It may seem simple and banal at that.

Nonetheless, the sandwich biscuit embodies the first stage of sophistication that a naked biscuit made of fatty sweet dough can scale.

It is enhanced by an ingredient from the repertoire of classic confectionery: a cream.

In the course of mass production, it has been modified into a kind of whipped cake icing;

instead of butter and cream, it contains cheaper coconut, palm, rapeseed and sunflower oils as well as plenty of sugar.

The recipe calls for a relatively stiff consistency for the biscuit;

she has two cookies in a round sandwich.

Although both the market leader, the "Prinzen Rolle" from the confectionery group Griesson-de Beukelaer, and the competitor "Oreo" offer highly teased variants, the straightness and caloric concentration of the conventional chocolate sandwich biscuit are impressive.

Soberly, she subordinates enjoyment to satiation - but only to the extent that the so-called after-effect can work unhindered.

Widespread in kindergartens, schools and universities, the double biscuit also crumbles through offices, trains and buses, stocks camping and hiking and does not stop at hospitals and care facilities.

It is not only there that it defies contemporary health advice and diet trends, because it promises quick and uncomplicated strengthening, no matter where you are.

There is also a practical advantage: the lid and base act as an edible serviette and prevent sticky fingers.

The double biscuit thus meets the need to briefly and easily interrupt the processes of everyday events.

For some, the consumption of this folk snack has already taken the place of a cigarette break.

Not many of the ingredients that make up this miniature edition of the Cold Dog can be found in the stacks of a bakery on Berlin's Brunnenstraße, because only top-quality ingredients are used there.

Anna Plagens, one of the few undisputed authorities on the art of confectionery in the capital, runs her “French Pâtisserie Du Bonheur” here with great success.

Over the years at the imperial and royal court confectioner Demel in Vienna and in Paris with Pierre Hermé, the master student of the great Gaston Lenôtre, Plagens was of course colossally overqualified for testing profane biscuits from the supermarket.

But even at this level, something can happen that the pâtissier finds completely satisfying: that its charms harmonize and all taste buds are addressed at the same time.