Xinhua News Agency, Hong Kong, July 25 -
Problem: a Hong Kong "90" Chinese clothing girl's love
Xinhua News Agency reporter Liu Mingyang
In a busy industrial building day and night in Kwai Chung, Hong Kong, there is a studio that is incompatible with the surrounding industrial atmosphere.
Walking into the room seems to travel back to ancient times. A dazzling array of Han costumes and accessories are placed in the room. A girl dressed in ancient style is helping the customer to arrange her makeup, ready to try on these traditional Han costumes.
"Since I was young, I thought the costumes in costume dramas were so beautiful"
This girl with fluttering long dress is named Chen Wenwen, one of the founders of the folk society "Hanfu Hong Kong" and the owner of this Han culture studio.
Different from the modern fashions that can be seen everywhere in the streets of Hong Kong, this Hong Kong "post-90s" girl wears an ancient women's bun, a traditional flowered hairpin, a dark green gauze and a beige pleated long skirt. With a long lace tied around her waist and retro makeup on her face, she implicitly and confidently reveals the elegance and sophistication of Eastern women.
"Today I am wearing a Hanfu in the Song Dynasty. The clothes are called'Fuzi' and the skirt is called'Hundred Die Skirt'. The jacket has a straight collar and two sides. The sides are not stitched from the underarms. They are often worn over other clothes. Song and Ming dynasties. If I participate in the exhibition, I will wear a pair of embroidered shoes." Chen Wenwen, who has been obsessed with Hanfu for 10 years, told reporters that Hanfu has become an indispensable part of her life.
This petite girl first became acquainted with Hanfu because of her love of film and television dramas in ancient costumes.
"Since I was young, I thought that the actresses in costume dramas were beautifully dressed. After middle school, I deliberately went to the library or online to learn about the origins of these costumes. Only then did I know that they were called Hanfu." Chen Wenwen said.
In 2011, Chen Wenwen, who was still a middle school student, was deeply attracted by the charm of Hanfu, and she was eager to try on Hanfu.
"At that time, online shopping in Hong Kong was underdeveloped, and there were no shops specializing in selling Hanfu, so my first Hanfu was made by myself." Chen Wenwen, who liked manual work since childhood and knew some sewing skills, used her free time to go online and check. Some literary works, collect information and reference patterns of Hanfu, and then use their pocket money to go to the store to buy fabrics, and cut them out like cats and tigers.
Although the workmanship is not exquisite, she is still very excited and satisfied with having the first Hanfu in her life.
"I remember that the first time I wore it on the street was to participate in a parade. The organizer asked the participants to wear national costumes." Chen Wenwen recalled that she was very nervous when walking on the street, but she was not afraid of the strange look of others. I'm worried that I don't know enough about Hanfu, and others come to ask and explain it unclearly.
After graduating from middle school, Chen Wenwen, who doesn't have to wear school uniforms, can't live without Hanfu almost every day.
Nowadays, she prefers to mix Hanfu elements into fashion. “I hope that when people see me, they will feel that this dress is both beautiful and everyday, and they can also try it, so that they can integrate their interests into life.” Chen Wenwen said with a smile, and now she About 80 to 90% of clothes are Hanfu.
"Know what you are wearing"
The initial love is due to the beauty of Hanfu, while the long-term fascination is due to its cultural heritage.
For many years, Chen Wenwen has regularly read relevant museum websites and related books in the Mainland to learn about the latest Hanfu styles and costume research unearthed in archaeology, and constantly “charge” herself.
"If I want to promote Hanfu, I must first understand what I am wearing," she said.
With the deepening of her understanding, she discovered that Hanfu, which has a history of thousands of years, is not only gorgeous in appearance and exquisite craftsmanship, but also has its own characteristics in styles of different dynasties, and has a huge clothing system.
"In many people's impressions, ancient men and women usually wrapped themselves very tightly, but from some ancient paintings, it can be found that ancient people also wore lighter or short-sleeved clothes at home." Chen Wenwen said that Hanfu is better than everyone thinks. More colorful, no matter adults, children, tall, short, fat or thin, you can find suitable styles.
After years of study and experience, Chen Wenwen now has a deeper understanding and cognition of Hanfu.
What is Hanfu?
Chen Wenwen explained to reporters that Hanfu refers to the traditional clothing system formed in the main settlements of the Han nationality from the time when the Yellow Emperor "hanged down clothes and ruled the world" until the late Ming and early Qing dynasties. It carried the outstanding craftsmanship, elegant aesthetics and Traditional etiquette culture.
"Now Hanfu fans wear the clothes of the Song and Ming dynasties the most, because these two dynasties have a lot of related cultural relics, which is convenient for future generations to understand and imitate."
In addition, every part or workmanship detail of Hanfu has rich cultural connotations.
For example, she said that many Hanfu have a straight stitch in the middle of the back, which is called the "center seam."
In addition to being used as a formal dress, it also fits the human spine, which means that one must be upright.
For another example, the sleeves of the dress are larger, the stitching at the root of the sleeve is a large arc, and the lower body is matched with a square skirt, which represents the traditional culture of the sky and the circle.
"Hanyang" mashup is a city characteristic of Hong Kong
With the rise of online shopping, Chen Wenwen bought more and more Hanfu. In order to share with others, she opened this Han culture studio a few years ago.
At present, in addition to trying on and renting Hanfu and accessories, the studio also teaches hairstyle making and makeup.
"The studio now has more than 200 sets of various Hanfu, almost every dynasty has." Chen Wenwen said that her dream is to become a full-time Hanfu stylist.
In order to ensure the basic operation of the studio, Chen Wenwen will use her free time to do some part-time jobs.
She admitted that she had been persuaded by her parents to find a stable job, but she insisted on chasing dreams bravely while young.
Through offline activities and social media, Chen Wenwen got to know a group of young people who love Hanfu like her.
In order to organize "comrades" scattered in different regions, they registered and established a civil society "Hanfu Hong Kong" in 2013.
"Now our club has grown to two or three hundred people, basically young people in their 20s or college students, and some middle school students. As long as you like Hanfu, you can join for free." Chen Wenwen introduced that the club has organized many kinds of A variety of Hanfu cultural activities, including school lectures, workshops, tea art and Hanfu parade display, etc., hope that more people will know Hanfu.
Talking about the changes brought to young people by Hanfu, Chen Wenwen said that after some young people fell in love with Hanfu, their personalities became more peaceful, and they were more willing to calm down to learn about Chinese history and Chinese culture, and became more mature and sensible in daily life. More willing to listen to communication.
Hong Kong is an international metropolis, where diverse cultures converge and collide, as is the fashion culture.
"But we can't just follow some Western trends, but also look for costumes with our national cultural characteristics. We hope that the society will pay attention to the inheritance of Hanfu culture, and the mix and match of'Hanyang' also reflects the urban characteristics of Hong Kong's integration of Chinese and Western cultures." Chen Wenwen said.