(Qing Dynasty) Jin Tingbiao's "Lady Hairpin Picture" axis
On November 22, 2003, a netizen in Hanfu (the net name Zhuangzhi Lingyun, whose real name is Wang Letian) appeared on the streets of Zhengzhou, Henan. He was photographed by a passing Singaporean reporter. Based on this, he wrote a report "Hanfu Reappears on the Street", which caused Strong response.
The praiser said that the resumption of Hanfu reflects cultural self-confidence.
The player said it was like singing, meaningless.
I am afraid that Wang Letian did not expect that more than a decade later, there will be more than 6 million Hanfu fans, with a market value of over 10 billion yuan.
With the rapid expansion of the "Hanfu fans" group, it has also triggered internal divisions-the retro school and the development school have the same momentum, reflecting the confusion of the concept of Hanfu itself.
What is Hanfu?
Is Hanfu equal to national clothes?
Does the revival of Hanfu mean the revival of tradition?
Does Hanfu need further development?
With such a long history of Chinese clothing, what can represent Hanfu?
Whether Hanfu can adapt to modern society...There are many doubts, and no consensus has been reached so far.
Hanfu can be hot, relying on two points:
First, the sub-cultural circle has risen due to the birth of the Internet. Various Hanfu videos allow young people to see the beauty of Hanfu intuitively and are attracted by it.
Second, the popularity of costume online dramas has activated people's imagination of tradition.
The resulting problem is that although Hanfu is hot, it is the Hanfu in modern performances, not the real Hanfu. Even the concept of Hanfu is virtual, and its historical legitimacy is difficult to establish.
Therefore, it is necessary to sort out the history of Hanfu.
The ancients didn’t know what Hanfu was
There is still controversy about when Hanfu originated.
"Zhou Yi·Ci Ci" stated: "Yao and Shun of the Yellow Emperor hang down his clothes and rule the world."
In "Zhou Li·Chun Official", the emperor's clothing is stipulated as six crowns and four bends, "For all soldiers, Wei Bian obeys. According to the direction, Pi Bian obeys. Fandian, crown Bian obeys. For all evil things, obey Bian obey." .
That is to say, you usually wear leather suits in the office, that is, a deerskin hat, white cloth, and plain clothes.
In addition, "Distinguish the fate of the husband from the outside and the inside, the fate of the wife, the meritorious celebrity, and the scattered celebrities. The sacrifices in the four seasons should be served." That is, the consecrated wife (titled woman) must wear shoes according to the regulations.
However, in the Spring and Autumn Period, these rules have become empty words.
According to "Mozi", Qi Huangong "high crown belt" (wearing a high hat and wearing a wide belt), Jin Wengong "big cloth (wide homespun) clothing, hydroxy (sound like a gun, is a kind of precious sheep) "Fur of Sheep", the king of Chuzhuang "Xian Guan Zuying (glossy hat, tied to the head with a rope), crimson robe (red robe)", Goujian "worn tattoo".
There is no trace of the etiquette system at all.
In the literature, the earliest record of Hanfu comes from the Western Han Dynasty bamboo slips unearthed at Mawangdui, namely: "Four beauties, two of them are in Chu clothing, and two of them are in Hanfu." Here, Hanfu is relative to Chu clothing, both of them. It is "quyue", which combines clothes and clothes into one, also known as "deep clothes".
"Quju" was originally the Qin system and was inherited by the Han Dynasty. It was lost during the Wei and Jin Dynasties. It was once revived in the Song Dynasty, but it was regarded as "Fu Yao" (the clothing that caused the country's subjugation) and was strictly forbidden.
It can be seen that in ancient times, Hanfu was a vague concept, and different people had different understandings of it in different periods.
Under normal circumstances, the term Hanfu is used only when it is different from others.
Formal dresses are different from generation to generation
China has a vast territory, straddling the three climate categories of frigid zone, temperate zone and subtropical zone. The living conditions vary from place to place, so dresses are bound to be different.
Even formal dresses are different from generation to generation.
"Hanfu fans" often say that Hanfu has two major traditions: one is "the upper garment under the clothes", and the other is the right gusset (the left front flap is pressed on the right flap).
Misunderstanding that it is a "unique cultural gene", this understanding is incorrect.
First of all, the "top clothes and lower clothes" originate from the actual needs of life, not special designs.
From the unearthed statues of the Shang Dynasty, it can be seen that there are many figures with "coats and skirts", which seems to be in line with the tradition.
In fact, this is a last resort.
Until the Spring and Autumn Period, the Central Plains still had no trousers, and only "shin clothes" on the lower body, similar to modern leg guards, until the knees.
Therefore, the lower body needs to wear clothes (similar to a skirt) to protect against the cold and shame.
The clothes are short, and they will run out if you are not careful, so the "Book of Rites" stipulates: "Should not be used in the heat (pronounced like to pull, meaning to lift up) clothes, and the lower part of the body will be exposed."
When Wang Wuling of Zhao Wuling was riding and shooting, he dismissed the "top clothes and lower clothes": "The first king is different from the vulgar, what ancient method? The emperor does not attack each other, how to follow the ritual? The equipment is convenient for each."
Secondly, in the unearthed statues of the Shang and Zhou dynasties, there are left gussets, right gussets, and opposite breasts.
Confucius once said: "The micro tube is in the middle, I was given the left gusset." It was misread as the nomad Zuo gusset and the Central Plains right gusset by later generations. This is a rule of etiquette since ancient times.
In fact, the "Book of Rites" clearly states: "Small and large, the sacrificial clothing does not fall, all left gussets." It may be different from the sacrificial rituals, and it is more convenient. There are more right gussets in daily life. More left gussets.
It can be seen that the left gusset and the right gusset have nothing to do with whether it is Hanfu or not.
It’s true tradition to be able to eat Baijiafan
In history, Central Plains clothing has continuously absorbed foreign culture, and it has been difficult to clearly distinguish the difference between Han clothing and Hu clothing.
During the Eastern Jin Dynasty, Ge Hong said: "Since the chaos, things have changed repeatedly, wearing clothes, arranging the wealth (cutting) system, changing the sun and the moon, and there is no certainty. , Flickering thick and thin, adornment is impermanent, and the same is fast."
Under the impact of nomadic culture, trouser pleats (fat pants, originally military uniforms), crotch (equivalent to today's waistcoat), half-sleeved shirts, etc. were integrated into Hanfu.
In the early Han Dynasty, the trousers had no crotch and were tied around the waist with a rope. By the time of Emperor Zhaodi of the Han Dynasty (reigned from 87 BC to 74 BC), they had crotch, but they were not stitched, and they were called "Qianglong".
"Book of Jin" records that scholar Guo Pu went to Yuecheng (now part of Nanjing City), "when a person called his name, he was left behind with trousers".
It can be seen that Jiangnan just accepted the crotch pants at that time.
In the Tang Dynasty, round-necked clothes, leather boots, and Lei Lei (the sound of Lei Lei is like a dense veil hanging around the hat to cover her face. Ancient costume films were often used by women in ancient costumes. In fact, the noble women in the Tang Dynasty would usually use them when they travel), 躞 (the small hook on the belt) , Can carry daily necessities) and so on are all from Hufu.
Women's men's clothing is also nonsense.
Shen Kuo in the Song Dynasty wrote: "Chinese clothing has been worn since the Northern Qi Dynasty. It has narrow-sleeved crimson green, short coat, long boots, and laces, all of which are also worn by Hu. Narrow sleeves are good for galloping, short boots and boots. It’s all easy to wading."
Even the Southern Song Dynasty, which was repeatedly humiliated by foreigners, was trying to absorb foreign cultures.
The famous minister Fan Chengda’s "Lan Yi Lu" contains: "The worst is clothes and the like. The system is all Hu Jin, and it has been anywhere from the north of Huaihe River."
In the "Continued Zizhi Tongjian", in the Southern Song Dynasty Xiaozong's four years of main road (1168), a minister said: Le, the minister mourned the grief. The scholars of the Central Plains extended their heads to the heels of their enterprises, and those who wanted to see the system of the Central Capital were not available for 30 to 40 years. However, the people of the southeast were against the habits of the other side without knowing it."
Zhu Yuanzhang often wears a melon hat
Perhaps it is really unclear which is considered Hufu and which is considered Hanfu. Nowadays, "Hanfu fans" mostly honor the traditional clothing of the Song and Ming dynasties.
Song Ming had serious foreign troubles, and the Central Plains concept was relatively strong.
Song Huizong issued an edict on many occasions to strictly prohibit Hu clothing: "Recently, there are people of foreign descent in the capital who wear felt hats, war robes, and tie belts, etc. Kaifeng government should strictly prohibit them." "Dare to do." The Khitan suits such as felt hats and gouduns (a kind of women's boots and pants) are against the theory of imperial writing."
In order to ban Hufu, Song Huizong even said, "The law of the first king is bad, China is chaotic, and then he obeys Hufu, he has been practising for a long time, people are not ashamed, there is no ban before, and the way of changing the barbarian in Xia must be used."
As for the early Ming Dynasty, the grassland culture was deliberately obscured through "de-yuanization".
Zhu Yuanzhang ordered the ban on the surname of Hu, and even the surname of Gongsun, must change the surname to Sun, and ban Hu language and Hu clothing, so as to "inherit the Zhou system and take the Tang and Song dynasties."
But under strict orders, the emperor of the Ming Dynasty did not know that the big hats, cymbal hats, felt hats, and melon hats all came from the grassland.
Ming Taizu Zhu Yuanzhang also gave Gupi hat a new name-"Liuheyi unified hat".
According to the "Yuzhang Manchao" record: "The small hat worn by people today is seamed with six petals and decorated with eaves like a tube. Fuhong Yan Xian said that it was made by Taizu, and it was said that Liuheyi unified Yuner." In fact, the people of the Ming Dynasty also knew that such a statement was unreliable. Jin Xueyan, a famous minister of Jiajing, wrote: "The hat of the Yuan Dynasty must be round and six-petal."
In addition, the Yuan Dynasty's quality sun clothing (the upper garment and the lower garment were combined into one, and the Jinyiwei was changed into a flying fish dress), the chest and back (that is, the tonic on the official uniform, which is controversial), the bijia (cotton shawl), and the Guardian (approximately the half-sleeved vest), etc., were all inherited by the Ming Dynasty.
Reflects the flexibility of the ancients: instead of sticking to moral principles, blindly "notifying fame and prestige", but also attaching great importance to practicality.
Why Zhang Taiyan wears a suit
In 1644, the Qing army entered the Pass. By 1646, Jiangnan was basically calmed down, so it strengthened "Naru (Tong "shave") to make easy clothes, as in the "Donghua Lu": "Today, the world is one family, how can it be violated? However, from now on, inside and outside of the capital, you will have to make your hair out within ten days." While you are in hair, you must change your clothes—formal attire in the Ming Dynasty is basically banned.
As early as the second year of Chongde (1637), Huang Taiji issued an order: "Our country uses riding and shooting as an industry. If we are scornful of the customs of the Han people and don't kiss the bow and arrow, why should we use military equipment? The old Jin Xizong followed the Han customs. , Serving Han's clothes and forgetting the native language, Taizu and Taizong's karma declined."
It can be seen that "Nafa easy service" is a long-term strategy.
As for the "ten follow the ten not" (male, health, yang, official, old, Confucian, prostitution, official, national title, service tax must be followed; female, death, Yin, Li, Shao, Buddhism, actor, marriage, The official name and language are not acceptable), which comes from the unofficial history, which is not enough to rely on.
In the late Qing Dynasty, people with lofty ideals embarked on the road of self-improvement against the Qing Dynasty. They unearthed, promoted, and even fabricated them to arouse national sentiments. They also used shaved hair and cross-dress to express their determination to resist.
In 1900, Zhang Taiyan learned that the Eight-Power Allied Forces had attacked Beijing in Tokyo. He believed that the Qing Dynasty was dead. Slightly closer, although the clothes are narrow and small, the gussets are straight down, just like the deep clothes of ancient times, but the Japan of our own, also imitates Yan, the cover of the clothes is not different from the clothes of the chopsticks."
It means that a suit is approximately equal to the deep clothing of ancient China, and Japan has also adopted it. Wearing it is the same as wearing a Buddha robe.
Under the encouragement of Zhang Taiyan and others, the suit was accepted by the revolutionaries.
After the Revolution of 1911, the government of the Republic of China officially announced the use of suits as dresses for men and women.
In 1918, it was changed into a tunic suit.
The tunic suit was made by Mr. Sun Yat-sen's order of the businessman Huang Longsheng, based on the Japanese student suit. It is still a suit.
Short brown deserves more attention
After 1918, Chinese tunic suits and cheongsam were once regarded as national clothes, especially cheongsam. After many transformations, they can be completely regarded as Hanfu. However, like the later Tang suits, they were rejected by "Hanfu fans" because they contained Qing Dynasty elements.
Thus, Song and Ming costumes became Hanfu. It has a gorgeous shape and distinctive aesthetic style, but it has never attracted the attention of international fashion designers. This may be related to the misunderstanding of kimono by "Hanfu fans".
On the surface, Japan has not given up on kimono while accepting suits.
The scholar Zhang Xiaoyue pointed out in "The Status Quo and Problems of Hanfu Movement" that the "uniformization" of adult-style kimono was completed in the middle and late 1970s, while the adult festival was officially formulated in 1948. The retention of kimono is due to the needs of actual life. Tradition and strengthening national consciousness don't mean much.
Today, Japanese kimonos are mostly "small sleeves", not noble clothes, but small businessmen's clothes, which is convenient for life.
In contrast, today's Hanfu is more difficult to integrate into work and life except for a few scenes such as sacrifices, outings, and photography.
Too much emphasis on historical inheritance, ignoring practicality, foreign users, designers, etc. cannot participate.
Just play by yourself, others will limit yourself if they don't blend in.
In fact, Hanfu has a convenient version, which is short brown (sounds the same as the vertical crane).
The short should be written as 裋 (sound vertical), which means the vertical cut of brown cloth. It is "the clothing of labor, short and narrow." The ancients said "Zhuzi", which refers to the child or servant who wears brown.
However, in the film and television series, the brown design is not glamorous, and the characters with brown are not the protagonists, which gives people poor hints.
Young people like ancient costume style, which has become a trend in the past 20 years.
Everything in the world has shortcomings and shortcomings, but to do good things, do not ask about the future, and do it with enthusiasm is worthy of encouragement.
If you can reduce your impetuosity and get more ground, I believe that the future Hanfu will be more brilliant.
Cai Hui