Resistant grape varieties Podcast Podcast
A wind of renewal blows on the German Moselle
Global viticulture is put to the test in the face of climate change. In addition, consumer demand for pesticide-free products is growing. Some growers opt for grape varieties resistant to drought and diseases. Agnieszka Kumor has traveled the vineyards of France and elsewhere. She has met particular German winemakers.
Every year producers, distributors, wine merchants and journalists flock to ProWein in Düsseldorf , Germany. The largest meeting of wine and spirits professionals in the world has attracted more than 61,500 visitors in 2019. The organizers of the show do not intend to stop there, which annoys some journalists, critics of the size taken by the event.
But for others, ProWein is the perfect opportunity to meet producers from distant lands, like Argentina and New Zealand, or closer, like the German Moselle.
The finesse of German Rieslings
The Haag family has been growing their vines for 400 years. The Fritz Haag estate is located in Brauneberg, very close to the Luxembourg border. For Oliver Haag, the owner, the wine is above all a passion: " Our estate is nestled in the heart of the Moselle Valley. The bunches ripen slowly. The style of our rieslings comes from there. They are fresh, light and elegant. And contain very little alcohol. "
Renowned for their finesse, but still little known in France, the German Rieslings are rare grape varieties that benefit from global warming: " The Moselle, which was once a cold region, is winning this new situation. Our wines have never been so balanced, with ripe grapes. They are structured and deep on the one hand, and on the other, they keep freshness. But if we look at the speed at which the climate changes, one day it will be a problem, it is obvious, "says the winemaker of Brauneberg.
Eliminate pesticides from the vines
If more sun contributes to the quality of the Moselle rieslings, their pure and light style at the same time may suffer from drought. The vintages where water is sorely lacking are more and more frequent. Another problem that grape growers face is vine diseases, which are the source of many chemical treatments, says Dieter Hoffmann. At the head of a family estate Hoffmann-Simon , he banned pesticides from his vineyards.
Mushroom-resistant varieties could help him in his fight. Dieter planted a few on a trial basis: " I adapt to climate change by working more in the vineyards. I use green manures to maintain the humus. This upper part of the soil prevents the water from evaporating I opted for some new varieties, like the regent, which I make rosé very fruity. And two years ago, I planted white cabernet. These hybrid grape varieties occupy only a small part of my vineyard. But the result is rather encouraging. "
Métis or hybrid variety?
But what are these hybrids so well known in Germany and still not widespread in France? To find out, we make a detour to Marseille. This is where the last International Rosé Encounter took place on January 22, 2019. Their theme: the challenge of climate change and ecological transition for the production of rosé wines of Provence. We met Loïc Le Cunf, engineer at the French Institute of Vine and Wine : " Variety creation means using the genetic resources of existing individuals, and crossing them naturally, to make them a father and a mother. , to get a grape seed that will grow. The idea is to select among these new individuals, plants that combine the characteristics of dad and mom. The genes for resistance to water stress or diseases of the vine are, of course, determinant.
But all these new plants are not housed in the same boat. A variety from a cross between two Vitis vinifera (the cultivated vine) is a half-breed, while a baby Vitis vinifera and wild vine (American or Asian) becomes a hybrid grape variety. " Over time, resistant varieties will take up a lot of space because they reduce or eliminate the use of pesticides. This characteristic responds to a certain societal pressure of today. I live in a village and have children. The spreading of chemical inputs in the vineyards around the schools, these are the things we think strongly, "admits the engineer.
Back to ProWein in Germany
The German Moselle is not ready to abandon its king variety, Riesling, which has made its glory in favor of new varieties. But in the face of environmental issues, the use of resistant grape varieties could be more and more frequent. On this point, the Germans are one step ahead of the French. The Federal Institute for Variety Research JKI Geilweilerhof and the Weinsberg plant have been working there for more than 85 years!
The exhibition ProWein in Düsseldor attracts professionals from all over the world.
RFI / Agnieszka KumorThe German Moselle stand at ProWein.
RFI / Agnieszka KumorOliver Haag, CEO of the Fritz Haag estate.
RFI / Agnieszka KumorThe soils of the Moselle vineyard are made of blue schist.
Weingut Fritz HaagDieter Hoffmann, owner of the Hoffmann-Simon estate.
RFI / Agnieszka KumorChristine Müller, sales director at Schloss Vollrads.
RFI / Agnieszka KumorThe wines of the German Moselle to discover.
RFI / Agnieszka KumorThe wines of Cornelius Dönnhoff, one of the great masters of the Moselle.
RFI / Agnieszka Kumor
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