Chinanews client, Beijing, June 12 (Reporter Song Yusheng) After the announcement of the fifth batch of national intangible heritage lists, Liuzhou snail noodles have undoubtedly become the "top stream" among them.
Data map: People use mobile phones to take pictures of snail noodles.
Photo by Zhu Liurong
Many netizens discuss on social media how much they want snail fans.
Weibo screenshot
However, few people probably understand that Liuzhou snail noodles actually originated from street night markets in the 1970s and 1980s.
So, the snail noodles with a history of only a few decades are connected with the national intangible cultural heritage?
This starts with the eating habits of Liuzhou people.
Data map: People use mobile phones to take pictures of snail noodles.
Photo by Zhu Liurong
In the recipes of Liuzhou people, snails and rice noodles are the favorites of the locals.
The combination of rice noodles and snail noodles to make snail noodles is a big creation of Liuzhou folk.
In the 1970s and 1980s, the night market in Liuzhou gradually prospered. When eating rice noodles, many diners intentionally or unintentionally asked to add spicy snail soup to their rice noodles.
Over time, the stall owners began to try to cook rice noodles with snail soup.
Liuzhou snail noodles was born.
But to say that Liuzhou snail noodles are completely new, it seems inaccurate.
Because no matter which element it is, it has the local characteristics of Liuzhou.
Take the snails in the snail powder as an example. The local media in Liuzhou once published an article that Liuzhou people had a special hobby of eating snails a long time ago. In addition, there were many ponds and pits in the suburbs of Liuzhou. The snails were from Liuzhou at that time. The most accessible food.
Many residents fished snails for cooking or sold them to subsidize their families.
Compared with Liuzhou snails, the processing technique of sour bamboo shoots in snail powder is more worth mentioning.
In the documentary "China on the Bite of the Tongue", pickling sour bamboo shoots requires an "ancestral trick".
Screenshot of "China on the Bite of the Tongue".
Feng Enyuan, the chairman of the Supervisory Committee of the China Cuisine Association and the leader of the evaluation team of the traditional dietary skills of the intangible cultural heritage project, told the media that Shaxian snacks, snail-lion noodles, hot and spicy soup, and familiar Sichuan dishes can be widely used in this society for the people. They are accepted by the masses because they have a rich historical culture and satisfy the people's life needs through the progress of the times.
In fact, in 2008, Liuzhou's hand-made snail noodles was approved by the People's Government of Guangxi Zhuang Autonomous Region, and it was included in the second batch of autonomous region-level intangible cultural heritage lists.
In Liuzhou snail noodles, there are both traditional inheritance and contemporary value.
More than a decade ago, Liuzhou City encouraged businesses to open stores in Beijing, Shanghai, Guangzhou and other big cities. However, many ingredients can only be transported by air, which greatly increases the operating cost of noodle shops. The current-cooked dine-in model is also difficult to satisfy more diners. The demand for authentic Liuzhou snail noodles.
Data map: simulation model of snail noodles.
Photo by Zhu Liurong
How to make the delicacy with local characteristics go further?
As a city with long-term advantages in automobile, steel and machinery manufacturing, "industrial thinking" has provided Liuzhou with new ideas.
In 2014, the first bagged snail powder company was born.
Since then, Liuzhou has successively issued a series of production standards and development plans for snail noodles.
Gradually, snail noodles not only went out of Liuzhou, but also developed from a roadside stand to an industry worth nearly 10 billion yuan, and even went abroad.
Data map: The staff is packing snail noodles.
Photo by Lin Xin
During the epidemic last year, the sales of instant food products including Liuzhou snail noodles soared. Many netizens urged delivery on social media, and related topics were once on hot search.
Data map: On February 10, 2020, the snail powder enterprise in Liuzhou City, Guangxi resumed work. The enterprise took the temperature of workers at the gate, workshop and canteen three times a day to prevent cross-infection of workers with sick work.
Photo by China News Agency reporter Wang Yizhao
A press conference held in Liuzhou City, Guangxi on June 10 stated that from January to April this year, the export value of pre-packaged Liuzhou snail noodles was about 7 million yuan, an increase of 4.1 times over the same period in 2020.
Before this year's intangible cultural heritage day, Liuzhou snail noodle making skills were included in the fifth batch of national intangible cultural heritage lists.
Wang Chenyang, Director of the Intangible Cultural Heritage Department of the Ministry of Culture and Tourism, said at the press conference that this review will set up a separate review team based on the outstanding characteristics of food-related intangible cultural heritage items, mainly to give play to the guidance of the national-level intangible cultural heritage item list. The role is to guide all walks of life to pay more attention to the cultural significance, social function and contemporary value of food and beverage intangible cultural heritage items based on the production of a certain food and a certain dish.
Data map: A vocational school in Liuzhou City launched a snail flour cake.
Photo by Lin Xin
The reporter noticed that the Intangible Cultural Heritage Protection Center of Guangxi Zhuang Autonomous Region has published the steps for making snail noodles on its website:
1. Pork bones, aniseed, sand ginger, dried dates, wolfberry, shiitake mushrooms and water to boil the soup for later use;
2. The yuba is fried and cut into pieces for later use;
3. Pour the oil of fried yuba while hot and pour it into a bowl of chili powder to make chili oil for later use;
4. Fry the sour bamboo shoots in a dry pot (no oil), add chili oil, salt and stir fry, add bone broth, yuba, snail soup and boil;
5. Boil the rice noodles in water and boil. Add appropriate amount of oil and water. Sprinkle the bone broth and sprinkle with chopped capers, coriander and shallots. The spicy and delicious snail noodles are complete.
Are you ready to participate in this intangible cultural heritage project?
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Reference materials: "Behind the "Boom" of snail noodles", "A series of reports on the origin of snail noodles in Liuzhou", "This life and past lives of snail noodles", "Snail noodles, Shaxian snacks and other intangible cultural heritage "street food" why are so popular?
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