China News Agency, Tianjin, February 21st, title: "Dragon raises its head" on February 2, you have to taste "fried dragon Lin"
Author Wang Zaiyu Wang Junyan
In the old custom, the second day of the second month of the lunar calendar is the day when the dragon raises its head.
In addition to shaving their hair, Tianjin people also pay attention to "fried stews" on this day.
"The silver-white stewed slices are lined up like dragon scales, and they are fried into golden yellow. According to the folklore, this means punishment for the 'lazy dragon'. I hope it will get up as soon as possible and bless the harvest." Tianjin folklore expert and columnist Introduced by National Day.
Braised dumplings are a northern specialty snack. The raw materials and tastes of braised dumplings are different in different regions.
Tianjin Braised Pork is made of very fine mung bean starch, which has a unique taste; after frying, the oil is translucent, the outside is burnt and the inside is tender, and then it is poured with sesame sauce, garlic paste, chili oil and other accessories while it is hot, and it is blown on one with a bamboo stick. Put it in your mouth, and you will have endless aftertastes.
"The cakes eaten on February 2 are also called dragon scale cakes, which means to protect the body of the dragon. While eating braised dumplings and pancakes, 'Weizuizi' also eat light dishes such as scrambled eggs, fried bean sprouts, and mixed spring spinach. It is very beneficial to eliminate the oil accumulated during the Spring Festival." You Guoqing said.
On the eve of February 2, Xin Moting, the fourth-generation inheritor of the intangible cultural heritage project of "Xinji" stew making technique, was busy preparing for the pre-procedure work of making stew.
"This is the family's ancestral 'introduction', commonly known as 'old root'." As he spoke, Master Xin scooped out the "exclusive secret recipe" for making braised dumplings with a small wooden spoon, poured it into the pre-treated mung bean starch slurry, and stirred evenly After standing for a period of time, the raw materials for making stew are ready.
Afterwards, Master Xin slowly poured the raw materials prepared in advance into a large iron pot that was heated to 80°C.
The firewood was crackling in the stove, and Master Xin was stirring slowly in the hot iron pot with a long-handled wooden spoon.
"Even if I'm blindfolded right now, as long as I hold the wooden spoon in the pot with both hands, I can make this stew just by feeling the strength in my hands."
Master Xin's hands sometimes stirred, sometimes scooped up the raw materials, and the fragrance of mung beans slowly emerged from the large iron pot along with the steam.
After a while, the "braised sub" in the pot became more and more viscous.
"You can put them in bowls now." As he said that, Master Xin put the porcelain bowls in a pile, and put out the steaming "steamed rice" in the pot bowl by bowl, and put them on the long table Let cool and solidify.
This craft has been passed down to the fifth generation of his daughter.
In Master Xin’s mind, it’s not difficult to make stews, but it’s all about persistence. “When I’m busy, I have to work about 18 hours a day, but when I think that the centuries-old craftsmanship passed down by my ancestors can’t be broken here, I will continue to persevere.” .
In the early morning, Fu Wenfeng and his wife, who run the "Fu Ji Braised Zi" shop, got busy early.
Before 8:30, many diners had already gathered in front of the store.
"There's no trick. It's been more than 20 years, and you will get used to it." Fu Wenfeng is not good at talking, but the work in his hands is neat.
Mung bean stew is cut into small square pieces and put into the frying pan, with bursts of oily aroma.
The golden crispy skin is fried, and the stew turns from white to translucent. It can be put into a bowl, add garlic juice, chili oil, and pour a spoonful of thick "secret sesame sauce". It tastes crispy on the outside and soft on the inside. , the mouth is full of the aroma of sesame paste.
"When I was young, I always looked forward to eating braised dumplings on February 2 every year." Zhang Cong, a diner, has studied and worked in the United States for many years, and this restaurant is listed as a must-choice for her "check-in" food when she returns home.
"I have been away from Tianjin for so many years, but I still miss the mouth of my hometown."
With the changes of the times, as a traditional snack, stews have gradually got rid of the "constraints" of festivals. Spicy stews, special sesame sauce stews, and "mash-and-match" stews with various late-night delicacies allow diners from all walks of life to enjoy it at any time. You can have a bite.
Nowadays, the legend of punishing the "lazy dragon" is rarely mentioned, but a folktale can be turned into people's emotions and memories of the land under their feet.
When the spring is warm and the flowers are blooming, the diners look back and see that the faint burnt fragrance is still floating in the sea of people and lights.
(over)