- Michelin and Spain: The Red Guide
- History: Michelin Guide
In 1974, Basque Arzak and Madrid's Zalacaín, Jockey, Club 31, Horcher, El Escuadrón, Balthasar, O'Pazo, Ruperto de Nola and El Bodegón became the first star restaurants of the modern era of the Michelin Guide. From that time, only the house of Juan Mari Arzak continues to belong to the club of the stars - in fact, with the triple distinction, the highest qualification of the French guide.
That era marks a turning point between two stages of the manual of the red covers that, right now, has in vilo to the Spanish hoteliers: on November 20, the tire manufacturer celebrates its annual gala at the Lope de Vega Theater in Seville to present the 2020 edition of the guide for Spain and Portugal. "It is a private event that, by personalized invitation, brings together more than 500 people from various social fields," they explain from Michelin, where they remember that this great gastronomy festival "annually brings together all chefs with three and two Michelin stars from both countries, as well as a large number of chefs from other categories and more than a hundred TV, radio, written or online media. "
This year seems special, since the volume corresponding to 2020 is equivalent to the 110th anniversary of the guide of Spain and Portugal (countries that historically share edition), while 130 years have elapsed since the foundation of the company.But, while the pools they multiply with the assurance that there will be at least one new triestrellado and, according to Michelin sources "it will be a good year, better together than 2019" -exercise in which there were 30 developments for the two countries-, the question en: why are Michelin stars so yearned for? Or, perhaps, there is a previous basic question: what is the Michelin Guide and how does it work?
In 1900, the brothers André and Edouard Michelin , founders in 1889 of the tire manufacturer, launched the project as a manual for drivers in France , which was first free and included tricks such as the wheel change at a time when only 3,000 vehicles they circulated on the French roads.
"This work appears with the century and will last as long as he", predicted the Michelin brothers. But, over 100 years ago, the guide, red today and yellow caps in the past, not only continues to exist, but has strengthened its power over time.
In 1920, it went free to cost seven francs in Spain , by decision of André Michelin, who after observing how his beloved manual held a 'lame' bank in a tire workshop, it was clear that "people only respect that for which pay".
He arrived in the Spanish market in 1910, with a joint edition for Spain and Portugal that remains today. It was published until a number that included 1936 to 1938 and, after several biennial editions between 1952 and 1973, the year 1974 marked the return of the guide with its most attractive element: the stars, distinctions granted to restaurants that stand out for gastronomic offer .
But what is the content of the Michelin Guide? The guide does not only include spaces with stars, but restaurants under different business concepts, from spaces to luxury to food houses or tapas bars and hotels. The company's team of inspectors makes hundreds of annual visits to restaurants and hotels, which determines the decision on its inclusion in the guide.
In the case of establishments with a careful gastronomic proposal they can be distinguished with the aforementioned stars to indicate the most interesting directions for travelers who deserve a stop on their way to eat. From less to more, one, two or three Michelin stars can be awarded.
A restaurant cannot choose to be in the guide through the fulfillment of some requirements. That is to say, the presence in the guide or the stars is not a seal consequence of the fulfillment of a closed list of points, but is the result of the inspectors' criteria . In the annual review of the guide, in addition to incorporating new features, there may be deletions of stars .
And the million dollar question: who are the inspectors and what requirements must they meet? They are employees on Michelin payroll. Graduates in Tourism and Hospitality must have previous experience of more than five years in hospitality, apart from passing a selection process.
In Spain and Portugal, they are around a dozen and, in addition, they are responsible for evaluations in Brazil (the only country in Latin America where there is a guide), but, within Europe (where there are more than 60), there is exchange and mobility of inspectors, so some of other countries also visit Spanish restaurants. "M, le grand livre du guide Michelin", a book recently published by the French group, gathers the experiences and itineraries of the inspectors.
Its function is to visit the restaurants anonymously, where they always pay the bill and do not identify themselves (except at the end of the meal, although, sometimes, the chefs have them signed) and issue opinions that, through internal meetings, give As a result the decision on the cast stars.
Decisions about awarding stars are taken "in a collegial way" and "without favor treatment". There are five uniform criteria throughout the world, considered by inspectors to award stars: quality of products, personality of the kitchen, mastery of cooking points and textures, balance and harmony of flavors and regularity .
Each inspector makes about 250 meals a year, stays in hotels for an average of 160 nights, can visit more than 800 establishments and writes about 110 reports based on a Michelin manual. "The selection is made with total independence, thinking only of the readers", they emphasize from Michelin, aware of the annual criticisms that point to a scar distribution for a market like the Spanish, which has experienced a gastronomic explosion in recent years.
What does it mean to get a star? At least, in the short term, reserves tend to increase, as well as the media visibility of the chef, while, on the other hand, an almost historical sector estimate is handled, which amounts to a 30% increase in business costs derived from possible luxuries ranging from household goods and the winery to the increase in the workforce. The reality is that the Michelin prize usually translates into an increase in the average ticket or the price of the tasting menu, the usual format in this type of restaurants.
Spanish balance
With 27 national or regional editions and "identical classification criteria in all countries", the global gastronomic market has 3,459 star restaurants. In 2019, Spain and Portugal, with a total of 2,119 establishments under various business formats (including 284 stores with good value for money awarded with the Bib Gourmand ), add 232 restaurants with distinction; Of these, 206 are Spanish and 11 look triple, 31 double and 190 a star .
Among the 11 with three stars, is Dani García Restaurante, protagonist of one of the most sui generis and unexpected decisions of the culinary sector. Just one year ago, chef Marbellí was the only new triestrellado for his space at the Puente Romano Hotel but, 27 days after obtaining maximum recognition at the annual Michelin gala, he announced his intention to close his haute cuisine business to focus in a growth plan through more casual formats.
Just this weekend, Garcia serves his last dinner of his until now triestrellado . On the other end, you will find Martín Berasategui, a Michelin record chef who has 10 stars in 5 restaurants, including two beveled ones.
In any case, these manuals are now coveted collectibles that are auctioned by high figures: the first of France in 1900 reached 23,000 euros a couple of years ago and the first Spanish in 1910 - considered the most expensive in the world for being the more complicated to get the 12,000 euros. The peculiarity is that only a Spanish collector, the Galician Antonio Cancela , and a Belgian own all the editions of the guide: 940 copies published in 34 countries.
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