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There are many unique things in Lanzarote, but perhaps the wine landscape that paints the central area of the island is one of the most striking images. The blue of the sky contrasts with the green of the vineyards and the volcanic terrain. Impossible not to fall in love with such beauty. Alessandra Cavallaro, a 36-year-old Milanese, came to Lanzarote to visit in 2018 and was impressed by the history behind those vineyards.

After the eruption of 1730-1736, lava and volcanic sand covered what was the most fertile part of the island. "The farmers had to adapt the way of farming to those circumstances," explains the Italian sommelier while touring the grounds of the El Grifo winery, the oldest in the Canary Islands. A short time later the vineyard and fruit trees were planted, either by removing the sands, "or by making holes in the lava, known as chabocos". Of all that, there was a shocking and unique landscape like few others, which provides wonderful wines made with the volcanic Malvasia grape.

The easternmost Canary Island of the archipelago has long ceased to be on the radar as a destination only for sun and beach. Its impressive nature, art, gastronomy... They have made it one of the most complete on the national scene. We leave behind La Geria, as the vineyard area is known, and enter the Timanfaya National Park, the closest thing to landing on the moon. It is the only park of the eminently geological national network.

The beautiful volcanic beaches of the island.

By the Taro de Entrada, on the LZ67 road that connects the municipalities of Tinajo and Yaiza, is the access to the visitor center. To avoid the long queues of cars, it is advisable to get up early. The entrance paid at the checkpoint includes the bus tour along the route of the volcanoes, approximately 35 minutes, and parking. The absence of vegetation, the rough and imposing shapes of the rocks and the silhouettes of the volcanoes remind us of the force that nature can exert.

Stopped time

Back on the road, we headed towards the north of the island. Next stop: Teguise, which was the ancient capital of Lanzarote from the first half of the fifteenth century to the second half of the nineteenth century; later it would become Arrecife. Time stops in its cobbled streets where the white buildings -attention to its civil palaces- show a postcard that today includes small shops and flirtatious restaurants. In La Cantina, a historic building renovated and run by a German, we indulge in the typical potatoes with green and red mojo, the smoked cheese of Montaña de Haría grilled and the fish of the day. Do not leave without taking a look at the inner courtyard of the house.

Worker in the vineyards of El Grifo.

The big day of the week is lived on Sundays with the market, when the town becomes a party and a meeting point for locals and foreigners. The most curious visit is found in the Timple Museum, an ode to this curious Canarian instrument.

At this point you want to step on the beach and Famara, six kilometers of paradise, is a must. Above all, for surfers who ride its waves. Many of its streets still unpaved remember that not long ago people walked barefoot through the place. The shops with surfboards coexist with modern hamburgers and restaurants with the best fish in the area. El Risco takes the cake. Of course, it is essential to book in advance because it is always full.

Pools of Paradisus Salinas.

If you are not lucky, you can always go to Costa Famara, just opposite, which has a small terrace with excellent views where you can taste dishes of octopus, squid, scallops or the traditional gofio. From Famara -and from the Mirador del Río- you can see La Graciosa, the eighth island of the Canary Islands, to which it is convenient to dedicate at least one day -the boats depart from Órzola- to enjoy its idyllic beaches and have a rice in front of the sea

The Valley of a Thousand Palm Trees

Before finishing the day, a last stop in Haría, a town that enjoys a special microclimate and is known as the Valley of a Thousand Palm Trees. Do not forget to climb to its spectacular viewpoint. In this town lived the last years of his life César Manrique, the figure that represents the resurgence of Lanzarote, where his house-museum is located. The Canarian artist -who also signs the viewpoint- returned to his land in 1966 with the idea of putting it in value. He did it with an idea of sustainability ahead of his time and with art as a guide, an art that he wanted people to live and not just contemplate.

Boat on the island of La Graciosa.

His vision of a calm and respectful tourism with the environment and the people placed Lanzarote on the map. Thanks to his works, which can be found in many corners of the island, you can understand that connection with nature that obsessed him so much. The first one was Los Jameos del Agua, which together with the Cueva de los Verdes, has its origin in the eruption of the Corona volcano.

In the César Manrique Foundation, in addition to approaching the figure of the artist through photographs -each of them tells a story- and works -ceramics stand out-, a magical space is discovered in which he combined local architecture with modern brushstrokes. The underground part and the gardens are among the most admired spaces of the place, which receives 300,000 visitors a year.

Typical potatoes with green and red mojo picón.

The climate of Lanzarote represents one of its treasures; with an average temperature of 21ºC, life is always a little easier. We head south in search of more beaches. We find them with golden sand and crystal clear waters, such as Papagayo, one of the most famous and crowded on the island. From Playa Blanca it takes about 25 minutes by car on an unpaved road. Playa Del Pozo and Playa Mujeres are other options to consider in the area to take a dip. There are also three excellent scenarios to contemplate the sunset.

Another illustrious name of the island is that of the Portuguese Nobel Prize for Literature José Saramago, who found his particular paradise here. Today, his house-museum shows the abode of this universal and committed writer who said that his "library was not born to keep books, but to welcome people." Well, it's time to put it into practice.

The Jameos del Agua.

Saramago and Manrique take us to the beginning of the trip, to the El Grifo winery, with which they had a great personal bond. To commemorate the centenary of the Portuguese writer, a few months ago they launched the Saramago 100 wine; Manrique, who designed the labels of the winery, whenever he exhibited outside the island took wines from his land. That one that today has him more present than ever.

A NEW LUXURY LANDS IN COSTA TEGUISE

The hotel offer of Lanzarote grows and transforms, as is the case of the iconic Hotel Las Salinas that now reopens with the Paradisus by Melia brand as an Adults Only all included. This oasis designed by Fernando Higueras and in which César Manrique collaborated returns with the idea of offering an immersive experience in local culture and history. The building stands out on the coast with that succession of geometric shapes, stepped terraces and skylights infiltrated by nature.

The new project, which will open its doors on June 30 – reservations can already be made – has 282 rooms in total, of which 86 are suites, and 10 villas The Reserve, the jewel of the place. The experience in these includes a series of exclusive services to customers such as visits to places on the island, gastronomic proposals, wellness treatments or access to a private pool. It also has a concierge service that will be aware of all the details during the stay.

All bookings from three nights include a visit to two tourist spots on the island. For The Reserve guests, a special guided experience or activity is added. The spa and beauty center of the hotel is the perfect place to connect with the environment and disconnect from the noise thanks, again, to the universe of César Manrique.

View of the new Paradisus Salinas.

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