Illustrative photo of the Auberge du Pont-de-Collonges near Lyon. JEFF PACHOUD - AFP
- In the aftermath of the thunderclap that hit the Bocuse galaxy, Yves Rouèche, author of the book Histoire (s) de la gastronomie Lyonnaise , examines for 20 Minutes the consequences of this star lost in the Michelin world.
- He does not imagine at all the frequentation of the Auberge du Pont-de-Collonges decrease this year following this hard blow, on the contrary.
Randomly of the calendar, Yves Rouèche had scheduled for next Tuesday, as part of his courses on gastronomy at the Catholic University of Lyon, a zoom on the work of Paul Bocuse. This Lyonnais author, who notably published in November 2018 Histoire (s) de la gastronomie lyonnaise (Libel editions), shares his feelings about the withdrawal of the third star from the Auberge du Pont-de-Collonges in Collonges-au-Mont -d'Or (Rhône), which shook the culinary world on Friday.
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What was your reaction when you discovered the decision of the Michelin guide, after 55 years at three stars for the establishment of Paul Bocuse?
It pains me a lot because I have the feeling that we burn the throne of the king and his castle with it. The Michelin guide would obviously never have dared to take a star from Paul Bocuse during his lifetime. But be careful that the Michelin does not burn with ... Today, that marks us very strongly but it remains an epiphenomenon, all resounding as it may be.
Does this mean that in your opinion, there will not be so many negative consequences for the Michelin-starred restaurant in Collonges-au-Mont-d'Or?
I don't think there will be any immediate consequences, either economically or in terms of popularity. Gastronomy lovers know that this is not where they will find the most creative restaurant or eat fusion cuisine. On the other hand, even if it is necessary to reinvent itself, this traditional touch still has an audience and in my opinion there is no loss of notoriety possible. It would surprise me therefore that attendance (45,000 covered per year approximately) decreases in 2020, and I almost want to say that it could be the opposite phenomenon. Because many people find this decision unfair and will show their support for the restaurant. And we know that the pro-Bocuse consider him as a living god.
The Bocuse family "upset" by the loss of the third star https://t.co/rB7tLYInlw- 20 Minutes (@ 20Minutes) January 17, 2020
In the longer term, don't you think that with the disappearance of Paul Bocuse two years ago and then this loss of star, Lyon's gastronomy could find itself in danger?
M.Paul is no more and nobody today has his reputation as an ambassador for bringing Lyon specialties and even French gastronomy in this way. The only way out for me to continue to attract many foreign tourists is in the gastronomy valley (inaugurated in June 2019). This can offer for a week a tourist experience unique in the world, from Dijon to Marseille. By 2025, Lyon should transfer its title of capital of gastronomy to this entire valley, with chefs involved in the project such as Dominique Loiseau, Anne-Sophie Pic and Gérald Passedat.
Lyon: The Bocuse family "upset" by the loss of the third Michelin star
Paul Bocuse's restaurant loses its third Michelin star
- Michelin Guide