With its atmosphere of perpetual holidays, Barcelona is one of the favorite destinations of the French. The ties that unite the Catalan metropolis to our country are not, however, limited to sunny hedonism. Long before it became a tourist hub, Barcelona was a melting pot of creativity. And his artistic development was largely influenced by the Paris of the Belle Epoque. It is indeed in the French capital, in contact with its writers and poets, that the painters Pablo Picasso and Joan Miró took the revolutionary turn of surrealism. It was also in Paris, during the Universal Exhibition of 1878, that Eusebi Güell was challenged by the technical and aesthetic proposals of his fellow citizen Antoni Gaudí. Back in Barcelona, the wealthy industrialist and the young architect met,became friends and started a series of collaborations that would transform the face of the city.
Miró was already dating Gaudí before he left for Paris. Picasso, on the other hand, did not hold him in great esteem. The painter was then far from imagining that the achievements of the architect would become the icons of Barcelona! Based on the observation of nature and imprinted with Christian spirituality, Gaudí's visionary work is part of a cultural movement called modernism on this side of the Pyrenees, and Art Nouveau on the French side. In terms of architecture, this trend is characterized by an overall design of buildings, from their structure and functional aspects to their decoration.
In Barcelona, there are countless buildings imagined in this detail by Gaudí and his peers.
But from obscure Barri Xino to the hills of Sant Gervasi, passing through the wide bourgeois streets of Eixample, the walk to discover the modernist genius can focus on nine emblematic sites, eight of which are listed as World Heritage sites. Unesco.
A record for a city!
The Palau Güell, the first “Gaudian” marvel
In 1886, Güell already had full confidence in Gaudí when he offered him an unlimited budget to build his palace in the Barri Xino, near the Rambla.
The austere facade which was favored to integrate into this popular district contrasts with the neo-Gothic and Arabist splendor of the reception rooms.
Inside, the architect had to compose with specifications, unlike the roof, where he could express his creativity.
Eighteen extravagantly shaped fireplaces here introduce the
trencadis
technique
, which prefigures recycling by combining offcuts in the form of mosaics.
La Pedrera, a structural madness
Main axis of the Eixample district, the very opulent Passeig de Gràcia became, at the beginning of the 20th century, a place of architectural innovations, and therefore, of modernist bidding.
Two blocks from the prestigious Hotel Majestic, where Miró used to live, La Pedrera amazes with the mineral sinuosities of its free-standing facade, which condenses all of Gaudí's audacity.
Inspired by nature, "which creates nothing superfluous", this organic architecture is intended to serve the function.
Completed in 1912, La Pedrera, also known as Casa Milà, was Gaudí's last civil construction, before he devoted himself entirely to the Sagrada Familia.
La Casa Batlló, Gaudí at the height of his art
It is also on Passeig de Gràcia that the famous
boulder
nicknamed
Manzana de la Discórdia is located
.
This untranslatable play on words evokes the variety of sensibilities within Catalan modernism itself.
You can see it in front of the very different Casa Lleó Morera designed by Lluís Domènech i Montaner, Casa Amatller designed by Josep Puig i Cadafalch and Casa Batlló designed by Gaudí.
The facade of the latter has caused much ink to flow.
No straight line breaks the infinite undulation of lines.
Inspired by the aquatic world, this house, which captivated the surrealist Salvador Dalí, is considered to be Gaudí's most accomplished.
A modernist setting dedicated to music
Unlike Gaudí, the architect Lluís Domènech i Montaner mainly worked on buildings with a public vocation.
Built between 1905 and 1908, its Catalan Music Palace is a sort of synthesis of the architectural deliriums of modernism.
Hidden in the network of medieval streets of La Ribera, this auditorium sublimates an architecture of bricks and steel thanks to the applied arts, such as sculpture, stained glass and mosaic.
To bring natural light to this 2,000-seat room, the building was capped with a large polychrome glass roof, from which hangs an inverted dome like a drop on the verge of falling.
La Torre Bellesguard, far from the beaten track
Do not look for it in tourist guides, but rather on a detailed map.
The Torre Bellesguard is a well-hidden secret, on the heights of Sarrià-Sant Gervasi.
Commissioned by the Figueras family from Gaudí, it remained unfinished, like many of its projects.
Here, the creator wanted to pay homage to the medieval past of the place, where the residence of Martin I was located, the last king of Aragon from the House of Barcelona.
Facing one of the most beautiful views of the city, this unusual mansion is a haven of tranquility.
It only receives around thirty visitors a day, when the Sagrada Familia receives tens of thousands.
Casa Vincens, at the beginnings of the work
Back in the city center, fans of modernism can recently rush to the Gràcia district to admire one of Gaudí's very first works.
Built between 1883 and 1888, the Casa Vincens reveals an architecture where straight lines still dominate the curves, and where naturalism combines with Orientalism in a riot of colored ceramics.
The young Gaudí allowed himself some structural innovations, such as projecting corner turrets, which provoked the skepticism of the master builder.
After their completion, the latter remained on the site, convinced that they would collapse ...
Park Güell, star of social networks
The spelling of Park Güell is explained by its Anglo-Saxon inspiration.
Güell, Gaudí's main patron, had discovered on the other side of the Channel the urban concept of a garden city, bringing together living spaces around pavilions.
He entrusted his friend with the realization of such a project on the heights of Barcelona.
But for lack of resources, the site was cut short.
The site now offers a picturesque view of the city.
Bordered by phantasmagorical fountains, a double staircase leads to a large esplanade ending in a winding bench of
trencadis
, where “instagramers” compete for the best places with
selfies
.
The largest modernist complex in Europe
In operation until 2009, the Hospital de Sant Pau was conceived as a true city within the city, with its medical pavilions, underground corridors and esplanades open to the public.
This brick and earthenware fantasy, designed in 1901 by Lluís Domènech i Montaner, was largely financed by the Catalan banker Pau Gil i Serra, who made his fortune in Paris.
It was between these walls that Gaudí died in 1926, after being run over by a tram.
Then it was in the crypt of the Sagrada Familia that he was buried.
From Sant Pau, the pleasant Avenue Gaudí offers a breathtaking view of the Temple and allows you to reach this final stage of the route on foot.
Sagrada Familia, an authentic stone Bible
It is to Barcelona what the Eiffel Tower is to Paris.
A standard!
Still unfinished, the Sagrada Familia was started in 1882. Guided by a deep religious sentiment throughout his career, Gaudí devoted the last fourteen years of his life to this exalted masterpiece, but adapted to the needs of the cult .
How not to remain captivated by the profusion of details adorning the facade of the Nativity?
Listed by Unesco, this facade as well as the crypt were completed by Gaudí himself.
When asked why he decorated the top with towers reaching 125 meters, the brilliant architect replied that the angels would appreciate it.
We will not be surprised that he is one day beatified.
Trip
Formentera invites its visitors to reconnect with slowness
Trip
Martinique: a watered journey to the heart of biodiversity
Go
Be careful, in the context of a pandemic, traffic conditions between countries can change rapidly.
Currently, Spain asks all its visitors to present a QR code, obtained after filling in a health control form.
Depending on their region of origin, French travelers must also present a COVID Europe certificate (available on the TousAntiCovid application).
Housing
Two blocks from La Pedrera on one side, and Casa Battló on the other, the Majestic Hotel & Spa Barcelona is ideally placed for walking to Gaudí's two most famous houses. Like these modernist buildings, the luxury establishment has been part of the identity of the very chic Passeig de Gràcia for over a century. The people of Barcelona have an emotional bond with him. Its clientele, mostly French, find a timeless setting, decorated with works of art, to spend a romantic night, enjoy the view from its Dolce Vitae terrace bar or savor a gourmet menu in its SOLC restaurant. The starred chef Nandu Jubany composes here a “locavore” menu based on seasonal products, grown nearby and specifically for the establishment. Olive oil,wines and an olfactory atmosphere developed for the Majestic add to its exclusivity.
Equally conveniently located, a few hundred meters from Plaça de Catalunya, the Midmost boutique hotel is a more affordable option, but also very comfortable.
Here too, a rooftop terrace with bar and swimming pool allows you to relax after a day of sightseeing.
Restore
La
cuina catalana
is a tasty and mixed cuisine, readily combining the tastes of the land with those of the sea. In Barcelona, the go-to address for finding the best regional products is Villa Viniteca. For three generations, this delicatessen has not only enchanted its passing customers, but also supplies the city's major establishments. In particular, it references 350 cheeses and has its own maturing cellar. But the most impressive is undoubtedly its collection of wines bringing together the best bottles from Spain and Europe. Certain French grands crus are therefore easier to find at Villa Viniteca than in France!
To sit down near Passeig de Gràcia, head to Passage Concepció and its array of gourmet addresses, such as the Petit Comitè restaurant, where chef Carles Gaig only concocts typically Catalan recipes.
To the right of the Eixample, towards the Sagrada Familia, the Chicha Limona offers inventive and generous cuisine, always nicely presented.
Don't miss its sake mussels!
Unesco
Spain
Catalonia
Barcelona
Trip
Architecture