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It's time to study the
spring-summer 2022 trends.
If you're one of the first in the class, your analysis may have started months ago, but you're either one of those people, or you're one of those who immersed themselves in the notes the night before the exam ,
this is the matter
.
These are the clothes and the styles that you will see, and a lot, during the next months.
The miniskirt
MJPM
Savvy shoppers at Net-A-Porter announced that for them,
there is no garment that defines fun better than the miniskirt
. It has appeared among the proposals of the great houses in its purest version, that is,
very, very short
; an allegation to
hedonism
that cannot be ignored. This is what emerges from almost all the brands that have included one in their parades, but
Prada
stands out above all . The reason? Among
Miuccia
's creations there are not many long shorts and, even so, they took center stage in that simultaneous parade that was defined as sexy.
That same idea of
sensuality
was also present in
Miu Miu
, another of the firms that has boasted more and better of these concise measures, thanks, moreover, to placing the
waistband on the hip
, in an obvious and gimmicky nod to the style of the
2000s
. so present here and now.
The same that has been seen in
Blumarine, Balmain or Loewe,
which uses asymmetry to add a twist to this skirt.
vertical stripe print
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This is another example of that
fun
that is now claimed in fashion, of that joy of dressing that permeates a 'print' as forceful as this one. Because references to '
Beetlejuice
' apart, what is striking is that from
Marni
to
Carolina Herrera New York
they have fallen into the literality of
black and white lines
, only making it more sophisticated thanks to the fact that they fill long dresses.
Victoria Beckham
has also worn them, but for a more relaxed two-piece, while at
JW Anderson and Jil Sander
black gives way to a softer (and trendier) two-tone.
More examples?
In
Altuzarra, Emporio Armani, Preen by Thornton Bregazzi, Roksanda, Givenchy, Schiaparelli, Courrèges, Balmain, Isabel Marant
...
The traditional and pastel color block
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The two predominant palettes this spring-summer 2022 are
opposite in their intention
: while the most
vibrant and saturated
one aims to stand as a
visual shock
, as an aesthetic remedy against apathy and uncertainty,
the second aims to calm, provide a certain sense of well-being
which, interestingly, can also have the same energizing effect as the previous one. In one,
fuchsia pinks and oranges stand out;
in another,
lilacs, light blues, yellows and pale greens.
So what do they have in common? The mode of use.
Although it is clear that both one range and another appear alone, the favorite mode of presentation, according to what is seen in
Loewe, Halpern, Rodarte, Moschino, Versace or Tom Ford
, is together, both in a printed format and creating blocks itself. .
Leaving aside the shape, what is clear is that
the monochrome look is not going to live its best moment... except with white.
the color white
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Yes, it is true that most of the spring-summer 2022 outfits appear in various shades, playing with sometimes risky color combinations that reflect the joy of dressing again, hopefully, for the street.
However,
the resounding exception is the immaculate looks, white from head to toe,
which lead to known and safe territories.
What happens with these 'total looks' is that they
redirect the focus of attention to textures and patterns
; an absence of color that allows other formal features to stand out, as with
grisaille
. For this reason,
Saint Laurent by Anthony Vaccarello's XL
shoulder dress has little to do
with Peter Do's 90s minimalist
flair ;
with the more traditional femininity of
Proenza Schouler or Carolina Herrera New York
or with the new 'power dressing' by
Fendi
.
If you want to interpret white in a retro key,
Dior and Tod's
are the places to go;
for sensuality, go to
Emilio Pucci, Alberta Ferretti, Isabel Marant, JW Anderson or Valentino
, and if you prefer pure romanticism,
Molly Goddard and Simone Rocha
are the answer.
The combo dress + pants
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This is a very, very popular resource in street style and one of the great trends of spring-summer 2022. So much so that it has managed to convince such disparate firms as
Peter Do, Louis Vuitton, Toga, Isabel Marant or Collina Strada.
Nobody would say that the previous brands have a common aesthetic and, however, they have all agreed to include a risky but effective mixture among their proposals.
The key?
Find the perfect balance between pants and dress.
This last piece can be either very long (and sometimes shirt-like) or short and with straight lines and a bit 'minimal', but the common denominator is
straight or wide pants.
No cigarettes in this equation that allows you to squeeze a little more life out of the wardrobe.
Y2K style modernized
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For the experts, analysts from Net-A-Porter, it is
one of the great aesthetic currents of the season
.
One that, true, may not be to everyone's taste: it is what relatively recent nostalgia has.
Twenty years have passed
since the turn of the century and all that cast of
low-waisted pants, short tops, openings, butterflies, straps
and other elements that spoke of a sensuality and even sexuality that spoke of an exploration (and monetization) of the bodies .
But leaving that debate aside, the key would be
"the opportunity to reflect on those cultural moments and the current ones, and discover emerging talent with a youthful and invigorating point of view."
Although there are very literal transfers, as with the
Blumarine collection, others are more subtle, such as the
Loewe
denim dress
, the high-hip bodysuit and the
Balmain
low-rise pants ;
the pink and metallic minidress by
Versace
or the transparent and shiny body by
Stella McCartney
.
Of course,
Miu Miu
's low-waisted miniskirts or
Coperni
's hyper-short tops deserve a separate mention .
the fringes
MJPM
If you have to talk about fun and enjoyment in fashion, you have to mention the fringes.
They are one of the oldest decorations in the history of fashion and clothing (they can be traced back to Mesopotamia) but also one of the most recently used: they have been very present in winter and, due to their success, they will continue to be so in summer.
Due to its ubiquity, the big brands have set out to explore different versions.
Thus, they can be thick and multicolored in
Chloé
and very, very fine in
Halpern
.
Halfway between them are those of
Proenza Schouler and Rodarte
, which also take over dresses in vibrant and unavoidable tones: that is the favorite piece for this adornment.
See you soon, 'western' jackets.
The XL Jackets
MJPM
Or at least
a little 'oversize'.
It is a measure that has conquered the taste of the general public (you have to find the ideal pattern, that is true) and that has been done with a multitude of garments, but the ones that really stand out are the jackets. The two essentials for this season?
The blazers and the perfect.
It is no news that tailoring has been associated with optimism and with the recovery of social events, at the same time that it embodies the joy of dressing for the outdoors again.
So yes, it is logical that it continues among the trends of the season, especially when a visual review of the style of the 80s, 90s and 2000s
is made again
.
Balenciaga
is one of the firms that best dominates the art of XL blazers, but we must also mention
Saint Laurent by Anthony Vaccarello, Versace, Jil Sander, Lanvin or Proenza Schouler
as round examples.
To illustrate the phenomenon of the perfect 'oversize', nothing better than going to the catwalks of
Simone Rocha
(that slightly 'dark academy' and 'college' aesthetic is hypnotic),
Prada and Dolce & Gabbana
, where the canonical biker varies slightly its silhouette without losing the black color.
Yes, she does it at
Acne Studios,
where she prefers white (sprinkled with grey).
the silent luxury
MJPM
Phoebe Philo's
return
to the fashion industry could seem like the trigger for the
silent luxury
(after all, she was one of the greatest exponents of the term), but it is only
the tip of an iceberg that has been forming for a long time.
There are many, many examples of those simple and basic garments that solve your day-to-day life at
Loewe, Peter Do, Jil Sander, The Row, Chloé or Victoria Beckham
, to mention just a few names.
The colors, neutral;
lines simple.
And all this, because of that increasingly popular narrative of
responsible consumption
, thoughtful purchases and investments that, hopefully, will never go out of style.
This can also mean joy when dressing up.
transparencies
MJPM
It could be evident that
light fabrics
that reveal the body are a trend in spring-summer 2022. It is. But it has already been mentioned that traveling through known and safe territories is another of the exercises that brands have carried out this season (in the face of uncertain times, old friends), and it is not one that should be disdained: the body is once again in the center, as well as a conscious and proud exhibition of it.
Reappropriation of discourse
, they call it.
Be that as it may, the examples of transparencies are, if possible, more extreme in
Givenchy
or
Fashion East
, where the fabric takes on an aquatic aspect;
while flowers soften (slightly) the effect in
JW Anderson, Valentino or Giambattista Valli.
Of course, transparencies also appear on
Rejina Pyo, Etro, Erdem, Emporio Armani, Emilio Pucci or Dior
shirts , but special mention goes to
Schiaparelli
and his references to Helmut Newton.
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