ON Y VA AVEC LA COUTURE
By MARKUS EBNER, photos by JULIA VON DER HEIDE
September 22, 2022 • Haute couture is freeing itself from its niche.
We brought the current collections to real life in Paris: in the Bois de Boulogne and on the Périphérique.
At Diego Della Valle things are going well again thanks to good designers.
Walter Chiapponi advances Tod's, Gherardo Felloni makes a success of Roger Vivier - and Daniel Roseberry makes Schiaparelli
to the defining brand.
The designer extends Elsa Schiaparelli's extreme design vocabulary and is very good at dealing with superstars like Lady Gaga – as one would expect from Americans.
White leather bustier shaped into a nude torso, low-cut draped black velvet skirt with pompoms at bottom hem, white lace panties and thick straw sun hat
Designer Virginie Viard is increasingly making Chanel her own story.
Especially in haute couture you can see how woman-friendly the brand is if you keep the needs of the customers in mind.
Viard does not dictate a silhouette, but rather develops its style.
Her references range from memories of Inès de la Fressange to a 19th-century recording of Annie Oakley.
This is how she creates casual day suit elegance in the style of the twenties.
Long halterneck dress in green wool crepe
At the age of 88, that's when life begins.
Giorgio Armani dutifully crowns some silhouettes in his couture line Privé with little hats.
At the same time, it's charming when he preaches Milanese tastes in Paris too.
His couture still stands out in the biggest fashion city.
Black velvet one shoulder dress with bodice embroidered with pink sequins and crystals
He is the sensation of the Paris salons.
Charles de Vilmorin is handsome, comes from the best family and wears glasses like the young Yves Saint Laurent.
In the meantime, he also brings out his fantastic and colorful silhouettes as the chief designer of Rochas.
Asymmetrical dress in silk taffeta and hand-painted organza patchwork
Maria Grazia Chiuri has been showing contemporary couture for Christian Dior for years, most recently with modern folk costumes by the Ukrainian artist Olesia Trofymenko.
It goes down well with women who don't just consume thoughtlessly.
Black silk velvet dress with stylized bouquet of flowers, embroidered breastplate in cream mouline with relief effect
As a pioneering designer, Demna Gvasalia does political fashion shows and elevates streetwear to luxury.
For Balenciaga he is now also in haute couture.
He considers the high art of tailoring to be a laboratory that pushes fashion forward.
So you should take a close look, like this neoprene anonymous look.
Black Japanese neoprene diving dress with gloves and train, face shield, speaker pocket and upcycled watch ring
Viktor & Rolf were most recently known for their perfumes.
This couture season, the Dutch were back on the catwalk themselves.
This smells like a comeback.
Black overcoat, high-necked white cotton twined blouse, black cropped dress pants
Styling:
Markus Ebner
Production:
Evelyn Tye
Styling assistance:
Alexander Rottenmanner, Pierric Antoine
Photo assistance:
Adil Ait Djoudi
Models:
Valerie Scherzinger and Metta Irebe
Make-up:
Yusaku Nakahara
Hair:
Yi-Han Jen
Thanks to:
Ana Moreno Ruiz.
Recorded on July 8th at the Bois de Boulogne in Paris.
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