Genoa is a city where you don't have to go hungry for long.

Nestled between the Mediterranean Sea and the Apennines, the port city is ideal for a culinary stroll.

Counters crammed with all sorts of pies, pizzette and donuts can be found in the so-called "Sciamaddas".

The Mercato Orientale on Via XX Settembre, inaugurated in 1899, is the main attraction for those with a sweet tooth.

The lush market is reminiscent of the days when Genoa, also known as "La Deliziosa", was a major hub of the spice trade.

The most popular snack in town is focaccia.

The Romans once called the flatbread panis focācius because it was baked in the ashes of the oven. "Focaccia is a common part of Genoese breakfasts," says Chiara Piccardo, manager of a guesthouse in Genoa's historic center.

As well as farinata, a cake made with chickpea flour, water, salt and olive oil, served with cheese or olives;

Torta Pasqualina, also known as Easter cake, with cooked chard or artichokes, courgettes, spring herbs and cheese;

or pumpkin pie with parmesan and ricotta.

"But I really like showing my guests how I prepare focaccia," says Piccardo.

"We Genoese like to have it with our cappuccino."

Proper kneading is important

"Type '00' soft wheat flour, water, lard, extra virgin olive oil, salt, malt and yeast are the ingredients of traditional focaccia," reveals Graziano Bargi, owner of the Panificio Mario bakery on Via San Vincenzo, which opened in 1938.

The dough is left to rest for about 30 minutes, then placed on a greased baking sheet and rolled out to its full size.

About a glass, half water, half extra virgin olive oil mixed with a tablespoon of salt is then poured onto the surface of the dough and spread well.

Bargi then presses into the batter with his fingertips to form the characteristic holes that give the focaccia its crunchy texture.

Then the focaccia is left to rise until it has almost doubled in size and finally baked in the oven at around 220 degrees.

In addition to the one centimeter high focaccia with its golden crust, other Ligurian baked goods such as pizzette, vegetable tarts or salatini can also be found in Graziano Bargi's bakery.

Bargi's family did not found the bakery, but only took it over in 1968.

That did not detract from their success.

"In the end, it all comes down to the skill of the baker," says Bargi.

Like Bargi, Luciano Pirlo is an expert in the preparation of focaccia.

Pirlo runs the Pestobene delicatessen on Via San Pietro della Porta.

Rising and proper kneading are particularly important for a good focaccia, he says.

Pirlo's specialty is the piesta, a focaccia with pesto.

He recommends trying them with a white wine from Liguria, a Pigato or Vermentino.

The ingredients of the classic pesto - basil, olive oil, parmesan, pecorino sardo and pine nuts - give the focaccia a full-bodied taste.

At Pestobene, the pesto is prepared in the shop window: the ingredients are carefully pounded in a mortar with a pestle.

After a visit to Pirlo, if you stroll along the Pietonal street to the fishing district of Boccadasse, you finally reach a tranquil beach lined with colorful houses.

Of course there are also snacks here.

A cheese-filled focaccia di recco paired with a cold beer is perfect for a lunch break or a beach picnic, especially on sunny spring days.

The taste of the focaccia will remain in the soul for a long time even after returning from Genoa.