为乐山大佛“把脉”

  岷江、青衣江和大渡河三江汇流处,凌云山峰峦峭壁之间,一尊通高71米的弥勒石佛坐像雕凿其中。

  这是拥有1300余年历史的乐山大佛,是世界最大的石刻弥勒佛坐像。1996年,乐山大佛被联合国教科文组织列入世界自然与文化遗产名录。大佛头与山齐,脚踏江水,坐镇于浪急水旋的行舟之患处,在越度千年的时间里,眉目低垂地与乐山城隔江对视。

  1月15日,太阳迟迟未出,头一夜的雨水湿润了整座凌云山。从远处眺望,乐山大佛通体一片黝黑,把身上大面积的绿色苔藓映得灰暗,小草等植物也星星点点。大佛的轮廓清晰,脸部和脖子的底色更白,但是遍布灰黑色的痕迹,鼻子黑得格外显眼。

  历史资料显示,历史上虽经多次修缮,大佛仍屡屡“脸花鼻黑”。大佛最近一次“美容”是在2019年,面部经过“蒸汽法”软化打磨后,原有的“污垢”消失不见。然而没过几个月,“脸花鼻黑”再度重现。

  1月8日,四川文物局组织全国多位文保专家召开石窟保护座谈会,为乐山大佛“把脉问诊”。中国文化遗产研究院原副院长詹长法参加了此次会议,他认为,大佛病害反复发作的根本原因,是没有解决水害的问题,这一说法得到与会专家的一致认同。

  据川观新闻报道,在这次会议上,对乐山大佛进行系统性、整体性保护成为共识。“为大佛未来的保护指明了方向。”詹长法说。

大佛屡屡“脸花鼻黑”

  1月13日,在佛头的平台处,人们纷纷驻足,观赏着大佛的面容。大佛脸颊上,灰黑色的斑点东一块西一块,几乎遍布全脸,额头中间的深黑色三角扫至眉梢,盖过红色朱砂,延伸至整个鼻子。

  除了“脸花鼻黑”,大佛的额头还有多处长条状裂痕,像伤疤一样,从螺髻底端往下,直至眉梢,一些细碎裂痕还出现在下巴、脸颊。至于身体,则通体呈黝黑状。肩膀、胸口部位,仍存濡湿的状态。

  近些年来,“脸花鼻黑”是游客们对大佛的直观印象。

  A paper titled "The Formation Mechanism and Prevention Countermeasures of the "Black Nose" of the Leshan Giant Buddha shows that the researchers sampled and analyzed the nose of the Giant Buddha and found that the main factors for the "black nose" are the growth, reproduction and death of microorganisms. carbonization.

In the early repair of the Big Buddha's nose, the nose was rebuilt with wood as the skeleton and lime as the main filler. The wooden nose is more likely to grow microorganisms.

  "Water plays an important role here," said Zeng Zhiliang, a retired cultural relic expert. "Leshan is cloudy and rainy, and the surface of the rock mass is prone to tides." The long-term infiltration of water provides a breeding ground for microorganisms. ", and that's why.

In 1981, Zeng Zhiliang began to work in the Leshan Giant Buddha Cultural Relics Protection Administration.

  Zeng Zhiliang divided the water that affects the Buddha into groundwater and above-ground water.

The Leshan Giant Buddha Scenic Spot is a discharge area for surface and groundwater. Atmospheric precipitation seeps into the rock formation through bedrock fissures and transforms into groundwater, and seeps through the Buddha's body, causing damage to the Giant Buddha rock.

  Because the Buddha is washed by groundwater and ground water all the year round, the surface of the Buddha is always in a wet state, which is very suitable for plant growth. Zeng Zhiliang gave an example, "such as moss." These vegetations attached to the Buddha are combined with microorganisms, sediment, etc. in the cycle of life and death. , making the whole body black.

  Zhan Changfa mentioned the acid rain problem.

According to the "Preliminary Study on Governing the Giant Buddha in Leshan", the number of rainy days in Leshan is 175 days, and the average annual precipitation can reach 1368mm. In the 1982-1985 years mentioned in the study, the average pH of the total precipitation was 4.51 to 4.69, all of which belonged to acid rain. Scope.

Because of this, "tears" appeared under the eyes of the giant Buddha due to acid rain erosion, and the spectacle of "the giant Buddha closed his eyes" was also because the giant Buddha had been washed away by acid rain for several years, and the pigments of the eyes were eroded.

  A staff member of the China Railway Northwest Research Institute is responsible for the daily maintenance of the Giant Buddha. In his impression, Leshan always rains at night and stops during the day, "even for a month, it is in this state." In such a situation Under the sun, the exposed Buddha will be exposed to the sun and rain for a long time, and the covering layer may crack and bulge.

Zeng Zhiliang described this kind of harm, "Like the loss of collagen, the surface of the Buddha becomes sandy and muddy, and the epidermis is stripped away, which accelerates the weathering of the Buddha."

  “大佛受到环境的影响太大了。”詹长法感叹,在裸露的环境里,气候潮湿、雨水多、依存岩体性质等因素环环相扣,在大佛身上,相同的问题频频出现。而这些问题在游客眼中,就是“脸花鼻黑”、“泪痕”、“开裂”等。

难以清除的草木

  与“脸花鼻黑”同样常年存在的,是大佛通体茂盛的植被。正如1月13日的大佛,远远看去,植物从肩部开始变多,绿色密集地出现在袈裟上方,指缝等岩体的夹角处,总是堆满了低矮的草,就连两个耳朵孔里,也有绿色的枝条伸出。

  张清智是乐山当地人,“在风景区打零工,有时是清理大佛,有时是在景区做维修,做了十多年。”每年,管委会都会安排他们为大佛做日常维护工作,“主要是清理杂草,一年两到三次。”

  张清智回忆他去年的一次剪草工作,那是2021年的端午节之前,在他的记忆里,“当时大佛鼻子的颜色已经很深。”

  71米高的位置,张清智扣紧了腰间的保险带,四肢勾着软梯向下爬。他的任务是修剪杂草。他手持剪刀伺机而动,看到比手心还小的杂草,就伸手扯掉,稍大一些的植被,则用剪刀剪掉,“不然要把大佛的石头扯坏了。”

  顺着软梯下落到大佛腿部,张清智的耳边传来“呼、呼”的水声。时值丰水期,耳朵接受了浪石相激的讯息。游客们抬头仰望的黑色佛身,在张清智眼中,就是一堵黑色的墙,大片苔藓附着于各处,有时还湿漉漉的。

  在张清智的印象里,十余年来,大佛身上的草木就像永远剪不完,“每次来,都有一米高的小树。”

  历史资料也证明了这一点。1914年,法国人色伽蓝拍摄的照片里,佛身被藤蔓包裹,而佛头的口鼻之处,草木破石而出。

  上世纪九十年代,《治理乐山大佛的前期研究》出版,其文中提到,大佛身上常年长有小树、杂草、蕨类和苔藓等,由于近些年经常清除,小树鲜有,较宽的缝中才可能出现。而杂草通常出现在头顶发髻间、基岩表面岩石层间和一些人工孔中,胸部及右腹部由于地下水渗流,泥钙质及植物根系在佛身表面形成厚几毫米的饱水面层,其上多长蕨类植物和小草。苔藓和霉斑主要分布在左侧脸部、腹部和两腿之间的润湿区。相对干燥的岩石表面(如左腹部和腿部),则常有铜钱状霉斑成片出现。

多次修缮

  《治理乐山大佛的前期研究》中溯源了近代历次修缮的历史。自1914年以来,乐山大佛先后经过了8次修缮。

  1914年,近代以来大佛的首次修缮,凌云寺僧人清理了“草丛是眉毛和胡须,树丛是头发”的大佛表面。

  1918年至1925年间,驻防乐山的川军第八师师长陈洪范为维修乐山大佛,给大佛做了个“面套”。1925年年底,乐山被军阀杨森占据,其部下以大佛为靶子试炮,把大佛左眼打了一个窟窿。两年后有资中居士捐几百块银元补修大佛,还首次用水泥把大佛全身刷新。

  上世纪60年代,由于大佛脚背上堆积着厚土,有人在此开辟菜园,并建起简易厨房与化粪池。“文革”时期,又有红卫兵要“除四旧”炸大佛,当地民众强烈阻止才得以幸免。

  中铁西南科学研究院的专家陈成宗曾在上世纪80年代参与了对乐山大佛的地质勘测工作。如今,回想起乐山大佛,已经步入耄耋之年的陈成宗,依然对大佛存在的问题烂熟于心,“水害、风化、大佛的稳定性,生物病害,跟现在没有太大的区别。”

  1962年至1963年,新中国成立后对乐山大佛进行首次修缮。据当时组织施工的县文化馆干部黄高彬回忆,当时便发现大佛是捶灰面层,而鼻子底部是空的,有30厘米深。外面有捶灰,“脸部表层裂缝有指头宽,左脸残破处露出过红砂岩,嘴、鼻也有裂缝,有水从里面流出的痕迹,右脚已烂得不见五趾。”

  This repair uses traditional plastering and plastering, and mainly repairs the head, shoulders, hands, knees and feet of the Buddha.

The photos taken two years later show that the Buddha's face and neck are much whiter, but his nose is still black.

From 1973 to 1975, on the basis of this renovation, the Leshan County Cultural Center once again "beautified" the Giant Buddha.

  In 2001, the "beauty" action was relatively large, and the "black face and nose" and "tears" were all washed away. In addition to using the traditional method of plastering the face, the face painting and plastering also used the color of imitating red sandstone. Look more "younger".

  However, repairing with materials such as traditional hammer ash only suspends the weathering of the Leshan Giant Buddha.

Zeng Zhiliang mentioned that the repair layer of the Buddha is the place where it is easy to hollow out, crack, and even peel off the skin.

Chen Chengzong agreed with this statement, "Because they have been infiltrated with water for a long time, if they are repaired in this way every time, they may not last for five years." In Zhang Qingzhi's observation, "the non-native parts have the most mosses. ."

  The last "beauty" of the Giant Buddha was in 2019. After the face was softened and polished by the "steam method", the face of the Leshan Giant Buddha was "cleaned" and the original "dirt" disappeared.

The complexion of the face and neck becomes "white".

However, within a few months, the "black face and nose" slowly reappeared.

The top priority is water control

  In Zhan Changfa's view, the fundamental reason for the repeated occurrence of the Buddha's disease is that the problem of water damage has not been solved.

The top priority is water control.

  In fact, there are drainage channels hidden on the Buddha.

More than a thousand years ago, the builders of the Buddha considered the problem of drainage. They used the collar folds and buns of the Buddha to set up drainage grooves, and chiseled three more places where the Buddha's head, shoulders, and the back of the chest were connected to the mountain. Drainage corridor.

  In the 1980s, experts such as Huang Kezhong from the China Institute of Cultural Relics and Ma Jiayu from the Sichuan Provincial Institute of Cultural Relics and Archaeology led a team to conduct preliminary research on the restoration of the Leshan Giant Buddha.

Following this line of thought, experts have thought of a direction for groundwater management.

  The "Preliminary Study on Governing the Giant Buddha in Leshan" recorded the suggestion at that time. The second layer of drainage corridors and the back of the shoulders and the third layer of drainage corridors were dug down into the relatively water-resistant rock layers, and the three layers of horizontal corridors were connected by vertical shafts. road.

"The amount of engineering is not large, and the construction is difficult, but the interception and discharge of groundwater is effective, and it does not affect the landscape and stability of the Buddha."

  During the major renovation in 2001, Zeng Zhiliang, the commander-in-chief of the renovation, proposed to solve the problem of water seepage, that is, according to the treatment suggestions put forward by the previous experts.

But Zeng Zhiliang said, "It is still under scientific proof."

  詹长法用“审慎”一词来解释原因。直到目前,大佛的排水渗水机制仍未弄清,“比如水会流动在哪些部位的石头?地表水渗到大佛上面,它的水质纯度是怎么样的,我们都不清楚。”陈成宗也认为,上世纪的治理建议,仅仅只是考虑的方案之一,“其实我们只知道问题,但是没弄清楚本质,未知的事情还很多,比如说水的流向、水流速度。”

  而针对地表水的治理,前期研究中提及,“若条件允许,上级主管部门同意,恢复‘大像阁’或采取其他遮护措施,当是避免大佛日晒雨淋的最好、最彻底的办法。”

  这一讨论延续至今。詹长法认为这个建议可行。他反复提及,这并不是现代人想当然地要“加个盖子”,大像阁是历史上曾经存在的。

  经考证,乐山大佛竣工后,身披彩色妆銮,为避免其遭受日晒雨淋,大佛外专门建有大像阁遮盖保护。到了南宋,大像阁已经修缮且更名,名为天宁阁。然而不知何年何因,阁楼终究被毁。《治理乐山大佛的前期研究》中提到,大佛膝上平台尚存几处外圆内方的古建筑遗迹,乃立柱管脚榫卯眼。

  陈成宗也赞同这一修复建议,不过他认为,公众的接受度也是一个问题。一个世纪以来,人们心中的乐山大佛都是裸露在外,贸然加一个阁楼,人们能否接受?“我们以前总说要修旧如旧,可这旧是哪一种旧?”

 文物需要持续维护保养

  “佛是一座山,山是一座佛。”乐山大佛素来有这一美称。远远望去,凌云山峭壁爬满了绿植,把乐山大佛裹挟其间,大佛始终是凌云山的一部分。

  1月8日,文保专家齐聚乐山,在四川文物局的组织下召开石窟保护座谈会,为“脸花鼻黑”的乐山大佛“把脉问诊”。会议期间,一行人专程勘察了现场。回想当时的情景,詹长法说,“要治理大佛,就应该治理凌云山的整体生态环境。”

  “不能把长期工作变成抢救性工作”,詹长法指出,由于乐山大佛常年遭受日晒雨淋,需要持续开展文物日常维护保养工作,经过科学论证后,修缮维护好这座千年石窟。“根据自然规律,没有任何东西可以永久保存,但我们要做的,就是让大佛留存得更久一点。”

  According to Zhan Changfa, at this symposium of cultural relics protection experts, the Leshan Municipal Government has solemnly promised that no less than 5% of the operating income of the Leshan Giant Buddha Scenic Spot will be used for cultural relics protection.

  The reporter learned from the core people involved in the protection of the Leshan Giant Buddha that the repair work of the Leshan Giant Buddha still needs to be scientifically demonstrated at this stage.

  Judging from the opinions of experts, the real "overhaul" of the Leshan Giant Buddha will take time.

But in the scenic area, a small maintenance project has quietly begun.

The reporter noticed that on the right side of the Giant Buddha, the scaffolding on the cliff of the Jiuqu Plank Road, which was excavated at the same time as the construction of the Leshan Giant Buddha, has been erected and covered with a green curtain.

On the side of the scaffolding, there are many small cliff statues and cave niches distributed on the red cliff, most of which have been blurred, leaving traces of severe weathering.

  This project is called "Projects involved in the preliminary survey and research on the emergency reinforcement of dangerous rock mass in the Jiuqu plank road area of ​​Leshan Giant Buddha". According to CCTV news reports, the scaffolding has been erected, and the crack meter, vibration measuring instrument and other survey instruments required for the survey and research have been After the installation is in place, the big data collection work begins.

  Peng Xueyi, head of the Leshan Giant Buddha Grotto Research Institute, mentioned that this project will conduct grotto-style archaeology on dozens of Buddhist statues on the Jiuqu Plank Road.

Scientific detection and analysis of the previously discovered fissures in the Leshan Giant Foshan will also be carried out.

On the basis of the detailed engineering geological survey and testing results, the design of the emergency reinforcement plan for the dangerous rock mass in the Jiuqu plank road area is carried out.

  But tourists don't know that.

They always looked up at the big Buddha, and could not walk on the nine-curved plank road, so they browsed back and forth along the passage on the left side of the big Buddha.

On January 13, on the platform of Buddha's feet, on the cruise ship on the Minjiang River, tourists came and went, and everything was business as usual.

  (Zhang Qingzhi is a pseudonym in the text)

  Beijing News reporter Wang Chang