[Cinementary] Young Koreans in Seongji's Custom Suits, These Costumes He Cut

  London's wet and gloomy winter.

London was shut down completely due to the worst corona virus.

That same year, in 2020, London's Saviellow Street, a holy place for world-class handmade tailored suits, was also closed.

The craftsmen of tailor-made suits also dispersed and returned to their hometowns.

 However, at Cad & The Dandy, an up-and-coming tailor shop on the Savilow family, a young Korean tailor is working hard to make a suit.

The name 'Jack Farthing' is written on the order book of the suit, which he is quilting with all his heart, as if 'Bespoke (custom-made suit) is exactly this'.

 A few days ago, the tailor shop was also closed and I was wasting my time at home, when the president of 'CAD and the Dandy' called me.

Kim Dong-hyun, a tailor, 33, was ready to work at any time, as he had lived alone in a house near a tailor shop, unlike other tailors from the UK and other parts of Europe.

He had nothing to do with the car. 

 n't even imagine when I entered Savillow Street two years ago two years ago, carrying only a diploma from Bespoke Tailoring, London University of the Arts. It was impossible.

However, the president gave a chance to a young Korean who started as an assistant (aka 'sida') who ironed and fastened buttonholes, did all kinds of dirty work without hesitation, learned hard, and was rapidly improving his skills.

  The word 'POW' was clearly written on the pattern paper (cloth pattern made of paper) that Master Taylor handed over to Kim Dong-hyun.

POW stands for 'Prince of Wales' and refers to the Crown Prince of England.

Until then, Kim Dong-hyun did not know exactly.

She knew that the clothes she would make would be in the movie Spencer, about Princess Diana.

The name 'Jack Farthing' written on the order book was the name of the actor who played Prince Charles in this movie.

 Spencer is a highly acclaimed film featuring world-famous star Kristen Stewart as Diana, a strong nominee for this year's Academy Award for Best Actress.

It tells the story of what happened over three days over the Christmas holidays, when Diana became tired of her royal life and distanced herself from Prince Charles, who was in an open relationship with Camilla Parker Bowles.

Although Jack Farthing is a supporting role, he appears heavily in scenes where he has a sharp nerve battle with Diana as the Crown Prince.

Spencer is a film that deals with the fashion of not only the world-famous fashion icon, Diana, but also the British Queen and Prince Charles.

The Crown Prince costume made by Kim Dong-hyun had to properly reproduce the British royal attire, an eternal classic of men's suits.

The costume director for this film is Jacqueline Duran, who twice won the Academy Award for Best Costume for Anna Karenina and Little Women.

  Mr. Kim made three sets of costumes from start to finish by himself, including one tweed overcoat, one tweed suit, and one shooting suit.

In addition to looking for books, I had to figure out the length of the lapel, the angle of the bend, and the length of the buttonhole by referring to the coat and suit photos in the photo of Prince Charles.

Just before the costume was completed, the film production company and Jack Farthing came to the fitting.

There were no major modifications other than asking the shooting suit to have an additional stroller pocket (a pocket that you can put your hand in) and adjusting the patch pocket position a bit.

It was done by a young man who was not even British but had studied abroad in Korea.

 Kim was also involved in the costume work for The Batman about two or three months before making the clothes for Spencer.

Much of the Hollywood blockbuster The Batman was filmed in Liverpool and London, England.

Even at this time, at first, the president simply said, "The film work has come in."

However, the order book that Kim received had the name of star actor Colin Farrell written on it.

Later, Mr. Kim found out that the dinner jacket he was making (the jacket worn at a banquet) would be worn by Batman's famous villain, 'Penguin'.

Kim and his fellow tailors worked together to create a penguin jacket, six trousers for Peter Sarsgaard, a detective, a navy suit and a gray suit, and ten shirts.

The penguin jacket Kim made was used for the filming after shortening the lapel a little and modifying the sleeves.

  A jacket (called a coat in England) is a garment that can only be made with a certain level of skill as a tailor.

When you first start working in a tailor shop, you start with the assistant role of making buttonholes and hand-sewn the lining.

Next, you become a trouser maker, and when you learn how to make trousers to some extent, you move on to a vest called a waist jacket.

After going through all these steps, you become a coat maker who makes jackets.

  Kim, who dropped out of the Department of Clothing Design in Korea, went to the army right away, and then went to a tailor shop near the unit where he was serving the day after he was discharged.

He only wore buttonholes for two years.

He had no teaching.

he had to leave

He was introduced to one of the guests and he became acquainted with the custom tailoring course at the University of London.

However, the two years of repetitive labor were not in vain.

Kim's 'skillful chores' when working as a temporary worker at CAD and the Dandy imprinted 'Kim' from Korea as a tailor-made lumberjack who faithfully does her job well.

She found an opportunity to learn while Kim met the demanding demands of a tailor, which other tailors wouldn't do well.

She studied hard on her own and diligently made clothes and approached him to teach him how to work, and more and more opportunities came to him.

'Spenser' and 'The Batman' came to me like that.

  Last October, tailor Kim Dong-hyun opened his own shop on the slopes of Itaewon, Seoul.

It's a small custom tailor shop that doesn't even have a signboard yet.

  "Working on a film was a challenge for me. I was determined to make the same clothes once with a picture in a situation where I didn't have anything in place. As a result, the costumers, the boss, and the actors were all satisfied. If

you check out the movie, you'll see.

 Suits are the uniforms of society invented by the British. I'm not British, but I'm a bit crazy about all cultures, including British pseudoculture. Time in England, learning clothes and studying, everything. In the end, what I want to do when I come back to Korea is to inform the visual modeling of the suit that has been honed over a long period of time, as well as the stories hidden in the clothes. If it's a dress, or it's a dress given to you by the king, then you can't throw it away. Or the handkerchief that my grandmother gave me before she passed away. If this has a story, I can't throw it away. That's elegance and luxury. Wearing such a luxury item with a big logo on it It's not luxury to go around. I want to make clothes that tell such a story."