It is still curious that nothing else started in the 70s,
Zandra Rhodes
triumphed with a series of garments that evoked the country style with an exotic oriental touch, bright, multicolored and spacious, and that in the middle of 2021 the same British designer had collaborated with
Ikea
in a collection of accessories for the home that bears, of course, its unmistakable stamp.
It is only one sign among many of what all the specialized fashion magazines have proclaimed as the 'official' return of the 70s to the world of design (no matter what design).
The augurs this time have solid arguments to hold on to, since brands such as
Chlòe, Etro, Alessandra Rich, Missoni, Balenciaga
or Chanel have made it clear that today inspiration sniffs in this decade until recently vilified.
We have produced an album with the best proposals inspired by the 70s and seen on the latest catwalks.
There is talk of nostalgia when referring to this return, but in reality it is not such.
Few among those who adhere to the trends that set the catwalks today were alive in the 70s. Alive or with a sense of reason.
Or not.
"I was a teenager, but I remember that time perfectly and in fact I was very happy when I saw that the seventies clothes were back, I love them. I also keep some of my mother," explains the sociologist, essayist and ex
-
model
Patrícia Soley-Beltrán.
"Although on the other hand, at the return of the 70s in fashion I do not see any background, I do not think it is associated with a way of thinking".
FROM VIETNAM TO AFGHANISTAN
But there is 'another' 70s comeback that does seem to be.
On September 15, the
'Washington Post'
published a lengthy article titled 'The' 70s are back in 2021 - but not in the way you think 'where historian
Lauren Rebecca Sklaroff
elaborated on the different 'signs' that make people today compare our times with those 70. From drawing
parallels between Vietnam and Afghanistan
to correspondences between the
economic situations
of both eras.
A still from 'A Clockwork Orange' (1971).
Kubrick's film uncovered many of the concerns and traumas with which the decade began.
It is also true that there is a growing fascination in the entertainment world for the decade of racial conflicts,
Watergate
, disco music, the second wave of feminism and the oil crisis. The biopic of the legendary dressmaker
Halston
, the documentary about the
Bee Gees
('The Bee Gees: How Can You Mend A Broken Heart') or the reborn interest in the New York nightclub
Studio 54
in which
Ryan Murphy
focuses his new installment of 'American Crime Story 'are signs that the 70s are selling.
"In the era of the coronavirus," writes Sklaroff, "people yearn for community and question [as in the 70s] whether leaders truly defend us. Social media has some of the ingredients that defined disco, from the fascination for clothing to the desire for others to see us in a different way. Today's influencers, like the protagonists of Studio 54, have taken the ascription to a lifestyle to the next level. " While the materialistic approach of the 1970s is present in contemporary style, says Sklaroff, the liberating promise of the decade has also been revived, as seen in the rise of
activism
,
street
protests,
and increased
awareness
and
sensitivity.
to
social justice issues
and
LGBTQ rights.
Soley-Beltrán disagrees - "you cannot compare the influencers with Studio 54", he says - but he agrees on something central: "As in the 70s, I believe that today we are living a moment of reappropriation of everyday life. We have to live with less, in a more local, more austere way ... and with joy. A subversive joy that opposes the dissatisfaction to which wanting to be someone else leads you. That is where I see a clear parallel with the 70s. " .
MUSIC AND CLOTHING
Barbra Streisand and Robert Redford in Sydney Pollack's iconic drama 'As We Were' (1973), which posed a basic question in the 1970s: what is more important, love or ideals?
The 70s were years of awareness, but also of a great need to escape, which was manifested in the explosion of
disco music
and
clubs
, but also in clothing.
James Laver,
in his classic 'A Brief History of Suit and Fashion', says of the 70s that "it was a very uncertain, almost fearful time, where
escapism
was the predominant theme." And he adds: "When fashion did not have a
romantic streak, it
was
oriental
; a new style also appeared, an American hybrid:
flower-power hippy
." And he adds: "After the mess of the 60s, fashion began to look to the past for inspiration, just as it had done right after the
Second World War.
The romantic phase gave way to a great revival of the style and forms of the late 1920s and early 1930s. "
Although in Spain we walked at a different pace for reasons known to all, the 70s were also the years of women's liberation and the sexual revolution thanks to the
contraceptive pill.
That they turn out to be a scam is another matter.
The important thing in what concerns us is that this circumstance led to a new vision of the
body
and
eroticism
.
And that had a decisive influence on the dress.
"The first word that comes to mind when I think of the 70s is 'freedom', of course, also sexual", says theater director and actress
Magüi Mira.
"Freedom was installed in us. It was a very interesting pulse that we believed we were going to win. I don't think that this situation will happen now. In fact, even if we look for parallels, I think that each era is unrepeatable."
In spite of everything, Magüi Mira stars this year in an interesting project in which the 70s are implicit, turned into a mirror: "In 1979 I put my 'Molly Bloom' on its feet. And now it will be 100 years since the publication of the ' Ulysses' by
Joyce
. And I'm going to get back into her skin. When I did it at the age of 30 it was with all the eschatological freedom in the world, it was a monument to transgression. Now I see that the text is a classic of the 20th century. And I do it again, but at 77. The text is the same, but she, Molly, the woman, the women ... we get old and we are tired of always fighting against the same thing. "
OBSESSION FOR BUTTOCKS
Back to the impact that the explosion of sexuality had on fashion, Laver says that in the 70s the buttocks acquired enormous relevance. "Jeans and all kinds of pants became tighter and tighter, and knitwear clung to the body in an exaggerated way. The buttocks had become the new erogenous zone. But the way fashion made it even more important. that the slenderness and the good physical form of the body, revealed through the clothes, were considered erotic ".
And all of the above, seasoned with the utopia of a
return to nature,
to a simpler and healthier lifestyle, where both sex and clothing must flow freely, with few ties, in a healthy way, as an expression of our individuality.
Does it ring a bell?
Narcissists 70 are more like us than we would have imagined.
The fact is that, whether or not the 'ghost of past decades' returns, this year we will wear bell bottoms, baggy clothes, crochet garments and ponchos in an unmistakable hippy style.
We will use denim even to sleep, we will mix styles and prints and, when celebrating, our outfits will be inspired by glam rock and disco music with fringes, metallics, sequins and feathers ... Fashion law!
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