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And the train made its way. It dawns at the old La Fregeneda station within the Arribes Natural Park. This is the starting point of a route that weaves the nostalgia of the railroad with a breathtaking landscape. Visitors have one hour, between 7:30 and 8:30 in the morning, to parade through an old locomotive where the tickets are punched and the last instructions are given: You have to put on a
reflective vest
. Check that
the flashlight
works
. Make sure you bring enough water.
What awaits about 500 meters away is a unique walking tour in Spain.
A 17-kilometer trail, inaugurated this spring, along the old routes of the
historic Duero Line
, the industrial and cross-border jewel that crossed between 1883 and 1887 this exceptional place that today, in addition to being a natural park, is a
Biosphere Reserve
.
The iron bridges that mark the route SERGIO GONZÁLEZ VALERO
The
Iron Road
is a colossal work of engineering. A succession of 20 tunnels and ten bridges, some of the Eiffel school, which runs alongside the impressive cliffs drilled by the
Águeda river
just before its mouth in the Duero. In 2021 you will no longer hear the roar of wagons or steam engines, but these tracks come back to life thanks to a cleaning and restoration that has lasted
three years
and that gives the hiker a thrilling adventure. It is perhaps the best thing that has happened in this European Year of the Railroad.
The Camino starts strong.
When the light of day has not yet finished, you have entered
Tunnel number 1
without realizing it
, the longest of the itinerary.
The end is clearly seen, framed in a perfect arc, but that does not take away even one of its
1,500 meters in length from
the dark passageway.
Do not forget the recommendations: "Through the tunnels, it is better to go through the middle".
Bypassing the cliffs of the Águeda river SERGIO GONZÁLEZ VALERO
At this point the pharaonic work of this risky railway began, which in 2000 was declared an Asset of Cultural Interest. The tremendous difficulties of the terrain did not deter the bankers and merchants of Porto who promoted and built the railway between La Fuente de Santa Esteban and Barca d'Alva seeking that
longed-for exit to Europe.
"It was an epic story with the blow of a hole," says Maribel Bartol, one of the Salamanca Provincial Council technicians that has promoted the new Camino de Hierro until its inauguration.
The old line served as a freight train, but also a
passenger and mail train
between these towns in Salamanca, close to Portugal but far from everything.
In the 50s of the last century it passed into the hands of Renfe until it closed permanently in 1985 due to lack of profitability.
The Morgáez river and walkers on the path SERGIO GONZÁLEZ VALERO
You have to be from this empty Spain today to understand what the rebirth of the last 17 kilometers of the road means, even for tourist purposes. "For us, the Camino del Hierro has always been the eternal hope. When it arrived we did not believe it," says Maribel, who was born in Hinojosa de Duero and grew up riding the train. "We are
excited and expectant
about the opportunities that may come." Judging by the numbers that the first months show, the bet on the route has been worth it with an average of 145 visitors a day. That, despite the fact that it has still barely been made known.
It is true that it is not an itinerary for all audiences. It takes an average of
six hours
to cover the distance that separates the La Fregeneda station from the Vega Terrón dock, the beginning and end of the route. Of course, the experience is full of singularities. Once you have passed Tunnel number 1, what appears is a
natural spectacle
where time seems to have not passed. To the left, at the bottom of the cut appears the Morgáez river.
Absolutely nothing is heard
other than Nature
.
Holm oaks, junipers, fig trees and prickly pears embrace the tracks.
Attentive you have to be in the sky to spot griffon vultures and Egyptian vultures.
Also on the ground: watch out for the sleepers and ballast that ask the walker for skill.
Nothing to do with how it was when they started cleaning it three years ago.
"It was a jungle. In many places you couldn't even see the tracks."
With a flashlight in one of the twenty tunnels on the route SERGIO GONZÁLEZ VALERO
The
Tunnel No. 3
has its one. It is home to one of the
most important
bat colonies
in the Peninsula. This summer, the road was closed to the public during the breeding season. Being curved, the 3 offers
total darkness.
"Do not worry. They are hanging, in their own way. They do not throw themselves to the jugular or anything," our guide jokes. But you can hear them whistling, boy can you hear them whistling. The reward on the other side is the appearance of
the Águeda river
, boxed in on the left side, which will accompany us to the end of the road. By the way, the trail is one way. Once completed, some vans are responsible for taking visitors back to the starting point.
The Vega Terrón river dock, end of the Camino.SERGIO GONZÁLEZ VALERO
Route through the region
What does not end with the roads are the claims of the area.
Do not do like the current Count of Lumbrales -a title that was granted to the Portuguese Ricardo Pinto da Costa, the promoter of the railway line-, who has never passed through
Lumbrales.
And that the House of his ancestor, modernist style, is one of the must-see stops.
Carmen, owner of Quinta las Velas winery, SERGIO GONZÁLEZ VALERO
The residents of
Ahigal de los Aceiteros
seduce the traveler with a triple proposal: a visit to the ecological oil mill
Aceiteros del Águeda
, where Loli, the producer, will explain how they make an extra virgin with a native (and unique) variety, the
thrush
of Arribes. And a tasting at
Quinta las Velas
, the winery
owned by
neighbors Carmen and Enrique who have reintroduced the
bruñal grape
, also unique to this land and framed in the Arribes del Duero Designation of Origin. The finishing touch is a meal with local products at the
Posada de los Aceiteros
.
One of those essential delicacies of the Arribes is cheese.
To check it out, head to
Hinojosa de Duero
.
In the
Artisan Cheese Factory Cynara
receives Isabel, eager to tell her the tributes of the raw sheep's milk cheeses that her family has made since 2000. "She has been dreaming of the road since it closed, but you have to consume something more than landscape", points with good reason.
The artisan cheese factory Cynara SERGIO GONZÁLEZ VALERO
What is not lacking is not heritage either.
San Felices de los Gallegos
, a historical complex, holds the title of the most beautiful town of the year in Castilla y León.
To explore this medieval town there is nothing like taking the guided tour that starts from the Town Hall.
You have to stop at the convent of the Augustinian Mothers who, by the way, sell their traditional sweets.
Also in the oil museum,
'El lagar del Mudo
', a real surprise.
It is undeniable to climb the keep of its unbeatable castle and glimpse at sunset this
spectacular territory
in the confines.
San Felices de los Gallegos from the castle tower.
PRACTICAL GUIDE
How to get.
By train to Salamanca city and from there by car on the CL-517 towards Portugal.
Where to sleep.
In the rural hotel Mesa del Conde, in the medieval town of San Felices de los Gallegos.
With restaurant.
From 60 euros per night.
Where to eat.
Local flavors of Arribes at
Posada de los Aceiteros
, an old house in Ahigal de los Aceiteros, and at
El rincón charro
, in Lumbrales.
More information
.
On the official website of the Camino de Hierro (www.caminodehierro.es) and on the Salamanca Tourism website (www.salamancaemocion.es).
Also at www.clubviajerosarribes.com to organize the getaway.
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