China News Service, Jiangmen, March 9th, question: in the early spring, it is time for the people of Taishan, the hometown of overseas Chinese in Guangdong, to try it.

  Author Li Xiaochun Guo Jun

  "I heard from the older generation that catfish began to swim upstream from the day of the Great Cold, and this phenomenon will continue until Qingming. The catfish will go out in groups at night. If you find any swimming near the shoal or shore, take it with you. You can also get a few net pockets with a long handle." Recently, Mr. Wu, a "post-80s generation" in Sijiu Town, Taishan City, a famous hometown of overseas Chinese in Guangdong, said while chatting with friends.

Taishan in early spring has warmed up, and the catfish in the wild are plump and have the habit of swimming upstream, swimming in groups, playing nests, and spawning.

Steamed catfish in garlic and soy sauce photo by Li Xiaochun

  In some vegetable markets in Taishan or in the early spring morning markets in townships and villages, you can occasionally encounter fish stalls selling wild catfish, which vary in size and have a lot of mucus.

"These batches of wild catfish are not big, each of them is 300 grams to 500 grams, and more than 1 kilogram is too small. Yesterday, there was one of nearly 2 kilograms, which was ordered by regular customers on the way. Kilograms are sold at 26 yuan (RMB, the same below), and other small ones are sold at 20 yuan per kilogram.” On March 6, a stall owner selling wild freshwater fish near Fucheng Market in Taicheng Street introduced that wild catfish are on the market this season every year. At most, when the weather is good, the daily sales volume can exceed 50 kilograms.

In addition to recommending it to regular customers to try early adopters, it will also be supplied to restaurants that have long-term cooperative relationships and operate farm dishes.

Catfish Braised Peanuts Photo by Li Xiaochun

  "When we talk about catfish, most of them refer to bigmouth catfish or soil catfish. They feed on fish, shrimp and aquatic insects and are very ferocious. When placing fry, if a few adult catfish appear in the fish pond, it is enough to make other fry disappear in a short time. Even the group is destroyed." Mr. Ma, a farmer in Sijiu Town, said that the catfish has the characteristics of large size, fast growth, strong feeding power and delicious meat. It is a relatively precious ferocious carnivorous fish among freshwater fish, and its economic benefits are relatively high. Significantly.

At present, most of the bigmouth catfish sold on the market are hybrid varieties, which are generally more than 1 kg in size. They are widely favored by rural restaurants due to their high meat yield and good meat taste.

Taishan people waiting to buy soil catfish in the morning market Photo by Li Xiaochun

  According to reports, in the teahouses and restaurants in Taishan townships, catfish, raw fish (black fish), loach, yellow eel, loach and other ingredients are always available in all seasons, and local people believe that the quality of wild caught is better.

"Catfish are available all year round, and most are farmed in fish ponds. If you want to eat wild ones, it depends on luck. In terms of cooking methods, there are catfish stewed with peanuts, steamed catfish with soy sauce, steamed catfish with noodles and soy sauce, and baked catfish in clay pot. , fried and braised catfish, etc. Fry it for a while, and you can also serve it with yuba or wax gourd slices or tofu in soup.” The person in charge of a restaurant operating farm dishes in Shuibu Town revealed that the catfish raised in fish ponds are larger and have more meat. The cooking is mainly stewed and baked, and the taste of the products is richer, while the wild catfish is small in size. It can be steamed, baked or boiled, and the taste is sweet and tender.

Baked catfish in claypot, tender and sweet. Photo by Li Xiaochun

  For Taishan people who have lived in rural areas, the food cooked with catfish can easily bring back some emotional memories.

"Although the catfish is not big, it is delicious and delicious to make soup with it. After slaughtering, rinse the mucus from the fish body with hot water, fry both sides of the fish first, and then put it in the soup pot. , the soup is milky white, and adding some chopped coriander or green onion will make it more fragrant.” Ms. Li, a “post-80s” citizen of Taishan, said that in the past, grandma in the countryside often cooked soup for her, and the taste was in her childhood. The happiness in her memory is like honey, so that every time she sees a catfish sale in the market, she wants to buy a few and go back to make soup.

Wild catfish sold in Taishan vegetable market are slender and different in size. Photo by Li Xiaochun

  In recent years, with the continuous improvement of Taishan's ecological environment, beautiful pictures of harmonious coexistence between man and nature have been displayed everywhere.

Jinxing Lake Wetland Park, Shihua Mountain Park, Beifeng Mountain Forest Park, Longwen Windmill Mountain in Duanfen Town, Bird Watching Corridor in Haiyan Town, Zhenhaiwan Mangrove Wetland Park and other places with beautiful ecological environment attract many tourists every holiday. Going to check in, indirectly brought prosperity to the catering industry in Taicheng and townships.

Baked raw eel in clay pot, raw fish "two flavors", catfish braised with peanuts, fried and braised loach, claypot baked loach fish, braised carp with ginger and spring onions, steamed eggs with crucian carp, steamed snails with basil leaves, braised chicken with snails, and baked eel Rice, carp baked rice, crucian carp baked rice, vegetable and fruit baked rice, slippery chicken baked rice and other "Taishan flavors" are constantly presented in local township restaurants throughout the year, bringing authentic taste bud enjoyment to the majority of diners. A direct way for locals to perceive nature from seasonal cuisine.

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