Pataky's panties jump into politics (and they are not the only ones)
Michaela Stark, designer and artist: "I call attention to the parts of the body that we were taught to be ashamed of"
What do global icon
Kim Kardashian
and Colombian Vice President
Francia Márquez have in common?
His enormous fondness for the tracksuit.
More specifically, his fondness for taking it out of context, even if it is in two radically opposite ways.
In the case of Kardashian, the area in which she has been a long, long time (she is the
goddess of Athleisure for a reason)
'transgressing' the norm is fashion.
Already in 2016, she had walked around Paris, to the great
scandal
of aesthetes, with a
lingerie body and
Adidas
tracksuit pants
with open outer sides.
Kim Kardashian loves the tracksuit, but she is not willing to adapt to it, quite the opposite.
In the case of the
Vice President of Colombia,
Francia Márquez, the context was a
meeting
in early November with the
Colombian consul
at the latter's residence in Cairo (Egypt).
Márquez wore a white tracksuit that caused a great scandal in networks and generated a wave of protest messages that not even
Yes is Yes.
It was criticized that it was
inappropriate
for her to attend a meeting of this type dressed in such an informal way and circumscribed to the sphere of sports or the private sphere.
He was reproached for not following the
etiquette of politics
and it was even suggested that by doing so, Márquez was assimilated with other famous Latin American politicians for not taking off his tracksuit or to see the Pope like
Fidel Castro
(who, literally, was seen with the
Francisco
in this way),
Hugo Chaves
or
Nicolás Maduro,
famous for turning this sports garment into a star tool of political propaganda (we already talked about the corduroy jacket at another time).
Although much earlier, it must be said, the icon of world peace
Nelson Mandela had done it.
Why the misplaced tracksuit bothers us so much
Although, as the expert collaborator of Yo Dona
Marina Fernández repeats over and over again,
the protocol is not an immovable rock but rather it adapts to the times, the truth is that to this day it still makes us uncomfortable to see someone who
'is out of tune'
with their way of dressing at an event, because we 'read' the situation in terms of
social empathy.
Dressing according to what is expected, within a range of guidelines, is a show of
respect for the group.
So if you break that guideline, you are disrespectful.
Filmmaker and fashion expert
Katja Eichinger
goes deeper into this thorny subject in his book 'Fashion and other neuroses' (Plankton Press).
"Clothes always have a symbolic component, [...] evident and ambiguous at the same time.
Good taste
is supposed to free us from this ambivalence. It is supposed to guarantee us to be attractive and protect us from ridicule. Good taste wants to set the way we understand things," he writes.
And he recounts one of the first cases we have of
global anger
for introducing a sports garment in a formal situation.
It happened in 1985, when the German
Joschka Fischer,
from the Green party, chose to wear
Nike shoes
to be
sworn
in
as Foreign Minister,
thereby unleashing a wave of national indignation.
Joschka Fischer (in the center), on December 12, 1985, the day he was sworn in as Foreign Minister in sneakers.GETTY IMAGES
"His sports shoes were the symbol of contempt for the previous social order," explains the author.
And she later clarifies: "A
dress code,
etiquette, is always a
symbolic social contract
that has a high emotional charge."
The system, she says, "punishes those who ignore that contract."
Like Francia Márquez, in our case.
And, less harshly, but also,
Maisy Biden,
the granddaughter of the current US president,
Joe Biden.
That she appeared in Madrid in June, at a public event during the NATO summit, together with
Queen Letizia,
in a
sweatshirt
and
espadrilles
, generated multiple headlines.
Much more than the act in question, in fact.
Maisy Biden in Madrid last June, in espadrilles and a sweatshirt, with US First Lady Jill Baiden and Queen Letizia.GETTY IMAGES
The tracksuit of discord and what would hide its comfort
The appearance of Francia Márquez in a tracksuit during her visit to the Colombian consul in Cairo
cannot be compared with that of Joschka Fischer in 1985 to be sworn in as minister in Germany.
The situation is completely different and the historical context too.
In both, there is a
challenge
that in the case of the German was clearly voluntary and in the case of Francia Márquez probably not (which does not minimize it; if it seems pertinent to her to go in a tracksuit to visit consulates, she is already positioning herself ideologically as well).
For those who think that the issue is not such a big deal -because, as Katja Eichinger explains, "fashion is rarely taken seriously and, when it is, it is to pose it as a problem"- it should be noted that the discussion about Márquez's tracksuit It has become
a debate with ideological overtones,
where the attacks received by Márquez from politicians and Internet users have ended up being interpreted in terms of
racism and sexism.
The
tracksuit
would be a garment closely linked to the Colombian
popular classes
, to the lowest paid jobs, such as that of a
domestic worker,
almost always carried out by Afro-
descendant women.
If Márquez was aware of the above, of the 'subversive' of her choice of outfit that day, and following Eichinger, she would have chosen some garments that would fulfill what for the German is the
ideal of women's fashion,
"a fashion that protects from the horror of being misconstrued as victims. As weak and repressible beings."
Come on, I would have chosen it for
empowering.
She has not said anything about it, so we will stay, at least for now, with the desire.
In short, in the end it will turn out that the clothes you decide to wear are not as harmless as they seem.
As Eichinger gathers from
Paola Antonelli,
curator of design and architecture at MoMA in New York,
"fashion,
like design, is
almost always political,
because it concerns our coexistence as a community. It can be something very subtle and, in what regarding the political significance of an article of clothing, it always depends on the context".
The famous context.
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