Berezutskys about the tastes of childhood
- Ivan, Sergey. First of all, I want to congratulate you on two stars ...
Sergei:
Three!
Ivan:
Two Michelin stars and one green.
The most fashionable now, in fact, in the whole world.
This is for environmental friendliness, for responsibility ... An equally valuable star, believe me!
It's just that she's only been for the last two years.
- Did these stars come as a surprise to you?
Ivan:
Yes, we, to be honest, would be glad to receive any award.
We are not working to get the maximum number of stars.
We work to make our guests happy - this is the first thing.
And second ... Michelin is the most authoritative guide in the world.
We regard it as an audit.
It happens that a company conducts an audit - and Michelin enters the city and checks ...
Sergei: The
government invites him.
So he was invited to come to Moscow and assess its market, the restaurant business.
The guide came and assessed Moscow, in my opinion, very well.
- Well, did you expect to get two stars? After getting into the rating of The World's 50 Best Restaurants, probably ...
Ivan:
We wanted to see how the independent guide would rate us.
And we are happy to have received such a high rating.
Thinking ahead is not ours ...
Sergei:
Let's do it this way.
It is very rare in the world to give two stars outright.
Here, right here I went - and two stars at once.
This is very rare.
Therefore, yes, if the guide appreciated us so, it is a great joy for us.
Ivan:
This rarely happens, yes.
To have two, and also a "green" outright - this is a rarity.
- For you personally - not as entrepreneurs, not for business, not for attendance, but personally - is it important that the guide appreciated your culinary talent so much?
Sergey:
Of course it is important.
A soldier who does not dream of becoming a general is bad, right?
We are people of a creative profession, for us, of course, recognition and awards are important.
But this is not the purpose of your work - to be appreciated.
This is a consequence.
You work, independent experts come, you are evaluated.
It's great that you were so appreciated.
But this is a consequence.
And working to get stars is not a goal.
- Maybe someone's non-inclusion in the rating was a surprise for you? Maybe you think that more Moscow restaurants deserve ...
Ivan:
Forecasts are a very thankless business.
But, you know, we have our favorite in Moscow - a restaurant that, we believe, is definitely worthy of Michelin stars.
This is Semifreddo Nino Graziano.
Because Nino Graziano is a very cool chef.
We said before the ceremony that ...
Sergey: The
guide came for several years, for some period.
If someone for some reason did not get into this year, he will get into the next.
Not the next - so in a year.
Don't be upset.
The main thing is that this guide went to Russia for a long time, as it seems to us, to Moscow in this case.
If they work, make every effort, they will fall into the next.
This is just the beginning.
- And here it is very interesting to me. You yourself often go to the restaurants of your colleagues - maybe to look, evaluate the place as secret inspectors of Michelin? ..
Sergey:
We just go to restaurants.
We go to restaurants that are opening, we go to our friends, we go to colleagues.
Of course, we go to restaurants to eat and to have a good time.
Ivan:
This is part of our job.
In general, we are interested, we love going to restaurants.
It never turns out incognito.
It is very difficult to come here incognito.
- And you agree with the opinion that the Russian gastronomic scene is now experiencing a renaissance? Although was there ever such a rise in our history ...
Sergey.
In general, Russian cuisine is developing well, moving forward, becoming interesting in the world.
The fact that the Michelin guide came to Moscow, in our opinion, means that Moscow has become one of the gastronomic capitals of the world.
Immediately 69 mentions in the Michelin guide is a very good result.
Therefore, of course, now take off and rise in Moscow.
Well, in general, Russian gastronomy has been developing at a tremendous pace over the past ten years.
We harnessed for a long time and are driving fast.
- It’s probably impossible to get to you now, to book a table.
Sergey:
You know, we are often asked what happened after getting into the Michelin rating and everything else.
All the same.
The phone in the restaurant keeps ringing.
Calls constantly.
Therefore, we have three of them, telephones, and they constantly ring.
Here is the indicator of the arrival of the Michelin guide: there are bronies, bronies, and bronies all the time.
- Are you going to do something about it? Let's say, increase the seating, the number of seats.
Ivan:
No!
Look, this is the most stupid thing that can be.
We are not going to change anything.
Sergey:
Only to improve.
Ivan:
We are now going to improve a little bit more.
But to increase something and “strike while the iron is hot” is not about us.
We will not increase the seating.
We will try to do better than we did before the Michelin stars.
It was nice to be so appreciated.
Well, we'll do it even better.
But this is this: "While rushing, we must set, deliver tables" ... - this will not happen, no.
Sergey:
Besides the fact that this is recognition, it is a huge responsibility to meet the awards that the restaurant has received.
This is the most important thing.
As Gwendal Pullenec said, it doesn't matter if the stars are in Paris, Tokyo or Moscow - they are all the same.
And it is very important to match the awards that you have received.
This is a responsibility, a huge responsibility.
- How do you plan to improve now?
Sergey:
Let's do this: we will improve, and then we will tell you.
Ivan:
Yes, we will do it, and then we will tell you.
We never get ahead of ourselves.
But, let's put it this way - it won't get any worse.
We will do even better than we had before.
And we have collected, in my opinion, all the awards that are generally possible.
It will be better than it was before receiving the star.
- It turns out that you will not raise prices either.
Ivan:
Listen, a very strange question, a very strange question. Probably not very correct. Here, look. You know, you read the news that now the prices for all food products have increased. You know, yes. And now what should I do, work in the red? There is always some immediate price increase. Because everything is a product. We are forced to buy the highest quality product, the highest quality. And, naturally, it has some kind of cost.
Look, I will draw a line that is very important for everyone who will watch you to understand.
This line is as follows.
There will be no increase in prices due to the quick grabbing.
Due to the fact that prices for some products have increased, and prices for super-quality products will subsequently increase ... if we understand that we do not fit into some of our financial model, we will raise it.
But prices will rise in connection with the cost of directly purchasing the products.
And not with the aim of getting rich.
Sergey:
Let's go in parallel.
So, before receiving the Michelin stars, for example, in this restaurant the prices were the same as after - now.
You come now - the prices are the same as they were before receiving.
Ivan:
But talking about the prospect someday ... A very long period of time.
- I understand you. You are saying that if it does, it has nothing to do with Michelin stars.
Ivan:
Yes, not associated with Michelin stars.
This will only be related to prices.
Sergei:
Well, so far they are the same as they were before.
- Fine. You, of course, will also keep the menu a secret for now?
Ivan:
Well, we don't even know yet.
We always change - you know, the creative moment.
They found some product, some ...
Sergey:
Seasonality is important.
The stars and everything else are not important here, the seasonality of the products is important.
Now is the season of some products - they are on the menu.
In the summer, other foods are a different menu.
The next season has come - the products change again, depending on the season.
Ivan:
By the way, if we think logically, we got two stars with this, also a "green" one.
Here with this.
It is probably stupid to radically change something now.
But we will make some improvements.
- I also want to ask you about finances. Business has been hit hard by the coronavirus. How much have you suffered? Did you have to resort to some not very good measures - staff layoffs, for example?
Ivan:
All the employees in this restaurant will tell you that no one was laid off, everyone was paid a salary ...
Sergey:
Look, the most important thing for us in a restaurant and in general is people.
Not the walls get two stars, not the equipment, not the hall.
People get the highest marks.
And the most important thing is to keep those people who have received these awards.
Not the walls get, not the restaurant, not the place, not the beautiful dishes.
The people who get the stars, those who do this business, those who lead the restaurant to such a success.
It was important for us to keep the team in the pandemic.
And perhaps the biggest reward is that we managed to retain the entire staff of the restaurant so that these people could achieve heights with us.
The people and the team are of the greatest value to us.
Twins Garden restaurant interior
© twinsgarden.ru
- Before the pandemic, you had plans to develop agritourism. You haven't given up on them?
Sergey:
It's all there, it's all in development.
Of course, some of our plans, development, this pandemic slows down.
But we have not given up on them.
- Do you set any deadlines for reaching them?
Sergey:
Listen, we don't know if we will be quarantined tomorrow or not ...
Ivan: There are
plans, we have not abandoned them.
It's just that these restrictions are making temporary adjustments.
But there are plans, everything is moving, developing.
- We just met at such a difficult time, when everything starts to close again ...
Ivan:
Here, you understand.
How can we plan something?
- Perhaps you have some kind of strategy, plan, what to do in such cases?
Sergei:
Listen, we don't know.
Now let's see what they tell us.
Ivan:
How long we will be closed.
Sergei:
Here, they will announce - we will somehow adjust.
We will act according to the situation.
And make solutions to problems as they come.
(After the interview, it became known that the work of restaurants in Moscow was suspended for 11 days. - RT)
- When people were released after the first lockdown, did you have a full house? It seemed that people were so hungry ...
Ivan:
In principle, we will never sit down in the evening.
But I can say one thing.
After the lockdown, when it was all over, people went to restaurants.
I also remember that only the terrace worked for us ... I have not seen happier people.
Honestly.
It was happiness that they had the opportunity to finally come to a restaurant, eat, drink wine.
It was happiness.
The people were super happy, very happy.
- And you were probably happy.
Ivan:
We were happy.
They were happy.
It was, you know, a happy time, very happy.
People were so sincerely happy about it, you have no idea ...
Sergei:
And we were glad that the guests came.
- And this story with QR codes ... Did many visitors come to you by them?
Ivan:
Of course, there was an outflow.
But now, I think, if it is introduced again, there will be more people.
Because there are already more people vaccinated.
- Are you going to move in a different, teaching direction? Perhaps, open a gastronomic school.
Ivan:
School is, of course, great.
But it takes a lot of time.
We did, in my opinion, an unprecedented thing two years ago.
We took Twins Science, a festival where we brought together the best scientists in the world and the best chefs in the world.
A very cool festival, world class, absolutely.
Because top chefs and top scientists have arrived.
We made it free.
Everyone could come.
Not only a chef who earns money, but cooks, ordinary guys with a very small salary could come and listen to lectures by top chefs and the best scientists in the world related to food.
Cooking is also a science.
And we made it free.
People came and listened to the best chefs and the best scientists.
It cost us money, of course.
Sergei:
It was a good educational school, so to speak.
In which they could get an education, reboot completely in a few days ...
- Is this a one-off event?
Ivan:
We plan to do more for the future.
But…
Sergey:
We have some limitations.
Ivan:
These restrictions ... You understand everything.
We hope that we will also repeat this event in the future.
- Yes, any topic in our country leads to the coronavirus, which does not allow us to fully implement our plans.
Sergey:
I think this is the case everywhere, in any business.
But the most important thing is that we work.
Therefore, everything is fine.
- I overheard that you are even leaving for Austria.
Ivan:
Yes, we are going to Austria.
Sergey:
Well, by the way, we are often invited to various world congresses.
The cooks' congresses at which we speak, talk about Russian cuisine, about Russian products.
We bring our products, show, tell.
About Russian gastronomy, about products, about development.
Ivan:
We are doing what we want to make Russian cuisine known all over the world.
And we go, tell, show.
We'll tell you what's new.
This is important, do you understand?
And it's good that this is happening.
We are called somewhere.
- You will probably be called on tour even more often now.
Ivan:
We have always had a very busy schedule for tours, specifically for dinners.
But we rarely go.
Well, how rare is it?
Not more than once a month for sure.
Because there is a restaurant where we focus on quality.
It doesn't matter, no matter how cool you are, you are judged by what you do, what you created.
And not because you hung some medals on yourself.
We always say that the main thing is to create a product by which you will be judged.
- And I have one last question for you - readers and viewers will be interested. Name three of your favorite foods.
Sergey:
All our tastes, in any case, are drawn from childhood.
Borscht made by grandmother.
You can't eat borscht better, because your tastes are all brought up from childhood.
This is the most delicious borscht in the world.
Mom prepares an amazing adjika.
And number three is chocolate.
Dark chocolate, delicious.
I can eat it for breakfast, lunch, dinner, and before bed, and always ...
Ivan:
I will add.
We grew up in the south, and we had a summer cottage (we know what quality vegetables are!).
And we had a lot of cucumbers during the season.
And mom and grandmother canned cucumbers.
This is something unreal, I can tell you!
In winter, when you open these cans ... It's just unrealistic.
Sergei and I could eat a three-liter bottle together and be happy people.
White bread.
You know, now this is no longer to be found.
There used to be such a brick.
The guys know.
It's just crazy bread, unreal ...
Sergey:
When it's baked, it's crusty.
Ivan:
Crust.
Rub it with garlic.
And this is just generally unrealistic thing.
And cookies.
Cookies ... we helped mom.
Because of this, of course, the love for the kitchen began.
We loved helping mom.
Mom bakes great.
She cooks deliciously, of course, everything.
But baking is just a super level.
And so, cookies, it means that the dough had to be rolled through a meat grinder.
You scroll - it turned out to be of some interesting shape - and we, therefore, put it on a baking sheet and then baked it in an ordinary oven.
Sergey:
This is the simple thing that we could do when we were very young.
Ivan:
And we twisted, so, and laid out.
This is the taste that you probably remember all your life.
Sergey:
When fresh baked goods have just taken out of the oven, they smell unreal ...
Ivan:
You see, we are very much talking about simple tastes.
Sergey:
But all our tastes are formed from childhood.
Ivan:
They are formed ... and your tastes, too, are formed in childhood.
We can layer it, try something ... talk about having tried a lot of things.
But the most beloved is something that is connected not only with taste, but with some kind of warm memories that converge around it.
We talk a lot with guests, ask what is important to them, what taste, or something that they love the most.
And, of course, the taste ... not only “tasty, tasteless”.
But this is also connected with emotions, with the warmth that was around when you tried this product.
This is an important point.
Sergey:
And memories.
- Weren't you tempted to put these products on the menu?
Ivan:
Adjika is on the menu.
Sergey:
Adjika is on the menu, yes.
Liquid like that.
Ivan:
Kuban.
Then, at one time we had pickled tomatoes.
We call mom, say: “Mom, listen, we remember from childhood, we ate them, give me a recipe.
We will make these tomatoes in winter. ”
We even gave recipes to some magazines.
This recipe is just space!
In winter, we periodically put these tomatoes on the menu.
They are simply unreal.
And this is also a recipe that goes back to childhood.
Garlic bread, bread with garlic - we also have it.
Well ... fashionably cooked, of course cool.
Another point is that you all have this favorite taste too.
You know, tomatoes are seasoned with sour cream.
And this juice drained from tomatoes and sour cream ...
- And some more bread there.
Ivan:
Everyone knows!
This is generally a painful point.
And we also have this juice on the menu.
It's just native, do you understand?
When I didn't finish, I put it in the refrigerator, all glass.
And then you bread ... This is very familiar, very close, beloved by all.
See how everyone reacted!
Therefore, these things, dear and beloved, are also present in the menu.
We try not to forget about them.