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White and fat.

This is how you have to be if you want to be beautiful in the Saharawi refugee camps in

Tindouf

(Algeria), where more than 180,000 people have survived for 47 years in one of the

most forgotten

humanitarian crises in the world.

After centuries and centuries of patriarchal society, the

imposition

to fit in with some ideals of

beauty

is still latent.

But what happens if to comply with these canons you have to threaten your health until you get sick?

This is the situation that the

Sahrawis

are facing today .

"When it is said that a woman is

beautiful

, it is done because she meets the two main requirements: being fat and fair-skinned," explains

Enguia Hafdala,

a Sahrawi woman and a gender specialist at

Médicos del Mundo.

"Here, in the Sahara, there is a saying: when a woman 'wears melfa' -traditional Saharawi clothing- it means that she is

fat

and that the melfa is well on, because the woman is not

thin

, she is the one who wears the melfa and not the other way around", adds Enguia.

Many women who do not fit into the established

canons

decide to resort to practices such as

skin

whitening and

weight gain.

Although this model of beauty has survived since the times when the

Saharawi

population practiced nomadism, and it is also shared by other societies such as

Mauritania

, what has changed in recent years are the methods with which the Saharawis try to achieve this

ideal

. aesthetic.

In search of

fast and effective formulas

, many have started taking chemicals and

drugs

to alter their physical appearance.

And this includes bleaching creams and

drugs

like cortisone and appetite stimulants.

"Through word of mouth and

WhatsApp

groups , many women, especially young women, exchange information about the most effective

products

and the best way to use them," adds

Galia Sidahmed

together with

Binin Mohamed-Salem

and

Mentelner Hanni Esmael,

the three

health

promoters who work to raise awareness of this reality in the

camps

.

Galia Sidahmed.Lucrezia Giordano

Hydroquinone, mercury and clobetasol for whitening

One of the main trends is the so-called '

bombs

', that is, the mixtures of

chemical

products with other natural ones used in the past to gain weight such as date paste, milk and

dromedary

fat ;

or simply different chemicals combined to maximize their effectiveness.

"To whiten the skin, mixtures of

bleaching

creams , hydrogen peroxide for hair and

drugs

are made . For example, three quarters of

cream

with one part of hydrogen peroxide. The whole is left to act on the skin, "explains Galia and the companions of her

According to the data collected by

Médicos del Mundo, the products used by

Sahrawi

women

to whiten their skin contain very

dangerous

substances , such as hydroquinone, mercury and clobetasol, which can cause

permanent

damage to their eyesight, skin

cancer

, damage to their

the central nervous system and the kidneys, as well as

malformations

in the fetus in case of pregnancy.

Lucrezia Giordano

As for the

drugs

they take to gain weight, side effects include stomach irritation, nausea, headaches,

insomnia

or extreme sleepiness, depression and anxiety,

skin

problems , and changes in the menstrual cycle.

The promoters say they have met women who, when mixing different

medications

, "were sleepy but at the same time couldn't sleep and they spent the nights counting the stars," says

Galia

Sidahmed

, supported by

Binin Mohamed-Salem

and

Mentelner

.

They also point to a reduction in

memory

and even frequent

bleeding

.

Social pressure vs health

To compound the

problem

, there is often a lack of knowledge on the subject that leads those who apply these practices not to relate the side effects to the

products

used.

Sometimes, even awareness sessions are not enough to convince

women

not to resort to these methods: it is likely that the social pressure to which they are

subjected

to achieve a certain aesthetic model is stronger than the concern for their

health

, they add.

The ideal of

beauty

has been built in the

Sahara

from a patriarchal perspective and is reproduced in the domestic sphere by women.

Therefore, it is not surprising that the rest of the family are the ones who most insist on complying with that certain

aesthetic canon

.

"When seeing a girl with brown skin or a thin body, the neighbors will ask her relatives if she is

sick

or if they take good care of her, because the

physical

appearance of a young woman is associated with the economic

well

-being of the family ", report the health promoters.

Lucrezia Giordano

However, as Enguia suggests, to blame women for using these practices would be to simplify the

patriarchal

social structure that drives them to pursue this ideal.

In fact, it is possible to argue that Sahrawis are

victims

of aesthetic violence, that is, they suffer social pressure to comply with a certain

prototype

at all costs, even when it poses a

risk

to the

mental

and

physical

health of the person.

In Saharawi society, at a historical moment like the present, marked by a prolonged refuge, the reactivation of

the armed conflict

, the reduction of humanitarian aid and a serious food

crisis

,

marriage

seems to be the most immediate option for young women to become independent. of his family and ensure a

stable

future .

And to get married, again, you have to be fat and white.

On the other hand,

Saharawi

men are not particularly active on the subject of

women's physical

appearance .

Despite the apparent ignorance about the practices that negatively affect the health of their peers, they continue to prefer those that conform to the existing

aesthetic canon

.

"It's as if this idea was naturalized in our mentality. Men think that the beautiful woman is the

obese and white

one, so, although there

are exceptions

, they are generally attracted to those who are like that," highlights Galia Sidahmed.

Responding to

social pressure

affects not only the physical

health

, but also the mental health of women: many of those who do not conform to this model of beauty say they feel "

confused

and

inadequate

" and see the achievement of the Sahrawi aesthetic ideal as the only way way to fully integrate into society.

Build a healthy beauty model

Understanding the ideal of beauty as a public health problem, the

National Union of Saharawi Women

(UNMS), together with organizations such as

Médicos del Mundo,

work with the community to warn about aesthetic violence and promote

healthy

practices , in addition to inviting reflection. on gender mandates.

It is crucial to advance in the

awareness

process , promoting

natural beauty

practices that do not harm health.

But focusing only on these harmful practices, without addressing the socio-cultural structures that lead women to sacrifice their

health

for their appearance, is not

enough

, because it carries the

risk

of not achieving lasting and sustainable change.

*Lucrezia Giordano is a volunteer for the European Union program, through which she supports the NGO Médicos del Mundo as a gender advisor.

According to the criteria of The Trust Project

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