Paris (AFP)

"Extraterrestrials" wrapped in plastic landed on Sunday in Paris, on the last day of men's ready-to-wear week in a conceptual parade by Briton Craig Green, applauded for his debut in France.

The 33-year-old designer, one of the most gifted in his country where he has been elected three times designer of the year for men's collections by the British Fashion Council, has abandoned London Fashion Week in the midst of the Brexit debate to join that of Paris, which is constantly growing with young talents from everywhere.

Men wrapped in tents and sleeping bags are followed by others in outfits evoking bulletproof vests. Next come more lightly dressed models with rubber mesh tops (like those bags used for large fruits or bottles), a reflection on "intimacy", according to the stylist.

Some sets are made of Tyvek, a synthetic material made from polyethylene fibers that are used to wrap buildings during construction.

"The original idea was that of" packed people ", the way we talk about a person like a package, it's weird," said Craig Green to the press behind the scenes.

Monochrome white and gray, the clothes take on color during the parade, evolving into psychedelic patterns, surreal flowers bloom on raincoats.

"Strange and slightly scary", according to the designer, in any case not designed to be worn, outfits in rainbow colors covering the mannequins from head to toe and hiding the face complete Craig's show Green who made costumes for the 2017 film "Alien: Covenant" by Ridley Scott.

"I really like his work, he brings a lot of creativity that is so lacking in our countries," Belgian avant-garde designer Walter Van Beirendonck, a visual shocker himself a few days earlier, told AFP. with gigantic spikes and inscriptions like "I hate fashion" ("I hate fashion") or "save the planet" (save the planet).

- Corto Maltese version 2020 -

Passionate about comics, Lanvin's artistic director, Bruno Sialelli, was inspired by his mixed collection of Corto Maltese, the adventurous sailor, hero of Hugo Pratt, in a parade with a "young and cool" aesthetic in the National Dance Center in Pantin, northeast of Paris.

The coats, "incarnation of Corto Maltese" are revisited with details like leg sleeves or embellished with a scene of Corto painted by hand.

He is "a very universal male figure", underlined Bruno Sialelli behind the scenes. "I was obsessed with this figure of sailor born to a Scottish father and a Spanish and gypsy mother (...) Thinking about his trip and his locker room inspired me a lot".

The pants are short, some tighten on the ankle above large skate shoes, another passion of the designer.

Autumn colors - forest green and burgundy - invite themselves into the classic palette of the house, Lanvin blue or sand.

Although it is the closing of the men's parades, the sisters Bella and Gigi Hadid, in black ruffled dresses, as well as two other top of the moment, the Australian-Sudanese Adut Akech and the Italian Vittoria Ceretti marched for Bruno Sialelli. Which says he prefers a "less gender-based" approach for Lanvin, the oldest French fashion house still in business.

These female silhouettes are also wrapped in cape coats or long, flowing dresses with an accessory in the form of a pine cone.

© 2020 AFP