• Beauty The cosmetologist who teaches us to feed and not make up the skin
  • Cosmetics This is the easiest beauty routine to keep the skin cared for

What do Peru's indigenous tribes have in common with Princess of Wales Kate Middleton, pop singer Madonna, former U.S. first lady Michelle Obama and Queen Letizia? According to foreign media such as Corriere della Sera and the Mexican edition of Vogue, the use of a plant from the Amazon rainforest rich in active ingredients, Acmella oleracea. While the natives would use it as an analgesic for toothache, these news tell, celebrities would instead use it as a substitute for Botox injections to fight wrinkles and smooth the skin.

The Princess of Wales, Kate Middleton.Gtres

A "natural butolinic toxin" that would function as your best-kept beauty secret. Moreover, these publications even claim that it would have been the British princess herself who revealed the effectiveness of a cosmetic that precisely contains a natural anti-aging substance extracted from the plant to Mrs. Obama, says her makeup artist in these media.

WHAT SCIENCE SAYS

Appearance of the plant Acmella oleracea Shutterstock

To those who have some knowledge in cosmetics will sound the Acmella oleracea, active ingredient in some beauty products such as creams and serums. Now, to what extent can a plant inhibit the contractile activity of the subcutaneous muscles of the face, thus relaxing the facial features? What do the studies say? Does it differ much from the classic Botox injected in aesthetic medical treatments?

Scientific publications speak of its antioxidant and anti-inflammatory effects as potential treatments for the prevention of diseases related to oxidative stress. "Used to treat toothache in Malaysia, it contains several active metabolites responsible for its anti-inflammatory, antiseptic and anesthetic bioactivities," a study states.

Regarding its "anti-wrinkle action", another publication that analyzes the formulation of a serum with Acmella oleracea extract and its effectiveness on skins demonstrated a remarkable reduction/improvement in all parameters measured after only two weeks of the application of the serum. It indicates its quick and beneficial effects on the fine lines and wrinkles of the face.

However, Dr. Mar Mira, co-director of the Mira+Cueto Clinic, asserts that the effects of this plant cannot be compared with those of neuromodulatory infiltrations. "The active ingredient of Acmella oleracea is called Espilantol and is the one applied in cosmetics with tightening effects." In addition to that 'tug' that occurs in the skin, he explains, it also has anti-inflammatory, moisturizing and antioxidant properties... Its cosmetic use can be beneficial for our skin, "but it does not have medical properties, so intraepidermal results will never be achieved as we do with infiltrations," he says.

Of course, this plant active ingredient is very fashionable in beauty and 'promises' results such as neuromodulatory infiltrations but, insists Dr. Mira, "cosmetics and medicine are not the same, so the results cannot be either".

THE POSSIBILITIES OF THE ASSET

A bottle enclosing Acmella oleracea extract that is attributed anti-wrinkle properties. Shutterstock

We contacted Ashes To Life, a Spanish cosmetic firm of certified organic products, as they use extracts of this plant in their products. Margarita Arjona, its head of communication, assures that they have consulted numerous studies, most of them in Portuguese, which reveal interesting properties, such as the inclusion of phytocannabinoids, which are not exclusive to the Cannabis sativa plant, so in vogue today in cosmetics and even in the Stock Exchange. "In Brazil, especially Jambú flowers, they are used to relieve pain, but different properties have been discovered such as muscle relaxation."

In fact, this beauty expert ventures to predict that large laboratories will surely bet on including it in their formulations. "It is an asset that still has many possibilities both in cosmetics and in phytotherapy applied to medicine."

Its topical tightening effect is obviously not miraculous. "But it is a natural alternative to botulinum toxin, of which we all know its pros and cons," he continues. It refers to possible headaches after treatment as a side effect, its duration of about four months for a price of about 400 euros, the loss of natural expression when paralyzing the muscle and adverse circumstances if injected badly, such as eyebrows or mismatched smile.

THIS IS HOW THE ASSET IS ACHIEVED

Former first lady Michelle Obama would use these cosmetics advised by Middleton, according to the foreign press. Gtres

How does Ashes To Life include Acmella oily extract and enclose it in a bottle? "It is obtained from the buds of the flowers of the plant. It grows wild in tropical and subtropical regions around the world, particularly in northern Brazil."

It was first discovered in Peru by a researcher at the University of Cambridge, anthropologist Françoise Barbira Freedman. The BBC and the Wall Street Journal tell of his sympathetic story with a wisdom toothache, at which point he bit her and thus experienced its analgesic effect. "The compound obtained by maceration is rich in Spilanthol, a very versatile bioactive substance that adds great value to the formulations of organic cosmetic products," says Arjona. It is used to treat the signs of aging: "When it acts synergistically with other active ingredients," he says.

The Spanish cream of Ashes To Life that carries the active ingredient in question. EM

Antonia Álvaro, founder and CEO of the brand Sublime Oils, 100% natural essential oils, is also very knowledgeable about the plant and its active ingredient, which is patented in the United States. " The Spilanthol contained in Acmella Oleracea extract inhibits contractions in the subcutaneous muscles, especially of the face. The patent relates to the use of pure Spilanthol for both topical and subcutaneous use."

According to this beauty specialist, it could become an effective Botox like treatment but only if it continues to be investigated. "It has nothing to do with the craze of prickly pear oil, for example, which is given properties similar to the effect of Botox when they don't have them, in the sense that they are false advertising claims."

A SUBSTITUTE FOR BOTOX?

Queen Letizia has turned to aesthetic medicine to rejuvenate her face. Gtres

From his point of view, to be able to talk about the so-called botox like effect [similar to Botox but topically and without injections] more science is needed. "The extract of this plant has other properties that, in synergy of course, can improve wrinkles, texture, firmness and appearance of the skin."

But this does not mean that it is due to the inhibition of subcutaneous contractions, he clarifies. "For this it is necessary to use the active ingredient pure Spilanthol at a certain concentration and in a very effective formula."

Marta García-Legaz, dermatologist and disseminator at the Ricart Medical Institute in Valencia and Madrid, goes further in her criticism, since she starts from the basis that everything that is sold as miraculous is false. "This plant is known to have antioxidant and fibroblast-stimulating properties, that is, firming and tightening effect." It can help delay signs of aging, he notes. "Now, I sincerely doubt it's botox like."

Of course, the moment someone celebrity uses it and this is communicated it can become fashionable, he continues: "And that leaves a lot to be desired, because as long as there are no studies that really demonstrate solid and conclusive scientific evidence it cannot be demonstrated."

However, and with these antioxidant properties that do appear already evidenced, it may be interesting, says Dr. "Some antiaging role and collagen-stimulating properties, hence the lifting effect helping to improve the appearance of the skin and moderately delay the signs of aging." As topical alternatives, however, he believes there are more effective actives. "Retinol, the star molecule for dermatologists, is a powerful epidermal renewor. It leaves the skin with a smoother appearance, improving imperfections, providing shine for its depigmenting effect against spots and sebum-regulator, improving acne and rosacea", describes García-Legaz. That is, they share their anti-aging and collagen-stimulating power that decreases those fine wrinkles.

Another ingredient to consider is vitamin C, a powerful antioxidant. "It helps us prevent the signs of aging and the formation of free radicals produced by sun exposure." Both active ingredients, according to the dermatologist, "have stronger evidence and more years of use that demonstrate their benefits."

  • Kate Middleton
  • beauty
  • HBPR

According to The Trust Project criteria

Learn more