, Jiangmen, January 24th, title: The "New Year's Dinner" of Taishan people in Guangdong: praying for the New Year

  Author Li Xiaochun Guo Jun

  For the Chinese, the Spring Festival is the most solemn festival of the year, and what everyone looks forward to the most and has the strongest sense of ceremony should be the New Year’s Eve dinner, also known as the New Year’s Eve dinner in Guangdong.

As for the reunion dinner, from the beginning of the first month of the lunar calendar, Taishan people will choose a day to hold the "New Year" sacrificial ceremony and eat "New Year dinner" to pray for the start of the new year.

Eating lettuce with oyster sauce at the New Year's Eve dinner means "good deeds make money".

Photo by Li Xiaochun

  In Lingnan culture, fasting is eaten on the first day of the first month, and New Year’s dinner is eaten on the second day of the first month. There is a folk saying "cook early, eat early, get rich early".

Chicken, goose, fish, bean curd sticks, trotters, trotters, dried oysters, lettuce, mushrooms and other ingredients in the delicacies are respectively endowed with auspiciousness, grand ambitions, surplus every year, abundance, success, benefits, and good market. , make money, have children and other good intentions.

Eating white-cut capon for New Year's dinner means "good luck".

Photo by Li Xiaochun

  "In the past, in rural areas, every household basically chose the second day of the first lunar month to 'start the new year'. People of the older generation said that after eating the New Year's dinner, there are no taboos. You can visit relatives and friends, start work and do things." January 22, now living Mr. Zhen, a "post-70s" native of Taishan in Washington, USA, expressed New Year greetings to relatives and friends in Taishan through a WeChat video. Cooking food, worshiping gods and ancestors, and praying for blessings, the sound of firecrackers came and went, which was very lively.

Roast goose, barbecued pork, roast pork and other siu mei are some of the best-selling delicacies in the New Year's dinner in Taishan restaurants.

Photo by Li Xiaochun

  "As the saying goes, 'there are brothers when you are young, and how many people you live in when you are old'. In rural areas, after getting married, those who can afford to live separately, but brothers generally live close together. Grandpas and grandmas are eating reunion dinners and New Year's dinners. During those two days, I will take turns to sit at my son’s house, share delicacies, and distribute lucky money or red seees to the grandchildren.” Grandma Li, who is over 80 years old in Sijiu Town, Taishan, said: “The children and grandchildren have their own blessings. "She believes that having a full house of children and grandchildren is more important than anything else.

  "We have always chosen to 'open the new year' at our home in Chixixu on the first day of the first lunar month, but the 'opening new year' ceremony is simple, only using the traditional 'three animals' (chicken, pork, fish) to worship gods and ancestors, without cooking Mr. Zhong, a "post-80s" citizen of Taishan, said that starting from his father's generation, his family simplified the "New Year's Eve" ceremony, and the dishes of the "New Year's Eve Meal" have changed from the traditional "nine bowls" to "what do the family like to eat?" , cook whatever you want."

Eating steamed sea fish at the New Year's Eve dinner means "more than every year".

Photo by Li Xiaochun

  In recent years, with the continuous improvement of people's living standards, many citizens have set the location of "New Year's Eve dinner" in teahouses and restaurants near their homes. They no longer need their elders to work hard to prepare and cook dishes, allowing them to spend more time sharing family relationships. At the same time, it brought prosperity to the local catering industry.

During the Spring Festival, there are a lot of customers at the roasted pig stall of Huang Dada, the master chef of Wuxu Town, Sijiu Town, Taishan. Roasted pig is the first choice for local people to start the New Year.

Photo by Li Xiaochun

  On the second day of the first lunar month, the restaurants in Taishan and Taicheng welcomed the first batch of diners to eat New Year's dinner after the opening of the Spring Festival.

"Our guest rooms, halls and peripheral tables are fully booked today." On January 23, Huang Yantao, an employee of Lexing Restaurant in Taicheng, Taishan, introduced that the restaurant not only has traditional dishes with good meanings and a variety of seafood, but also Poon choi series and "sashimi" platters have been launched for diners to choose from.

  "In recent years, on the second day of the first lunar month, my mother arranged a 'New Year's dinner' in the restaurant, and everyone gathered there that day to celebrate the New Year with each other." "Post-90s" Taishan citizen Xu Zhumei revealed that before "going to the village" (Taishan dialect, meaning the same New Year's greetings) need to stay at relatives' house for half a day or even a day before leaving, but now you can just go to sit and do a ceremony.

On the second day of the first lunar month, most of the restaurants in Taishan and Taicheng are very popular, and diners come one after another.

Photo by Li Xiaochun

  In Taishan, many villages still retain the custom of collective "New Year's Eve". Villagers divide labor and cooperate to organize or invite familiar teahouses to send people to the village to cook, and the whole village eats "New Year's Eve dinner" together.

Taishan has the custom of cooking "nine bowls" to worship gods during the New Year and festivals.

Photo by Li Xiaochun

  "Our village's 'New Year's Eve' this year will be held on the third day of junior high school. There are 18 tables. In addition to hiring a chef to cook, the villagers also take care of the purchase and processing of ingredients, arranging tables and stools, and washing dishes (Cantonese) , get it done).” Mr. Zheng from Duanfen Town, Taishan, said that it is rare for the whole village to get together to eat food, and he goes back to participate every year, and catch up with the brothers and sisters in the village by the way.

In recent years, oysters have become one of the first-choice seafood ingredients for Taishan people to cook delicacies during the Spring Festival, implying "oysters are soaring".

Photo by Li Xiaochun

  "After the epidemic has improved, many customers have made appointments to cook at home. Before the Spring Festival this year, the number of times they went to the village or went to the factory to cook group meals increased significantly." On January 19, Wu Shubo, the person in charge of the Huadong Restaurant in Chonglou Town, Taishan, said that this year's Spring Festival, Taishan The first wave of overseas Chinese "returning to their hometowns" has ushered in, and he is ready to bring his team to cook "New Year's dinner" and "favorite dishes" to strive for a steady increase in performance in the new year.


The Chinese New Year Poon Choi has become one of the first choices for Taishan people to start the New Year meal in recent years, which means that the new year will be "full of money".

Photo by Li Xiaochun