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For the most gourmet travelers, the recent reopening of Morocco to tourism after the pandemic means returning to La Mamounia, the famous hotel in the heart of Marrakech that in the last century has known how to interweave glamor and beauty,
hedonism and the legend
, the avant-garde and the most delicate craftsmanship.
"The most wonderful place in the world", as Winston Churchill would say, has recently shed its skin.
That yes, with all the subtlety that distills that famous paradox that Tomasi di Lampedusa wrote
in
El Gatopardo:
"change everything so that everything stays the same".
Hence, one of his latest great proposals is discreetly hidden in his garden of the thousand and one nights... underground.
L'Oenothèque is a wonderful little bunker that every wine lover fantasizes about and, since its creation in the hotel's latest and recent refurbishment, it's also one of the Red City's worst-kept treasures.
L'Oenotheque.
This wine bar is accessed through a tent, or maybe it's an Aladdin's lamp, who knows, in front of the pool.
Two flights of steps lead up to a festival of
2,000
exceptional bottles arranged around a table for twelve people.
The most dazzling piece, however, is not one of his
grands crus
, but a huge
rope chandelier made
by local artisans.
Seated in armchairs from the Italian house Pedrali, diners can choose one of the tasting menus offered by the hotel.
The experience starts with the sommelier who takes the reins of the evening.
What comes first is a Ruinart Blanc de Blancs, a " classic
champagne
, which goes perfectly with the texture of Icelandic salmon with Kaviari caviar and subsequent
foie gras
".
In a second time, a chenin blanc from the Loire region for sea bass and a Bordeaux for carnivores enter the scene.
The new 'Aladdin' tents.
The wine bar is the last of the spaces that La Mamounia has incorporated during the pandemic.
To its extensive list of craftsmen and architects, it added two years ago the talent of the duo formed by the Frenchman
Patrick Jouin
and the Canadian
Sanjit Manku
.
The designers, famous for transforming established establishments and luxury brands, have breathed an air of modernity into the palace, previously darker and more solemn, and have created new gastronomic proposals.
Next to L'Oenothèque, the tea room of the pastry chef
Pierre Hermé,
one of the most renowned in the world, is new, where a spectacular lamp with more than 600 crystals and a fountain, one of the 28 in the hotel, which make it wherever the guest is, do not stop listening to the sound of water.
In the new Mamounia, the observer's eye travels to other places beyond that garden of slender palm trees and ancient olive trees where
Hitchcock
was inspired to create
The Birds.
Guests and the curious can also see (and savor) the traces of the designers in the trattoria and in the Asian restaurant headed by
starry
chef
Jean-Georges Vongerichten
.
And what has happened in the legendary bar
Le Churchil
l?
The British prime minister would surely approve of the latest change.
Today he emulates an
old
luxury train car, a nod to the Moroccan Railway Company, to which the establishment still belongs 99 years after its birth.
What will happen when he turns a century is still a secret.
So far, the readers of
Condé Nast Traveler
magazine have once again chosen La Mamounia in their annual awards as the Best Hotel in the World.
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