London (AFP)

Flowing clothes, more "green" stylists and bright colors in a lead-time period at Brexit: five things to remember from London Fashion Week, dedicated to the spring-summer 2020 collections, which ends Tuesday.

An unhindered body

For the spring-summer 2020 season, the woman will be free to move, as Victoria Beckham whose collection had the words "freedom", "lightness" and "simplicity".

No skinny mini skirts like at the time Spice Girls, but long flowing and sensual dresses and a spirit "seventies".

The wide trouser suit and plunging neckline is another must of the season.

Smile on the gender side also in the Irish Sharon Wauchob with long feathered dresses or in the Fyodor Golan duo who explored the concept of "pansexuality - attraction to a person regardless of gender identity".

Fashion Week's must-have looks include voluminous yet ethereal creations by rising star of British fashion, Molly Goddard, and the geometric and moving dresses of Serbian Roksanda, whose architectural studies have left their mark.

Powdered pink and bright green

A moral blow? Go see Roksanda. The Serbian excels in the choice of colors, and her combinations of pink and tangerine exploded against a background of gray London sky on Monday.

At Molly Goddard, there is yellow chick, bleach and several shades of pink, her favorite color and that of the tulle dress worn by Villanelle, the killer in the television series "Killing Eve" which has boosted the popularity of the English designer.

The Turkish Bora Aksu was inspired by the vibrant color palette of Colombian artist Maria Berrio with particularly bright combinations of pink and orange.

As for Victoria Beckham, she surprised with a flamboyant purple and bright green, one of the colors of the season.

On the print side, the most extravagant are Pam Hogg, a figure of punk-rock culture, and her tight-fitting combinations with multicolored prints of ... poodles, the Scottish inspired canine contests.

More "green" stylists

Called by the ecologist movement Extinction Rebellion, which organized several actions during Fashion Week, designers are increasingly showing their environmental concerns.

Roland Mouret, French installed for years in the United Kingdom, believes that "the tendencies" and their consumerist side "are dying". What counts now is the "style".

He is supporting Arch and Hook, a manufacturer of hangers that has created hangers made from plastic collected in the seas and oceans and recycled.

Young designers are particularly at the forefront of "upcycling", which consists of giving a second life to clothes or accessories. Ancuta Sarca, 27, of Romania, designs hybrid shoes, blends of sneakers and pumps from used clothing stores.

Mariah Esa, 22, just graduated, creates colorful outfits by assembling clothes labels thrown by a clothing brand - up to 2,000 to make a coat.

Their creations were presented in an exhibition on the "positive fashion", that is to say more ethical and more sustainable, a subject that wants to highlight the British Fashion Council (BFC), which represents the fashion industry British.

Open to the public

For the first time, London Fashion Week opened to the public, for six parades that were specially reserved for him, and only the time of the weekend.

For at least 135 pounds (150 euros), or 245 for the pack "VIP", fashionistas could attend the parades of Alexa Chung, famous "It-girl" British (model, columnist, TV presenter, user of Instagram. ..), or House of Holland, English designer Henry Holland, and Self-portrait.

Last fashion week before Brexit?

The very international fashion industry overwhelmingly voted against Brexit in June 2016, and BFC again called for avoiding an exit without EU approval, which could result in customs controls. increased and a more complicated movement of people.

If the country were to pass on November 1 to the rules of the World Trade Organization (WTO), it would cost the fashion industry between 850 and 900 million pounds sterling (between 950 million and 1 billion euros) , according to a study by the British Association for Fashion and Textiles dating from 2018.

© 2019 AFP