London (AFP)

Succeeding in New York, the London Fashion Week Spring / Summer 2020 begins Friday, 48 days from the expected date of Brexit, a divorce to which the British fashion industry is fiercely opposed.

According to a survey by fashion consultancy Fashion Roundtable, 96% of professionals in the UK sector voted to stay in the European fold in the June 2016 referendum, notably for fear of increased customs formalities and hardened rules on circulation. people. And since then, their fears have not been appeased, quite the contrary.

The British Fashion Council (BFC), representing the industry, is pleading for "avoidance" of an exit without EU approval on 31 October, a scenario openly envisioned by conservative Prime Minister Boris Johnson.

If the country were to pass on November 1 to the rules of the World Trade Organization (WTO), it would cost the fashion industry between 850 and 900 million pounds sterling (between 950 million and 1 billion euros) , according to a study by the British Association for Fashion and Textiles dating from 2018.

The British fashion industry brings 32 billion pounds (35 billion euros) to the country's economy and employs nearly 900,000 people.

"It's almost as much as the financial sector," BFC said in a statement in early September, urging the government to seek an agreement with the EU "that ensures healthy and steady growth of the fashion industry" .

In this rather dark context, Molly Goddard should put a little fantasy Saturday. This Londoner graduated from the prestigious Central Saint Martins School made her talk by creating the vaporous pink dress worn by the murderer Villanelle in the British-American television series "Killing Eve".

Other star shows include Victoria Beckham, the former Spice Girl reconverted stylist. Last year, the star of New York podiums presented for the first time in London his creations on the occasion of the ten years of his brand. This year, she launches a line of beauty products.

The Burberry British heavyweight fashion show will be another highlight of Fashion Week on Monday. At the helm, Riccardo Tisci, ex-Givenchy, known for celebrating diversity.

For the new shoots, we will be looking forward to seeing the start of the Fashion East talent incubator parade on Friday, and those of Richard Quinn, the English master of color and print, and Richard Malone of Ireland, on Monday. who finds inspiration in sculpture and advocates sustainable fashion.

- Open (a little) to the public -

New this year: Due to a growing popular craze, London Fashion Week has decided to open to the public during a kind of parallel Fashion Week. From 135 pounds (150 euros), fashionistas can buy a ticket to attend the parades Alexa Chung, famous "It-girl" (model, columnist, TV presenter, Instagrammeuse ...), House of Holland, from English stylist Henry Holland, and participate in panel discussions with members of the industry.

A step towards the general public while the Fashion Weeks have long been more reserved for professionals, with the interference of "influencers" publishing photos of parades on social networks.

However, not everyone is a fan of this week of fashion organized until Tuesday. The ecologist movement Extinction Rebellion even wants to "end it" and plans civil disobedience actions denouncing the environmental impact of "one of the most polluting industries in the world".

This mobilization is due to culminate Tuesday with a "funeral procession" denouncing the deaths linked to climate change that will start in front of the main venue of Fashion Week in central London.

Pressed to do better, the fashion industry is reinventing itself, with designers like the duo VIN + OMI which will present Tuesday a collection including textile pieces made with recycled plastic and even with nettles harvested in the garden of Prince Charles.

CFB is attempting to highlight industry best practices in sustainable development and ethics with an exhibition dedicated to them.

© 2019 AFP