London (AFP)
Victoria Beckham's long and flowing dresses with Molly Goddard's tulle creations: a look back at a few highlights this weekend at London Fashion Week, dedicated to the spring / summer 2020 collections, which will end on Tuesday.
Volume and still volume at Molly Goddard
Her dress in sweet pink tulle worn by Villanelle, the killer and "fashion victim" in the British-American series "Killing Eve", had leaked a lot of ink.
Fans of the steamy creations of the British Molly Goddard were not disappointed with her collection presented Saturday in the art deco decor of a London gym.
Voluminous but aerial skirts and dresses, in yellow chick, coral or bleach blue, worn with leather boots with flat heels.
Large romantic red ribbons are added to the shoulders of a pink knit, worn on a black dress with floral print.
After the parade, the Englishwoman confesses not to have had a specific theme in mind but to be interested in "individual looks".
"I've looked at the things I've done in the last five years, which I've loved the most, and I've done them again and again, bigger and better."
Simple and elegant at Victoria Beckham
Long silky pink or purple dresses, pie sheath shirts worn with a houndstooth jacket and straight pants for a "seventies" look: Victoria Beckham played the chic and simple card for her parade organized in a majestic Foreign Office courtyard in Whitehall.
His slogans: "lightness", "freedom" and "simplicity".
She was supported by the entire Beckham family - her husband David Beckham, the former Manchester United icon player, and their four children, Brooklyn, Romeo, Cruz and Harper, seated in the front row alongside the High Priestess Anna Wintour Fashion.
A parade disturbed by the demonstration of about twenty activists of the ecologist movement Extinction Rebellion who protested outside the Foreign Office, denouncing consumerism and the impact of the fashion industry on the environment.
Androgynous silhouette at Sharon Wauchob
Silky dresses with feathers or loose suits, the creations of the Irish can be worn by men as by women, a fluidity with which likes to play the stylist. "I always liked the androgynous look," she says after the parade in a church in the upscale neighborhood of Marylebone. Actor and singer Billy Porter, whose Oscar-winning outfit, mid-tuxedo, mid-dress, made a splash, did not make a mistake, in the front row to admire the parade.
"Fashion is a matter of diversity and inclusion", he slips to AFP behind the scenes, saying for his part "want to be the image that I did not see child, that of a man black queer ".
Hybrid identities at Fyodor Golan
The stylist duo Fyodor Golan also performed a daring mix of genres, inspired by both Gérard Corbiau's "Farinelli" and Milos Forman's "Amadeus" and Queen Marie-Antoinette's films.
Fusing contrasts, Fyodor Podgorny and Golan Frydman mix lace with heavy metal t-shirts and combine denim with more fragile materials like satin or tulle.
"We explored the idea of pansexuality - the attraction to a person regardless of gender identity," says the duo. Another inspiration is the bedroom: a duvet becomes a cape and a pillow a purse.
Models wear wide pajamas or psychedelic leggings while reworked nightgowns become evening gowns.
A style rather than a trend for Roland Mouret
Concerned about the environment and the climate crisis, Roland Mouret, a Frenchman who has been living in the United Kingdom for years, believes that "trends are dying". What counts now is the "style".
"We do not want to know what will be the trend of the season because it is synonymous with consumerism," he explained after his parade, which was organized in the poetic decor of the garden of the Royal Academy Arts. "To customers, with their personality, to make clothes live, we want people to use their own styles," says the designer, whose creations can be worn by men or women and cut from 36 to 50.
About style, Roland Mouret was inspired by New York in the 1980s when the city was on the verge of bankruptcy, a moment of crisis conducive to reinvention.
Side palette, pastel colors, mauve, pale blue, beige for fluid dresses arriving mid calves or wide pantsuits. Skirts or asymmetrical long dresses in blue sequin are slit at the front for more fluidity.
© 2019 AFP