Madagascar: reopening of the Zaimaika gallery after two years of work
Audio 02:17
In Antananarivo, the renovation of the Zaimaika fast food gallery (“for those who are in a hurry”, in French) delights regulars and makes new followers.
© RFI/Laetitia Bezain
By: Laetitia Bezain Follow
3 mins
The Zaimaika gallery, located in the heart of Antananarivo, has just reopened its doors.
This temple of Malagasy fast food had been closed for two years after the collapse of its roof.
Entirely renovated building, training of gargotiers in hygiene standards, tiled stands... This reopening delights regulars, but also a new clientele who did not dare stop in this gallery with popular gargotes.
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From our correspondent in Antananarivo,
From 6 a.m., the smell of charcoal cooking invades the Zaimaika gallery.
Fano, at stand number 21, is busy, like the other gargotiers, to serve those who come to have their breakfast.
“
I arrive here at 4 am. I light the fire and start preparing everything. There is chicken with black mushrooms, very tender braised beef, sausages and pork in sauce. There, we have the ravitoto: crushed cassava leaves and white beans as an accompaniment. It's my mouth that replaces the menu card. Good to work here since the renovation. The number of customers has doubled.
“, he explains.
At noon, the gallery is teeming with Tananarivians, hailed by the waiters as they pass.
Among them, Mbolasoa and his friends: “
It's the first time I've come here.
We saw that it was well renovated and we came to test.
What I like is the rice with pounded cassava leaves with pork.
Before, Zaimaika, that didn't inspire confidence in me.
There, the place is attractive and it is good.
It's a Malagasy-style fast food
,” exclaims Mbolasoa.
To perpetuate the spirit of the Zaimaika gallery
If some gargotiers now offer stools to their customers to sit on the tiled edge of their stand, at Ra Fredy, specialist in look's (contraction of "
loha
" and "
kisoa
", "
pig's head
" in French), it
is the original spirit of Zaimaika that lives on: eating standing up.
"
I've been working here for 50 years and we try to keep this way of cooking and eating.
That's the pig's head.
There, I cut off the ears.
I just cook it.
I wash it well.
I add water, salt in the pot and I cook for 5 to 6 hours.
»
Around his window, dozens of people gobble up his dishes greedily.
This is the case of Andry, a regular:
I arrive, I give my order and the second after, he gives me my dish because everything is already ready in the pots.
Many of us don't have much time to eat and in this gallery, it's an express service.
I like this place because you can admire all the Malagasy cuisine there, without frills.
Everyone likes it, especially Mr. Fredy's look, which is well known here.
Unchanged prices
Like most cooks, Ra Fredy has not increased his prices since the reopening and sells his dishes between 2,000 and 3,000 ariarys, less than one euro.
“
It's not just for the poor or the rich here.
There are doctors, office workers and simple people around, who come to eat.
Zaimaika is for everyone
,” he says.
Customers who are spoiled for choice.
64 gargotiers have taken over the gallery's brand new boxes.
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