Buying clothes and accessories already released and used by someone else is a practice that in the United States has grown by
50%
in the last five years, and that this year will move more than 138,000 million euros.
By 2030, this number will almost triple.
Luis Lara, professor of Internationalization at ISEM,
provides a barrage of very significant figures: "According to a study carried out by ThredUp, an American company dedicated to the online sale of second-hand clothing, this market will grow almost
twice as fast
as the segment of the fast fashion at the end of this decade ".
DATA OF SPAIN
And in Spain?
Lara assures that there is no data, only those published by "a company, Humana, which represents a portion of the total market. In 2015, it had 40 stores that sold 2.8 million garments. In 2019, the number of items purchased amounted to
5.2 million
in 53 establishments ".
The truth is that the stores dedicated to this practice proliferate and also the consumers who approach it.
SB, 25,
has a Le Mans mechanic's overalls in his closet.
It cost 1 euro and has now become a collector's item that 90s fashionistas would be proud to have.
This is one of the fundamentals of second hand: getting parts that
would
otherwise
be impossible to get,
either because of their high price, because they are no longer made now or because of their exclusivity.
LUXURY BARGAINS
Agustín Liébana
knows this well
, owner of the Madrid store Vestiaire Vintage
and director for 20 years of the Hermès boutique in the capital.
In his establishment (Diego de León, 34) he sells second-hand luxury items.
There they can be found from the mythical Chanel 2.55 bag, which in the brand's store exceeds
4,000 euros, for 3,000
if it is in perfect condition, and for between 2,000 and 2,500 if it has any damage.
Or, the jewel in the crown, with waiting lists all over the world: the Birkin model from Hermès, which of the 9,000 euros that it costs new at Vestiaire Vintage is obtained for around 6,000.
In second-hand stores you can find accessories from luxury brands for a lower price.
But how does Liébana achieve these objects that he then puts up for sale?
Generally they come from people, as he says, "capricious, who bought and then did not put on, like those 14 pairs of brand-new Chanel shoes" that he recently received, or
"bags that a husband gave to his wife,
not her. he liked it but did not want to change it, and he has practically not used it. "
Liébana has noticed a before and after in the sale of second hand as a result of the pandemic.
As he says,
people's values have changed:
"Now people are more practical and less frivolous, it shows that there is less nonsense and also fewer social events. They spend with less joy."
Therefore, he continues, there are more people who want to sell.
AN ETHICAL ISSUE
Most of his clients have turned 50, although he also sells a lot to women in their 30s and 40s. But the second hand is not only for this type of consumer,
young people approach it for other reasons.
As SB says, "It is an
ethical question.
As it is the fashion in terms of labor rights and the environment, I prefer to buy these products instead of the new ones."
Luis Lara has an impact on this point, explaining that "second hand has skyrocketed due to causes associated with values that the customer seeks such as
reuse and recycling
against the environmental impact of buying new clothes. And perhaps also, in the consumer strata younger or with fewer resources, to focus spending on other categories of products and services. "
The
upcycling
movement
(recycle and elevate)
is also associated with this trend
, which consists of the firms themselves and designers creating collections from already used garments and fabrics.
A concept that, for Lara, allows "brands to be faithful to values related to
social impact,
which will be decisive in the future of the sector during this decade. Consequently, almost all the large companies are developing this B-side of his business, with the sale of recycled and certified second-hand products. "
According to the criteria of The Trust Project
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