New York (AFP)

From the length and prints of Tory Burch to the thongs and PVC of Namilia, New York Fashion Week saw the femininity expressed on different registers on Sunday.

To open the day, Tory Burch presented a collection inspired by porcelain, under the eyes of actresses Julianne Moore and Lucy Liu.

There was talk of the French, Turkish and English versions of this art, as well as the sculptures of New Yorker Francesca DiMattio, who uses this material.

The artist designed the prints used for the collection, at the request of Tory Burch, who appreciates at home the ability of her drawings to "blur the boundaries between femininity and masculinity", she explained to AFP.

Some of these patterns have brought a touch of radicality to which the American designer is not used, whose bohemian chic world usually remains restrained.

In general, Tory Burch took more risks this season, especially with these hybrid dresses, between fresh floral composition and total darkness.

- Porn actresses -

A few light years from the refinement of Tory Burch, the house of Namilia delivered a far more outrageous vision of femininity with, in the limelight, pornographic actresses.

Asa Akira, Marica Hase and Jade Kush were the stars of this parade in which the pornographic video platform Pornhub was the partner.

Nothing revolutionary for the Berlin designer duo Nan Li and Emilia Pfohl, whose first collection, in 2015, was entitled "My Pussy, My Choice".

"Our brand is geared towards the positivity of sex and the questioning of borders," Nan Li explained to AFP after the parade.

For this collection, called "Herotica", Namilia had fun with porn imagery as defined by men but also with the representation that Westerners of Asia have, from which Nan Li hails.

A woman's noodle box, with cascading fringes, biker-style thigh boots, ultra-mini skirt and cheerleader top with pompoms embroidered on the chest, Namilia delighted the audience.

- Walk in the desert -

Based in New York, the Iowa-born designer Jeffrey Dodd was inspired this season by a trip to the southwest of the United States.

"For me, the desert is a utopian place where I let my guard down and where I feel most comfortable," explained the creator to AFP, after the parade.

He notably declined the clay colors of the soil and the turquoise colors of the sky which he could observe there.

Accustomed to a style without eccentricity, Jeffrey Dodd has dared more this season, especially with fringes in shambles and asymmetry.

"I have finally reached the point where I am no longer afraid of being myself," he said.

New York Fashion Week continues until Wednesday.

© 2020 AFP