Gastronomy Two Spanish cities, among the best eaten in all of Europe
Getaways These are the 10 most romantic towns in Spain
Here is a different wine route.
The tastings are not lacking, of course.
Nor the walks between vineyards or
century-old oak barrels
.
But neither is it a snow day (or those that are necessary) with skiing
, snowshoeing
,
cheese
fondues and
tobogganing
.
Or what is the same, that fun descent with nocturnality (and some treachery) on a wooden sled down an illuminated track.
And all without leaving Huesca.
From the Somontano wine region, in the geographical center of the province, to the Formigal station.
From the medieval town of Alquézar to
Sallent de Gállego
or Lanuza, the reborn village on the shores of the homonymous swamp.
And in between, what has been said: pairing of wine and snow with the Aragonese Pyrenees looming in the background.
The itinerary starts in
one of the most avant-garde wineries in Spain,
Sommos
, built in 2015 on the outskirts of Barbastro, the capital of the aforementioned region.
It is not necessary to be very sharp to intuit the
correlation between the names,
but the first responds, in addition, "to that idea of belonging to a site, of being from here and being proud," says Diego Mur, head of Marketing.
And the two "m"?
There is also an explanation, since it is the silhouette that draws the mountain that protects the place.
Hence the
design of the building
, a prism formed by symmetrical cubes of glass and steel integrated into the environment.
Not for nothing is it the second of
the 10 architectural wonders of the world of wine
internationally, only behind that of Artesa, in the Californian Napa Valley.
The barrel room of the winery.I.
GARCIA
And no, it is not the work of any star architect such as Frank Ghery, Zaha Hadid or
Rem Koolhaas,
but by
Jesús Marino Pascual from La Rioja,
who opted for an underground bioclimatic construction, whose 27-meter-high production hall
uses gravity
to the movement of grapes from one tank to another.
"In this way, they are not handled roughly and violently, but delicately, as they fall under their own weight," adds Juan José Echandi, Sommos winemaker.
The journey continues in the
355 hectares of their own vineyards
, which can be explored in a thousand different ways: on foot, by Segway, on horseback, by electric bike... Even through an Escape Room game to find the elixir of life.
Main building of the Sommos winery, in Barbastro.SOMMOS
Among the grape varieties, there are Pinot Noir,
Merlot, Syrah, Chardonnay or Gewürztraminer
.
Even Tempranillo.
His thing is to discover the exclusive (and award-winning) wines in a picnic at the foot of the vine accompanied by Iberian sausages from the area and
artisan cheeses
made from goat's or sheep's milk from the Sierra de Guara.
The same delicacies can be tasted in the winery's restaurant, with views of the vineyards, along with others such as the grilled T-bone steak matured for 22 days, the duck
confit cannelloni
or the pularda cooked at low temperature.
Restaurant and vineyards of the Barbastro winery. SOMMOS
It's time to get to know Barbastro, the capital of the region, with obligatory stops at the
Plaza del Mercado
, the cathedral (ex-mosque), the Diocesan Museum, the ice well or the Frutería del Vero, a classic that combines a restaurant, bar, winery, cave and
delicatessen
shop
(watch out for
Barbastro's pink tomato
or pâtés) in an old chocolate factory.
You should also visit the
Biarritz Albás pastry shop,
home of the mythical cake of the same name.
Next stop:
L'Usuella restaurant
, where
chef Jorge Zanuy
He proposes pairing different Sommos with his Aragonese signature cuisine inherited from his great-great-grandparents, whose photos decorate the walls of the cozy local with exposed stone walls.
He adds an
oriental touch
and changes the menu every day "according to what is on the market".
Some surprises: scallops with Japanese Ponzu sauce, tuna tataki with trout roe or sweet rice with squid.
View of the town of Barbastro.HUESCA LA MAGIA
Somontano offers much more, such as a visit to Alquézar, one of the most beautiful medieval towns in Spain;
a
hiking route
along the footbridges of the Vero river and another for canyoning in the Sierra y
Cañones de Guara Natural Park,
the best place in Europe to practice this sport.
It is time to head to
Formigal
, which, together with Panticosa, is one of the four resorts of the Aramón Group, the largest ski area in Spain.
In the 182 kilometers of slopes distributed throughout the
Tena Valley,
you can do the
tobogganing
that we already talked about or
ski-ratrack
, an activity in which a piste-piste machine with a cable acting as a ski lift leads to lonely places that the chair lifts do not reach.
Ski-ratrack session in the snow.ARAMÓN
We do not forget the wine or
Sommos,
since it is the official winery of Aramón, so it can be enjoyed throughout Formigal, from the
après-ski
from Marchica to
Las Mugas
, the exclusive igloos at 1,800 meters above sea level with views of the Pyrenees and the stars.
There are only six (plus one general) and you can get there by Ratrack machine or skiing.
The collection is at 5:30 p.m. to enjoy the sunset from inside,
in the purest Nordic style
with cozy wooden furniture, elegant checkered blankets and even
mini-sledges on display
.
Calm down, no, it's not cold.
Quite the opposite.
Interior of one of the igloos of Las Mugas.ARAMÓN
Dinner takes place in the main igloo, which serves as a restaurant with a tasting menu with
Km0 products
(that smoked trout, that stuffed lamb, that apple
crumble
with cheese ice cream...) washed down with a
Sommos Merlot Collection
first and a Chardonnay later.
The next morning, after breakfast, there is a walk with snowshoes.
The only thing left would be to know the charming surrounding towns.
Like Sallent de Gállego, with his bucolic image from a fairy tale.
Not surprisingly, there is a route starring
witches, sorcerers, nymphs and other beings
linked to the municipality since ancient times, those in which covens and the burning of supposed ladies with brooms on their backs were the order of the day.
For this reason, the Fair of Witches, Myths and Legends
of Valle de Tena
is held here every year .
Exterior of one of the igloos of Formigal.I.
GARCIA
This peculiar wine route ends in Lanuza, the idyllic village of
stone and slate mansions
that almost disappeared under the waters of the swamp that began to be built on its banks in 1975. This is what they thought was going to happen and for That's why its inhabitants had to leave the place.
But
the overflow never came
, so 50 years later and after having to buy back their properties, here they are again, fighting to maintain one of the most beautiful mountain villages in Spain.
The snowy town of Sallent de Gállego.I.
GARCIA
PRACTICAL GUIDE
HOW TO GET
The AVE arrives in Huesca, Lérida or Zaragoza.
From there, you have to go to the region of Somontano and Formigal.
WHERE TO SLEEP
Hotel San Ramon del Somontano
.
Historical modernist-style building in Barbastro with 18 rooms, restaurant and private spa.
From 150 euros (www.hotelsanramonsomontano.com).
The Mugas
.
Set of six igloos at an altitude of 1,800 meters in the Formigal station.
Night with dinner, breakfast and snowshoes for 435 euros for two (www.formigal-panticosa.com and www.aramon.com)
WHERE TO EAT
We are winery.
Its restaurant offers signature cuisine paired with its wines.
Located on the outskirts of Barbastro, the winery offers guided tours, wine tourism experiences and tastings (bodegasommos.com).
L'Usuella
.
Cozy Aragonese cuisine restaurant with oriental touches and local products.
MORE INFORMATION.
At www.dosomontano.com
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