- Moscow restaurants received their first Michelin stars. How and when did the Michelin team become interested in Russian gastronomy and why did you wait so long before heading to Russia, to Moscow?
- First of all, to Moscow, because this is a project on which we have been working for more than five years, starting from the very first trips of our inspectors here.
Five years have passed.
And in recent years, our inspectors have been able to note that the Moscow gastronomic scene is really developing.
At the same time, we are talking about high-quality, truly diverse products, and an increasing number of restaurant concepts, as well as chefs who have their own style and are often inspired by their roots and the history of Russian cuisine, which they interpret in their own way.
This is real creativity and often a modern and at the same time very international approach.
- And watching this development, you came to the idea that you need to go here, get a closer look at what is happening in Russia?
- As in the case of other destinations, the decision to single out Moscow this year was the choice of the Michelin guide's inspectors.
The fact that the guide was released this year is also explained by the fact that in Russia and especially in Moscow, restaurants have remained open for the most part, despite the coronavirus crisis.
Elsewhere, restaurants have often been closed — at least for a longer period of time.
Therefore, we were able, fully observing our methods, to carry out work on this sample.
And we decided to do this also because the gastronomic scene of Moscow today is very dynamic and, as I have said many times, we believe that this first edition is not only the beginning of the history of the Michelin guide in Moscow, but also the beginning of the development of the art of living. in Moscow and, possibly, the next stage - in Russia.
- Does the gastronomic scene in Russia and, above all, in Moscow, have its own characteristics in comparison with other cities in the world?
- To be honest, there is a very wide variety of products, because Moscow is a real intersection of roads, a place where different influences and different cultures have crossed.
This is a real confusion.
There is a wide variety of different types of cuisine here.
There is both local cuisine and world cuisines.
In Moscow, you can, in a sense, taste all the cuisines of the world.
And then: this is a cuisine in which Russian chefs really put their individuality.
The result is culinary experimentation that stands out from everything else.
They are based primarily on local products, but in a very special way and a very individual interpretation.
I am truly convinced that Moscow can bring its own special flavor to the international culinary scene.
- Do they know Russian cuisine abroad, are there many restaurants of Russian cuisine in the world?
- I think that today this fame is probably not yet at the level that characterizes the gastronomic life, which can be found in Moscow, but I hope that the Michelin guide will shed light on this cuisine (or rather, these kitchens, there is a great variety here), and, again, will help to continue to develop the culinary landscape in Moscow for international and local clientele.
- We often speak of French gastronomy as exemplary. Does it really affect other countries and, in particular, Russia?
- I really think that there is a special connection between France and Russia - historical first of all, but also cultural, which we find reflected, in particular, in the kitchen - given the exchange of chefs, as well as cooking methods and culinary techniques between France and Russia ...
Then, as you know, in France they often resort to the Russian method of serving, as it is commonly called.
That is, this is no longer the traditional serving that existed in France in the 17th century.
This is illustrated by the mixed cultural heritage of France and Russia.
- Is the quality of service comparable to that which exists, for example, in France?
“We see that over the past few years, the quality of service has continued to improve, and it is more and more in line with international standards.
This service is rather casual, informal, but what we really liked here - I am speaking now on behalf of our inspectors - is that going to a restaurant in Russia is always a real holiday.
- Often meals are served at the same time. In France, where appetizers are served first, then the main course, then dessert, they are not used to this. I wonder how the inspectors reacted to this? Did they appreciate the originality of this approach? Or are they still guided by the French standard?
“Michelin guide inspectors today are people of more than 15 different nationalities, from the United States to Japan.
The key element, the main value in relation to the inspector, is true openness of thinking, that is, the ability to discover the best and appreciate talent regardless of form, regardless of the type of cuisine in which it is found.
And inspectors throughout the year, even during one trip, have the opportunity to visit very simple restaurants and much more luxurious ones, as well as try very different styles - from traditional cuisine to modern, much more creative ones.
So no, they will by no means be tied to a particular style of service.
They will focus all their attention on the highest quality of what is on their plate.
- Are there any French chefs among those who received a Michelin star in a Moscow guide?
- Yes, there are several French chefs among them, as well as French cuisine restaurants that were recommended in this first guide to Moscow.
- In France, some chefs give up their star. What do you think about this?
- Stars are awarded primarily for the clientele, this is a recommendation for clients.
In fact, they cannot be discarded in the sense that they are a distinction awarded by Michelin.
- How is the awarding of stars and their recall, what are the criteria and how does this process work?
- Everywhere in the world, stars are awarded in the same way, we assess according to five criteria.
This is the quality of the products, the mastery of culinary techniques, the harmony of tastes, the individuality of the chef in the form in which it appears in the dishes, that is, his style, the experience that he makes you live, and, finally, stability.
These are five fundamental criteria that we apply throughout the world.
Our team of inspectors visit onsite restaurants anonymously for an authentic customer experience.
And all decisions are made collectively with the aim of agreeing the points of view and comparing the different points of view of inspectors who have different professional experience, and, often, they are people of different nationalities.
- Does the value of Michelin stars differ from country to country?
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The fact that our inspectors travel a lot, and that the same method is applied everywhere, should ensure that the gourmet can trust the recommendations of the Michelin guide, because they are of equal value in Paris, Berlin, Tokyo, Moscow ...
- Returning to the question of the pandemic, did the inspectors face the closure of restaurants in Moscow? After all, many establishments had to close.
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In Moscow, as elsewhere in the world, we had to adapt to the situation, because the pandemic had a very strong impact on tourism, had a very strong impact on the restaurant industry.
This manifested itself in different ways in different countries, but yes - some establishments were closed, it was necessary to comply with sanitary standards, sometimes restrictions were imposed on movement at the international level, and sometimes at the regional or even local level.
Therefore, for our inspectors, the implementation of this guide required a lot of investment.
It was a very special project, but we tried to adapt to the situation in order to make a choice that could be trusted as much as the choice of restaurants we offer in other countries.
- What impact do you think this Michelin guide will have on the development of Russian gastronomy in Moscow and in the world?
“We really think this first sample is just the first step.
We would very much like this to stimulate the development and upsurge in the gastronomic art of life in Moscow, creating rivalry between chefs and their teams and pushing them to offer all the best gastronomic experiences, but also create additional attractiveness for local or foreign customers to bring this dynamic.
And we are confident that over the years the Moscow culinary scene, which is already very dynamic, will continue to accelerate its development.
- Do you think that the new Michelin guide will have a significant impact on tourism, and foreign gourmets will come to Moscow?
- I will be careful in my forecasts, but we think that this can really affect the situation, since such events are useful for the image of the tourist destination.
Traveling here can bring a distinctive culinary experience, and it is an additional motivation for travelers.
In addition, we believe that it can help add value to Moscow as a tourist destination by increasing loyalty from tourists and providing people with additional motivation to travel.
- Do you notice any similarities or differences between clients, for example, from Russia and France?
- What struck me most in recent years is that the demand and clientele in restaurants in Moscow are changing: customers are becoming, I would say, more and more informed, demanding ... They pay more and more attention to the quality of what is on their plate - the quality and origin of the products.
There is a tendency towards greater responsibility, interest in sustainable development.
- Are you already considering candidates for specific cities for the release of the next guide?
“We have on-site inspectors around the world who continue to monitor the development of culinary practices.
We have a lot of ideas, a lot of projects, but so far I cannot confirm any specific directions for the next few months.