Paris (AFP)

A tap dancer accompanied the parade of the Off-White brand of the American Virgil Abloh, who returned to Paris Fashion Week after a burnout, with flowing silhouettes and vitamin colors.

The dancer Cartier Williams wearing a T-shirt "I support young black businesses" (I support young black entrepreneurs) opened the show by making an appearance from behind the scenes located in the middle of the room, in an atypical scenography.

All dressed in black and in the dark, the hyperactive creator, star of the millennials, Virgil Abloh appeared at the end of the show to greet the public after having been absent from the previous Paris fashion week this fall, forced to telework on medical prescription.

This parade before that, Thursday, of the French luxury brand Louis Vuitton - whose African-American stylist directs men's collections - was eagerly awaited, especially since this king of "streetwear" predicted in a recent interview the death of this tendency.

Off-White men actually wore a lot of conventional shoes even if the creator did not miss the opportunity to promote the off-White x Air Jordan 5 sneakers, among the most coveted.

Poetic looks with ribbon shirts topping flowing pants alternated with red, green or neon blue structured suits, with holes, a detail already omnipresent in the September women's ready-to-wear collection.

- Extravagance and "overdose" among Belgians -

"Opulence" and "extravagance" are like the watchword of the Belgian Glenn Martens for the brand Y / Project whose idea is not to "create a nice sweater", but to play with the details and "advancing design".

Her playful collection was presented in a gigantic playground filled with thousands of orange balloons, immersing guests in the happy memories of childhood.

In this mixed parade, man and woman, he explored the theme of the comfortable corset.

"The corset was made with wood, here we just cut the pants and the panties and so with the body we create the same silhouettes. But it's completely comfortable, because it's in jersey", explained the behind the scenes press stylist.

Gigantic point silhouettes on the shoulders and shoes and even on the cheeks to protect themselves: this is the metaphor of today's world of Belgian avant-garde Walter Van Beirendonck whose parade is called "War" (the war).

With inscriptions like "I hate fashion" ("I hate fashion"), "save the planet" (save the planet) or "stop buying fast fashion" (let's stop overconsuming clothes), it evolves "towards beauty and landscapes and flowers and even prints from the 70s ".

"I have always included political messages in my work, but I think that today, he said, it is more important than ever to make such statements, so it is a bit of a overdose this time. "

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