By Silvano MendesPosted on 13-10-2019Modified on 13-10-2019 at 07:43
South African designer Thebe Magugu enters the history of fashion. He became, in September, the first African designer to win the LVMH award, one of the most important in this industry. A beautiful international showcase for this young talent, but also a spotlight for the contemporary creation of the continent.
A few weeks after the award ceremony, Thebe Magugu still has a hard time believing it. " Sometimes I tell myself that I will wake up and realize that this is a dream, " summed up the creator during a meeting at the end of Paris Fashion Week in early October.
This shy boy, originally from Kimberley and settled in Johannesburg, has just won an endowment of 300 000 euros, which he intends to invest in his brand. In addition to financial support, he will be followed by a team of professionals from the world's leading luxury group, who will advise him on practical aspects for the development of his business, such as production, marketing, and intellectual property.
" With these awards, there is a lot of pressure, " says the designer, who also won this year's International Fashion Showcase (IFS) organized by the British Council, the British Fashion Council, the London College of Fashion and Somerset House. But for him, this recognition is above all an opportunity to show the richness of the African continent. " I want people to realize that I am not the only active designer on the continent and that there are plenty of amazing designers, photographers and stylists. We are millions, "he smiles. Like the Nigerian Kenneth Izedonmwen, who was also part of the finalists for this edition of the LVMH prize.
Delphine Arnault together with all the #lvmhprize2019 shortlisted designers at the #lvmhprize showroom today in Paris. pic.twitter.com/dZlgTKoZWJ
LVMHPrize ★ (@LVMHPrize) March 1, 2019The youngest finalist
" I am delighted that a candidate from the African continent wins the LVMH award for the first time, especially since Thebe Magugu, at age 26, is the youngest of the 2019 selection ," said Delphine Arnault, Deputy Director General of Louis Vuitton and the initiative of the contest.
Magugu studied design and fashion photography at the Lisof School in Johannesburg. Graduated in 2014, he continues the odd jobs and, just a year later, launched his own brand, parade at the local Fashion Week and sees his creations available in various multibrand shops in South Africa, where he begins to have a certain notoriety.
A committed brand?
According to him, the Paris jury, made up of the artistic directors of the LVMH group's brands, Maria Grazia Chiuri (Dior), Nicolas Ghesquiere (Luis Vuitton), Clare Waight Keller (Givenchy) and Marc Jacobs, seemed very interested in the African sources of inspiration for his creations. " I make ready-to-wear for women, but I think my brand also has a cultural dimension, " says the designer, who is systematically inspired by the reality of his country, with topics tinged with a reflection more social, almost committed.
►To listen too: How is African fashion exported?
Since his beginnings, he has given his collections names from academic subjects. For Fall-Winter 2018, it was Home Economics , while the previous season, the title was Gender Studies . Each time he explores the theme of the feminine force in South Africa. " We are constantly surrounded by women and, on a personal level, the trait I have always found most admirable is their ability to possess both strength and vulnerability. An aspect to which I was exposed thanks to matriarchal characters who nourished me , "says the young man, raised by his mother and aunt, his first supporters.
Black Sash, the other history of apartheid
The collection that won the LVMH prize is called Prosopography, and is inspired by the Black Sash , white women who, since the 1950s, faced apartheid in South Africa. "We often talk about Desmond Tutu and Nelson Mandela. However, there are the smallest voices, whose stories are lost in historical transcriptions, but which have also played an important role in the struggle for freedom, "says Magugu.
The Prosopography collection, inspired by Black Sash
Thebe Magugu
The Prosopography collection, inspired by Black Sash
Thebe Magugu
: The Prosopography Collection, inspired by Black Sash
Thebe Magugu
The Prosopography collection, inspired by Black Sash
Thebe Magugu
As a result, on the catwalks they are sometimes classic pieces - like some pleated skirts - but with daring details and some touches of bold colors. Or dresses in which excerpts from her child diary are printed on silk. An outfit that, by the way, caught the attention of Anna Wintour, the editor-in-chief of Vogue America magazine, who scrutinized her work during the evaluations for the award.
Global ambition for a local brand
But beyond the sources of inspiration, Magugu integrates Africa in the whole process of creating its brand. The pieces are made in Johannesburg and he uses local artisans on every stage of production. " When I presented my collection to the jury, I said that my dream was to build a global brand, which is exported everywhere, " says the designer. " But I also told them that for me it was important to stay in my country. My mission has always been to show contemporary South Africa. I want to finish with some stereotypes a little easy on Africa and the fashion from this continent, "insists the designer.
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Besides, he thinks things are starting to change. " Before, people said: Africa is the thing of the moment, it's the new trend. But, the season after, the thing of the moment was elsewhere. Except now, there is a more real interest for our continent. We look at what we do, not just as a source of inspiration, but as a possible investment. We are trying to understand Africa, "he says. Including at LVMH. " They know less my country, since they are less present in the continent. So, even if they provide their expertise and give me lots of advice, they also learn a lot in this process. So it's a big challenge on both sides . "
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