The flag of the Aland Islands, red, blue and yellow flies on almost all ships.
It is the unmistakable sign that we have reached Mariehamn, its capital.
It has been much simpler than what the map painted.
This Baltic archipelago between Finland and Sweden is remote enough to feel adventurous, yet sensibly close to several major European cities.
A few hours by
ferry
are enough to get here.
In fact, the journey is already worth it.
To win the Trivial Pursuit blue cheese, you have to know that this Finnish autonomous region has its own parliament and 6,700 islands (only 65 are inhabited) where the official language is
Swedish
.
In 2022 it celebrates 100 of its independence.
One more fact that you won't find on wikipedia: it is a
sweeping liquid landscape
, dotted with colorful houses, saunas by the sea, apple orchards, fields covered in flowers and a whole arsenal of
trekking
and bicycle routes.
Oh, and disc golf courses.
In fact, it is one of the world meccas for this sport that is quite unknown in Spain.
Russian forts and candy
Cannons on the Bomarsund route.
Ferries
and bridges link some of the islands and are the traveler's main ally.
But for a start there is plenty to explore around
Mariehamn
.
One of the most interesting walking trails is that of Bomarsund, which, without losing sight of the water for a second, follows the ruins of the fortresses built here by the Russians in the mid-19th century.
Nearby, Kastelholm Castle serves as a tourist hook, mostly because of the
Aland Distillery
, where they make gin and other spirits.
Next door, Smackbyn makes candy and also has a pottery workshop and restaurant.
Perhaps it is the isolation, perhaps the harsh winter, but the truth is that creativity seeps through every nook and cranny of the landscape.
Aland Distillery.
One stop to check it out is the Skarpans art gallery, next to the Kvarnbo Pensionat hotel and the
Vinsmedjan wine bar
, all in a delightful 17th-century family farm where the owners are eager to share the secrets and charms of island life.
Heading to Flögö
Jumping from island to island is also mandatory.
In Flögö, 30 minutes away by boat, the Danes
Johanna and Ebbe Delfs
have turned a 1912 shipowner's house into a
hygge
temple that is hard to say goodbye to for its irresistible mix of warmth, naturalness and design.
Carlsro Badhotell has five rooms, delicatessen, restaurant... you can spend as long as you like.
The sauna, with a huge window, is strategically located next to the pier.
There is no excuse not to jump into the Baltic water after breaking a sweat.
The owners of Carlsro Badhotell.
Another of the most beautiful excursions, this time by boat, is Kobba Klintar, an old station for maritime pilots.
You will find a charming cafe... unsurpassed setting to taste the genuine
Aland pancakes
, the island's "national treasure", always with cream and cardamom.
On the way back, let yourself be carried away by the atmosphere of the Mariehamn marina.
Next to the Maritime Museum it is impossible not to notice the
Pommern, an
impressive sailing ship with four masts and an iron hull built in 1903 that can be visited.
PRACTICAL GUIDE
How to get.
Finnair
(finnair.com/es-es) flies daily to Helsinki from €189 return.
Where to sleep.
Park Alandia
(parkalandia.com).
Family hotel in the heart of the capital.
From €118.
Where to eat: ÅSS Segelpaviljong, by the water in Mariehamn, and Carlsro Badhotell in Flögö.
More information: On the tourism websites visitaland.com and visitfinland.com/es
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