China News Agency, Hefei, June 9th: Anhui Cuisine Yipinguo: From Hu Shi's family banquet to the "post-00" dinner, the same "C position"
China News Agency reporter Zhao Qiang
In Hefei, Anhui, as the epidemic dissipated, restaurants around University Town and Vocational Education Town became lively again.
"Yipin pot is full of weight, suitable for everyone to eat together, and the soup is rich and suitable for soaking rice." On the day the school was unblocked, "post-00" Zhang Xin and his classmates gathered in a restaurant to satisfy their cravings. "C" is the traditional famous Anhui dish - Hu One product pot.
The origin of the "Hu Family" is that Hu Shi, a famous modern Chinese scholar, often entertained guests with Yipinguo.
In recent years, the hit drama "The Age of Awakening" in mainland China has also made many viewers "plant grass" with this "Republic of China cuisine".
"A large iron pot, about two feet in diameter, was served hot, and it was still boiling, with a layer of chicken, a layer of duck, a layer of meat, and a layer of oily tofu, dotted with egg dumplings, and radish underneath. , green vegetables, it tastes great." Liang Shiqiu once wrote an article "like" Yipinguo after being a guest at Hu Shi's house.
"If anyone is preparing for a happy event this year, they will raise a fat pig ahead of time and use it to make Yipinguo." In Jixi, Anhui Province, Yipinguo's "hometown", villager Ke Zuoyan told reporters that the tofu ball (filled in hollow oil tofu) Stuffing), duck egg dumplings and other ingredients imply reunion and harvest.
Every wedding banquet, the local villagers will invite dozens of relatives and friends to start preparing the dishes a few days in advance. Generally, each table is a one-dish pot with six cold dishes.
Yipinguo is a layered hot pot of Jixi folks. The reason why it can be famous at home and abroad is that in addition to Anhui celebrities such as Chen Duxiu, Wang Mengzou, Hu Shi and other Anhui celebrities in "The Age of Awakening", Huizhou merchants from the Ming and Qing Dynasties to the early Republic of China "bring goods" The footprint and commercial status all over the world are also important reasons.
In the early years of the Republic of China, the famous journalist Cao Juren said bluntly: "It is neither the northern restaurant, nor the Suxi restaurant, nor the Sichuan restaurant, but the Huizhou restaurant that dominates the food industry in Shanghai."
"Yipin pot is the most typical fire dish in Anhui cuisine." Bao Xing, the master of Anhui cuisine who has been in the kitchen for more than 60 years, told reporters that each layer of ingredients should be made into semi-cooked products first, then put into the pot according to the regulatory code, and simmered slowly. And keep pouring the soup, it usually takes three or four hours to taste.
After the flavors of various meat and vegetarian dishes are combined with each other, the vegetarian dishes absorb the deliciousness of the meat dishes, and after the pork belly is defatted, the animal collagen becomes fragrant but not greasy.
The eating method of Yipin pot is also very particular. The elders eat first, and after eating the first layer, others move their chopsticks and eat from top to bottom. Do not dig it out.
According to Bao Xing, iron pots used for weddings in rural Jixi are generally about 40 cm in diameter, while those used for banquets in urban restaurants are mostly 24 cm in diameter.
According to legend, Yipinguo, which originated from the folk, was given the name by the emperor.
Bao Xing presided over the compilation of China's first standard cookbook, "Standards of Chinese Hui Cuisine", which records: According to legend, when Emperor Qianlong went to the south of the Yangtze River, he came to Jixi from Jiuhua Mountain to pay homage to the tomb of the emperor.
On the way, I stopped at a farmer's house. The enthusiastic peasant woman collected all the ingredients at home and stacked a pot.
The hungry Qianlong was amazed after eating it and gave it the name "Yipin Pot".
"I hope Yipinguo can present the prototype of the emperor's favorite food." Zang Yongrong, a "post-90s" from Taiwan, founded a "family" Taiwanese restaurant in Ma'anshan, Anhui, and is keen on the fusion of flavors from both sides of the strait.
He told reporters that his "first experience" of Anhui cuisine started with Yipinguo.
"As a representative dish of Anhui cuisine, Yipinguo fully embodies the characteristics of Anhui cuisine's 'colorful and lustful', and it has a very good meaning."
At the beginning of the 21st century, due to the influence of celebrities such as Hu Shi, Yipinguo was renamed "Hu's Yipinguo".
Today, the local people have long lived affluent lives, and some wedding banquets even have hundreds of Yipin pots. The ingredients in the pots also change according to the seasons and diners’ preferences, but the beautiful meaning and cultural atmosphere contained in Yipin pot have not changed.
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