China News Agency, Fujian, Sanming, August 11th: "Hakka ancestral land" Sanming smoked duck: smoked fog does not exchange for gold
Author Lei Chaoliang
Smoked duck is to Sanming what roast duck is to Beijing.
In Sanming City, Fujian Province, the "ancestral land of Hakka", smoked duck has a long history.
Huang Changping, head of the Cultural Heritage Protection Association of Sanyuan District, Sanming City, told reporters that smoking was a method for the ancients to preserve meat. The historical records of Sanming smoked duck can be traced back to the Ming Dynasty.
Legend has it that during the Zhengde period of the Ming Dynasty, Emperor Wuzong stayed in a farmhouse in Sanming when he went to the south of the Yangtze River.
In the meantime, a smoked duck with golden color, rich fragrance and meaty tendon was deeply loved by the emperor, and was praised as "smoky fog surrounds gold without changing".
Every morning at 6 o'clock, Luo Guiying opens the door at the smoked duck shop in Sanyuan District to welcome customers.
Duck wings, duck necks, and duck claws in the shop are filled with incense.
Some of the diners who came after they had just paid, they couldn't wait to nibble.
"A good plate of smoked duck looks fresh and attractive, smells fragrant, and tastes mellow and delicious in the mouth, and the fragrance penetrates into the bone marrow.
In Sanming, smoked duck is a must-have dish for the locals during Chinese New Year and festivals, and almost every household will make it.
Because of the golden color left by fumigation and the sweet aroma of grains lingering on the lips and teeth after eating, smoked duck has become a strong nostalgia in the hearts of many Sanming people.
"Sanming smoked duck is not only a delicacy, but also an indispensable hometown flavor when presenting relatives and friends, gatherings of friends, honoring elders, and side dishes." Luo Guiying said.
In 1995, Luo Guiying, with her ancestral skills, opened a smoked duck shop in Sanyuan District.
Unexpectedly, "it was out of control". When the store was busy, the buns I bought in the morning could not be eaten until more than four o'clock in the afternoon.
Many Sanming people who go to other places to develop will always find her to buy smoked duck to satisfy their cravings, thus attracting a group of new diners.
Why is Sanming Smoked Duck "smoked and foggy"?
Brazing and smoking are the two key processes.
According to Luo Guiying, first select pure local millet ducks, slaughter and wash them, first marinate them with aromatherapy ingredients such as salt, star anise, monosodium glutamate, fragrant leaves, and angelica for 24 hours, then marinate them with slow fire for 2 hours, and then put the rice Put it in the bottom of the pot, put the duck on it, fumigate for 15 minutes, and then the pot is ready.
"The smoked duck produced in this way is more mellow and tasteful, and is green and environmentally friendly." Luo Guiying said that in the past, conditions were limited, and local people generally used rice bran to smoke duck, but now they use rice, that is, "miwu smoked duck".
Luo Guiying's practice belongs to cooked smoked, which is more common in Sanming, in addition to raw smoked.
According to Huang Changping, raw smoking is to hold the processed duck into a plane with bamboo sticks, soak it with seasoning for a certain period of time, and then put it into the pot with hot smoke produced by smoking materials such as wood chips, tea leaves, sugar cane peels, and sugar until it is about three mature. , and then put it into boiling water to cook.
In Huang Changping's opinion, compared with cooked smoked, raw smoked duck tastes more fragrant and sweet, and has more moisture. Generally, it should be eaten immediately, and it is not easy to store.
The smoked duck in many duck noodle restaurants on the market uses raw smoked method.
In recent years, with the development of e-commerce and logistics industry, the market of Sanming smoked duck has expanded rapidly.
Luo Guiying not only registered a trademark named after himself, but also expanded his business to Fuzhou, Xiamen and other places.
In addition to the Luo Guiying brand, Sanming smoked duck brands such as Liexi Dabeard, Liedong Laoyuquan and Chen Abing are constantly emerging.
Today, Sanming smoked duck has developed into a characteristic industry with an annual output value of over 300 million yuan.
Nearly 10 smoked flavor production and processing enterprises in Sanming urban area have obtained food production license certification, and a new smoked duck factory with an investment of more than 10 million yuan has also been completed.
With the successful registration of the national geographical indication trademark of "Sanming Smoked Duck", Luo Zhihuang, President of Sanming Smoked Food Marketing Association, said that Sanming Smoked Duck will move from "single fighting" to "alliance, standardization, standardization, cultural creativity and branding". , E-commerce" cooperative operation, get rich together.
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