Fourchette to buy meals in advance, which has already raised more than a million euros.
Fooding, which is part of the Michelin group and promotes relaxed and accessible gastronomy, has launched a "Main course!" which lists the best takeout deals.
Second international gastronomic guide, Gault and Millau, wants to be "in communion" with the chefs who are "in great danger".
There will be no "cook of the year", nor "pastry chef", nor "sommelier" in the 2021 edition to be published in October, the guide guide Jacques Bally told AFP.
"Our responsibility as a guide is to highlight everything that is being done and will be possible to do over the next 18 months which will be absolutely difficult and dangerous" for the restaurateurs.
The guide will highlight the chefs who led social actions during the crisis and "new experiences" like click and collect, ready-to-eat and ready-to-cook or even the chef at home, an offer put in place for a few days by starred chefs who come to cook with their team at private individuals.
The prestigious international 50 Best ranking, based on the vote of experts, gastronomic critics and foodies who are invited to express themselves on their 10 best experiences over the past 18 months, including at least 4 outside their region, has canceled its ceremony scheduled for June 2 in Antwerp.
"We decided not to announce a list this year even if the vote has already taken place," said AFP Hélène Pietrini, director of World 50 Best.
- Restaurant of tomorrow -
"It would have been inappropriate. There are times to celebrate the best restaurants and times when you have to roll up your sleeves and make sure that all of these restaurants can survive."
Some were disappointed, but "the vast majority" welcomed, she says.
"This crisis will challenge our values", underlines Hélène Pietrini. "It may be less in the spectacular, more in the sincerity, the products, the philosophy of the chef."
"Simpler, more humble": for Jacques Bally, the restaurant of tomorrow will be "on a human scale" with the celebration of terroirs and seasonal products and more democratic prices.
"The world of gastronomy is evolving fast" in the face of the crisis and will know "losers, probably among the chefs who see a model of excellence as the only valid one. Those who agree to revise their formula can be on the side of the winners" , underlines Jörg Zipprick, co-founder of the aggregator La Liste, which will maintain its ranking of the 1000 best restaurants in the world this year.
List founder Philippe Faure cites as an example Noma in Copenhagen, one of the most famous restaurants in the world, whose visionary chef René Redzepi has just announced on Instagram that it will be served after the reopening of wine and takeout burgers.
© 2020 AFP