Bordeaux (AFP)

The Crus Bourgeois du Médoc make their revolution: their annual ranking becomes five-year and the mentions "superior" and "exceptional" are reintroduced, a homecoming wanted as a commercial weapon even if the excluded cringe.

"Five years, this gives us more flexibility at the commercial level to find partners and perpetuate the links that already exist. It will make a big difference", says Olivier Cuvelier, president of the Alliance of Crus Bourgeois du Médoc, who presented the new classification in Bordeaux on Thursday and unveiled the "Les Crus bourgeois" logo.

In 2003, the first classification of the Crus bourgeois - so called because of the bourgeois of Bordeaux who had acquired land in the Medoc since the 15th century - was decennial. But he had been challenged by several absentees who accused the organizers, themselves wine-growers, of being both judges and parties.

Result, in 2008, the classification becomes annual with the only mention "Cru bourgeois", validated on tasting by an independent organization, the office Veritas.

"But many prestigious castles left, since the buyers chose the Crus bourgeois at the lowest prices. The return of a hierarchy will allow them to be drawn up, believes the president. If nothing had been done, the bourgeois Crus would have died of their beautiful death ".

This 2020 ranking "allows us not to be shattered in the current gloom", says the vice-resident, Armelle Cruse, in reference to the economic difficulties of Bordeaux. In particular, a tour is planned on two major markets, currently at half mast, the United States and Asia.

All the reds from the eight Médoc appellations were able to apply for this classification for the vintages from 2018 to 2022: Médoc, Haut-Médoc, Listrac, Moulis, Margaux, Saint-Julien, Pauillac and Saint-Estèphe, with the novelty , openness to cooperatives.

The jury selected 249 vintages, or 31% of the Medoc production (28 million bottles): 179 Crus bourgeois such as Château Bellegrave or Château Lalande, 56 "superior" like Château Cissac and Château Caroline and 14 "exceptional" (Château Le Crock , Lilian Ladouys ...).

Five vintages between 2008 and 2016 were tasted blind. Once this first test has been passed, the castles wishing to reach the rank of superior or exceptional bourgeois Crus had to complete a file, then verified in the field, relating to the application of environmental standards, the technique and the development of the property. .

The estates, which spent 8,000 euros to present the file and 4,000 euros for the additional mention, could appeal, just to avoid legal setbacks like those that have agitated Saint-Emilion since its last ten-year ranking in 2012.

- "Important for export" -

Despite these safeguards supervised by the independent verification body QB Verification, "there will undoubtedly be disputes, people who are not happy with their score", predicts Mr. Cuvelier.

Some have also withdrawn from the race, for lack of being classified "superior" or "exceptional". Like François Boivert from Château Ormes Sorbet (AOC Médoc): "I come out of the Crus Bourgeois because, beyond the tasting note, I did not fill out a sufficiently complete dossier which was essential to have the additional mention".

"I would have appreciated if the family of Crus Bourgeois warned me that the file had to be more detailed", regrets this wine-grower whose château was already part of the "Cru Bourgeois" union list in 1932.

His brother Vincent (Château Fontis), on the other hand, chose to stay within the Crus Bourgeois: "I do not have a property which enjoys sufficient notoriety to do without the Crus Bourgeois. I need only my wines are tasted by journalists, especially foreigners, who regularly taste Crus Bourgeois, give notes ", explains this winemaker.

Positive point of the new classification: it created a certain emulation in the Médoc and encouraged investments. New tasting or reception rooms have opened ...

Vincent Boivert is already thinking about the future. "I am redoing my vat room while also thinking about the next classification!"

If the test is successful, the most prestigious castles could sign their return as early as 2025 within the Crus Bourgeois.

© 2020 AFP