The architect who shook up luxury in Grassy: "Husbands don't know how to buy jewelry"

Patricia Reznak

is a woman with very clear ideas, but she doubts, and a lot, when we ask her how she would define herself.

"I don't know what to say," he hesitates, "others think that what defines me the most is

and generosity, and it seems wonderful to me that they say that about me, but it's not what I think, it's what people say. others, "he answers after a few minutes that seem eternal.

It's the worst part of the interview, I assure you. And it seems so, because the rest of the

flows into a lively conversation that faithfully reflects what she is, "a very

person

with many things to contribute." In the end, he does know how to define himself, even if he has never stopped to think about it.

An architect

by training - "and by profession, I practiced it for many years", she points out - since 2005 she is the creative director of the brand and today the most

jeweler in

the capital. Talking to her is a lesson in jewelery and art - "At heart, my work at Grassy is a kind of curatorial", she assures. And a pleasure, because nothing is saved. "When they ask me why I left architecture I always say that it was the other way around, that architecture left me. I lost my job in 2005, when the great crisis was still three years away. It happened to get into

, the family business. When I told my father and my brother they did not give credit, although they were

, Sure.

Then, of course, there were

and discussions, because I got into Grassy from moment one ".

Seventeen years and many

later, - "Especially with my father, but as we have always had them, our relationship did not change much, although they were always very constructive, a form of motivation. I had a completely different idea of ​​what it is exclusivity and refinement, they are different visions ", she says- Patricia has imposed hers,

by architecture, although her jewels have never been architectural.

"There are many architects who design jewelry and they are very geometric, but not mine, mine are very

Both in inspiration and in conception, they are each a bit of their father and mother, very different from each other. It is something that they have always told me and have sometimes reproached me for. And I have always answered that since I am at home, which is the truth, I do what I want, whatever I want. And if one day I wear

turban-shaped

, what am I in now, or I propose a collaboration with an artist or whatever, because everything flows. In the end, everything comes out, "he says.

And it flows, and it comes out, because in the making of her cape into a tunic, Patricia knows perfectly where she is stepping. When she arrived at

"the fertilizer was already thrown", but she introduced what really distinguishes the firm from other great jewelers, the relationship with art. "It is what makes us different. I always had a lot of contact with artists, because as an architect I did quite a few assemblies and some very important ones. For example, a wonderful one: I had the great luck of handling 70 works by

at the Reina Sofía or the

at the Prado. I have really touched the greatest, and I have learned a lot. Inviting artists to create jewelry for Grassy is very interesting, because you also give them the opportunity to express themselves with another language. "

Right now he has just presented a collection with

to which he has been totally devoted. "I have spent many whole days in the workshops with her, because I involve the artists totally in the process and we follow it very closely. We have done it forever, I travel throughout Madrid controlling the output of the jewels," she confesses. "Nuria has told me that it has been one of the

most enriching

of her life. She makes great

and has had to change her language to the small world of jewelry, talking about tenths of a millimeter instead of meters ..., it's very nice to encourage them, "he acknowledges.

When she is not immersed in the creative process,

is in front of the public, in her jewelry store on Gran Vía. Her presence there is also very important, "because many of the people who come want to see me," she confesses. "I go to

very often, of course, but my office is in Gran Vía, one of the streets that I like the most in the world. I have a beautiful office and it seems that I am in Chicago, because the buildings of

are They look a lot like the first skyscrapers in that city. I look from my balcony and I'm there. "

For this reason and because she lives a completely urban life, Patricia is delighted to work in the heart of

.

"I walk to work every day. I live on Calle Santa Isabel and it's a pleasure, I have a coffee on the way and I have 'La Primera' as my main bar, which is right above the jewelry store. stimulating, although a little bit of quality is missing.

can coexist perfectly with an exclusive store, nothing happens, in

is like that, and in the whole world ".

Jewels that give power

And, like its jewels, the firm's loyal public has also changed. Grassy's pieces are now aimed at a younger woman -

deserve a separate mention

designed by

- and more empowered. And that Patricia loves. "I have more and more clients who come to buy jewelry for themselves, without having to give it to them. They like it, love it and buy it for them. And they feel more

doing it. Above all, there are jewelry that they wear every day. , like the basket ring, which many do not take off, is part of themselves, and that is to address another type of audience, "he says.

For this reason, he also prefers that women buy their own jewelry, "because the husband does not know, he has no idea, he always thinks he is going to make a mistake, he lacks

. However, a woman, or a There is also a man who wants to buy a jewel on himself, he tries it on, looks in the mirror, thinks about it ... it is another relationship with the object and another

that is established ".

A dialogue that his grandfather began at home, "

" the know-how of the best artisans because, as he said, nobody taught his profession. And it remains the same. "We have been working for 50 years with the best

, and it is true that it is very difficult for them to release their secret to you, it is difficult to learn, as my grandfather used to say, in that aspect and in many others, you have to go like a spy to see what you get. here or there ... "

That was one of his grandfather's teachings;

of his

, many others.

"Both were totally different. Although my father loved

and developed jewelry a lot, he was in favor of selling, and always selling the least salable; when you said 'Dad, I have sold this jewel that I just put in the window 'I answered,'

Well

, that has no merit. 'He taught me to look at

, to use a magnifying glass, to position my elbows well ... My

instilled in me more a love for antiques, for clocks We have an amazing museum with vintage clocks from his own collection. "

Arguing with the Yanes

It's been almost 20 years since she first raised her voice at

, but Patricia hasn't stopped arguing. Now he does it with his brother, also in charge of the business, and with his son, his nephew. Both are called

, the joke is served: "We argue a lot and we also tend to agree, both. When I am meeting with them I say: 'I'm with the

', and we find it very funny".

With the name of the competition, but the

continues. "In Spain jewelers are familiar. Having many generations behind gives stability and above all indicates that the business has been followed with affection and with great

, in a totally dedicated way; it is not the same to

for your own company than for another, no it has color. "

Are diamonds a woman's best friend? Not for me.

I use them very little, they are not my favorites.

There is a trend in jewelry that is to use colored stones and occasionally insert a few diamonds to increase the value of the jewel.

I never do it because it seems to me that they compete a lot.

I prefer some aquamarines or paraibas, which are a type of tourmaline that is totally depleted.

I find the diamond very beautiful, very classic, but it is not what I like the most.

Looking for a substitute

Patricia, who confesses to be a great

practitioner

, "is part of my day to day", and who loves to walk in the mountains, reveals that she still has many dreams to fulfill. Among those who can be counted, "having a cabin on an island in

", a place that he knows a lot and that he loves ". As he arrives, he assures that although he has already turned 62 he has no desire to

." In 10 years I see myself where I am now, but better, because we will have opened more businesses, which is one of our short-term projects, and I will be looking for, or will have already found, a creative director to replace the one I will be training. ".

And what characteristics should that person to replace her have? I have not thought about it yet, but I think it should be someone who breaks quite a bit with what I have done. When a new creative director enters a brand, it is very good to shake everything up, absolute continuity is not convenient, every time something new happens there has to be a small revolution. And where should that revolution go? Where does the future of jewelery walk? Because it is more linked to the times and worries about the traceability of the materials used, that both the gold and the stones have certificates that prove that they have been obtained in the best possible way. respectful with the environment and with people.Jewels are closely linked to fashion, are there also wardrobe pieces? Yes, there is always a wardrobe jewelery,what is usually the one without stones, the little gold slaves, the earrings and the super simple rings. And also the chains with clasps that can be opened where you can hang more things. And what is that infallible jewel for a special occasion? That is very difficult because it depends a lot on the people. It is the same as with clothes. There are jewels that are not made for you, that will not look good no matter how beautiful they are. And I tell my clients, I think they appreciate it, just like when you go to a store, you try on pants that fit tight and you thank the shop assistant if she tells you to take them off because you look like a sausage. .. It depends a lot on the personality. An earring that acts on the face of a ring is so different that speaks only when we move our hands ... And in its case,Which one can't you live without? Without the ring that I always wear, one that my father gave me and is part of the 60 collection, which we designed when Grassy turned 60 on Gran Vía in 2013. It is a ring that looks like Roman , very old looking, beautiful.

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