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Play to mislead the Sierra de Francia with that name. Even more so with those villages of
The Three Musketeers
, where around every corner one expects to see D'Artagnan, saber in hand, next to the moat of a castle. It has a historical explanation. This
region of Salamanca
was repopulated in the Middle Ages by French from Gascony, where the literary character of Dumas began his adventure.
Today, no less than six of its towns are historical sites. And all are embraced by an orchard of oak, chestnut, cherry, strawberry and olive trees. Because
nature runs wild
in the Sierra de Francia. Here not only is each geranium cared for. Each vine plant is pampered as if it were growing in a pot. This too is easy to explain. They make a wine with its own personality, which gives it a variety of
native grape, the rufete
, and the
landscape of terraces
that sculpt the mountains and reveal the work of many generations.
What the traveler discovers upon arrival is that beyond the beauty of its steep slopes and endless streams, the mountain architecture and its marvelous fortresses, there is a lot of passion in the mountains for what is his and his family.
Mogarraz
is a good example of this and of many things.
As an introduction to the area it is second to none.
Mogarraz.
Its houses preserve the long
wooden frameworks
so characteristic of the architecture that the Gauls brought.
But the best and most heartfelt tribute to his land was made by a neighbor,
Florencio Maíllo
, when he painted the portraits of all his 388 countrymen that today still hang on the facades of the houses.
It was back in 2012 and not only have they remained, but the artist, a professor at the University of Salamanca,
continues to paint and expand
this collection of sheet metal portraits to this day.
This rural Instagram is one of the main claims of the town, although not the only one.
THE SERRANO LEMON
The visit also forces you to sit in the Mirasierra restaurant, the benchmark of the place. For the podium of traditional star dishes, the
meneás potatoes and the serrano lemon
compete
, a cold salad that mixes lemons and oranges with meat, sausage and eggs. There are those who may raise an eyebrow, but "everything as a whole makes sense," says Agustín, at the head of the restaurant. "It is made in hundreds of ancient ways. Each family here puts a different touch on it." The way to wash the dish is of course with a
wine from La Zorra
, a winery located just behind that you can visit and then taste its wines in the shade of a medlar.
Returning to the road, the route takes us between vineyards and olive trees divided into small plots and always
in a sustainable
and respectful way with the environment.
With that mantra there is an oil with its own name in the area, Soleae, in
Herguijuela de la Sierra
, where among centenary and multicentennial olive trees Jesus Ángel Blanco explains to the visitor "his madness": the cultivation of the
Manzanilla Cacereña
and the
ocal olives, an autochthonous variety
that they began to recover in 2009. In the oil mill the curious have the opportunity to savor the difference.
Cambrian Winery.
Also in terraces of 300 and 400 years reclaimed from the mountain we find the ecological vineyards of
Cambrian
. If possible, sunset is the magical time to walk among these old vineyards. "As we are on terraces and there is a steep slope, the water runs downwards. This forces the roots of the vines to reach very deep to find moisture and this gives more minerality to the wine", explains Fernando, the winemaker who reminds us that everything we see from this hillside is part of the Las Batuecas-Sierra de Francia Natural Park, as well as a
Biosphere Reserve
. "Where the wine is made is here," he defends.
The talk continues in the winery, an impressive balcony overlooking this dazzling landscape, where we see the effect this land has on wine.
The rufete is reminiscent of
red fruits
, raspberries and wild strawberries.
Accompany local sausage.
The cool of the afternoon ... Life is pleasant.
the wine route
The Sierra de Francia Wine Route, winner of the award for the Best Responsible and Sustainable Wine Tourism Destination awarded by Acevin (Spanish Association of Wine Cities) encompasses seven wineries that offer tastings and visits to the vineyard.
They are both projects that have already reaped great successes as well as wineries that are starting now, such as that of Abuelo Flores in San Esteban de la Sierra.
It also proposes a series of experiences to explore the territory, combining, for example, an excursion with a picnic of Iberian products.
Who says no to a hornazo in the middle of the mountain?
Walk among the vineyards of Abuelo Flores.
It is true that the original
Paths of Art in Nature
that trump the mountains do not need any more seasoning.
Let's take the example of the Prodigies, dotted with wit and artistic pieces that the passerby is discovering between terraces.
Quite a hiking adventure.
THE MEANDER OF THE MELERO
Now, there is always a postcard that sweeps
likes
.
In these parts it is clearly the case of the so-called
Melero Meander
that forms the
Alagón River
.
It is not necessary to attend to controversies.
The meander, as can be seen in google maps, is on
Salamanca soil
.
If Cáceres takes
possession
of it, it is because the viewpoint from which to contemplate the amazing river contour is on the Las Hurdes side.
The Way of the Prodigies.
From this area, a good option to continue savoring the mountains is to head to
Montemayor del Río
, also a historical complex.
The place, well known for its chestnut trees, is brutal.
What's more, it is one of the places where the basketmaker's work is still alive with a dozen craftsmen who work
with chestnut wood
.
Their workshops can be visited.
What is non-negotiable is to approach the imposing
castle of San Vicente
with its moat, drawbridge and six towers.
The one of the Tribute can be conquered by a staircase with the help of a guide.
Although what makes this fortress different is the
restaurant
that extends its domains through the parade ground.
It is not only decorated with local pottery and basketry.
Santiago
, the chef, is successfully striving to enhance the gastronomic heritage of the region with the help of local producers.
You have to try the
Iberian
castanet donut
and the pumpkin flower.
That at least.
Montemayor del Río.
And if we have been left with more desire for medieval bastions, we do not have to think about it much. Go to
Miranda del Castañar
. You can spend the whole day admiring such a wall (12th century) with a perimeter of 631 meters. The journey back in time includes a square square dating back more than 500 years, considered the second oldest bullring in Spain.
Not all the elements of a county town are missing: the coats of arms on the facades, the old corn exchange, the legends ... In the House of the Scribe, like a gargoyle, a wooden devil continues to observe the visitor.
It is said that he was to blame for some woman getting pregnant out of wedlock.
That way no more questions were asked.
They will tell you about it in the
La Muralla winery-museum
, where they know all the good stories.
Above, they will give you to taste a glass of ruffete.
PRACTICAL GUIDE
HOW TO GET.
To Salamanca by train (renfe.com) and from there by car, one hour, to the mountains.
WHERE TO SLEEP.
Porta Coeli rural hotel.
With pool and beautiful views.
70 euros / night.
WHERE TO EAT.
Mirasierra
Restaurant
. Serrano lemon, meneás potatoes, kid ... An institution in Mogarraz.
Aldaba Tavern
. Familiar, very cozy and with products from its own garden in the heart of Miranda del Castañar.
Castillo
de Montemayor del Río
Restaurant
. 'Slow food' of km zero in a place, the castle itself, spectacular.
The Pipero
. A classic from the mountains, all the typical dishes and a natural pool in Santibáñez de la Sierra
La Botica
. Traditional dishes and some newer ones in an ideal patio for the summer in San Esteban de la Sierra.
MORE INFO.
On the website of the
Sierra de Francia Wine Route
: rutadelvinosierradefrancia.com and on the Spanish
Wine Routes website
: wineroutesofspain.com
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