Saint-Nectaire (France) (AFP)

In the summer, Thierry Massoulier's shop is always full: this producer of Saint-Nectaire fermier surfs on the success of the nutty cheese made in Auvergne, but the sector lacks arms and seeks to recruit.

"Saint-nectaire is a special taste, often associated with childhood memories, Puy-de-Dôme, nature, open spaces," says the breeder, who turns his milk into cheese before send it to a maturing cellar and then market it.

After having started alone in dairy farming, Mr. Massoulier settled with two other breeders in 2013, near Saint-Nectaire (Puy-de-Dôme). Very quickly, the three partners chose to transform their milk and to make saint-nectaire farmer.

"Before, we did not control the price of milk.We were lucky to be in a PDO zone, for us it was obvious," he says.

Saint-nectaire PDO, which sits prominently on the starred tables, is made according to environmentally friendly practices, meeting strict specifications.

The milk of farmers in this area - located in Cantal and Puy-de-Dôme - is better paid than that of other producers. From 32 cents a decade ago, it is now sold from 40 to 45 cents per liter.

Near the imposing wooden building that houses the barn, milking parlor and manufacturing workshop, Mr. Massoulier built a shop to organize free tours with tasting. "It's important to show people how we work, to share our farming profession, to value our work and our product."

The key, a "lightning" growth: its turnover is growing by 30% per year, 19,000 visitors were welcomed in 2018.

At the national level 14,155 tons were marketed in 2018, against 13,072 in 2010, notes Marie-Paule Chazal, director of the interprofession AOP Saint-Nectaire.

- Request for proximity -

Another market opened: every month, the breeder goes to deliver farmers' stores, without intermediary with the buyer, in Brittany and in Midi-Pyrénées.

"There is today a strong demand for proximity," he notes. In addition to his two partners, six employees work on the farm full time.

His next challenge? Have your own ripening cellar to master cheese production from A to Z. And more hires to come.

"It's a product that works with tourism," says Chazal.

The summer season in Auvergne has benefited from the inclusion of the Chaîne des Puys on the Unesco World Heritage list, while episodes of heat wave have pushed tourists to mountain regions. Result: some producers could not cope with the demands, like Nicolas Guittard, producer in Saint-Genès-Champespe (Puy-de-Dôme), who had to install in August a sign "saint -nectaire out of stock "in front of his farm.

"Since 5, 6 years, it is recurrent.It is a product that goes up in notoriety and range but the period of ripening is short (28 days) and it is difficult to stock," says the breeder of 80 dairy cows, who also sell their cheese in dairies and supermarkets.

Saint-nectaire AOP represents 2,000 direct jobs and nearly 500 farms.

But the profession is aging: in 30% of farms, the youngest farmer is over 55 years old. "It will take about 50 new installations by 2025 to ensure production," says Ms. Chazal.

The sector therefore needs arms and launched a recruitment campaign at the top of the cattle farm of Cournon d'Auvergne (Puy-de-Dôme), after touring agricultural establishments.

Interviews are organized between potential candidates and operators. Virtual reality headsets even allow you to visit a farm that produces Saint-Nectaire.

Cheese technician, responsible for the grasslands, dairy workshop manager, refiner: about forty salaried jobs are to be filled at the show, in addition to the fifty or so new installations that will be needed to support the production.

© 2019 AFP