The region of Istria

Terra Magica

- this is still the name of Istria, the largest peninsula on the Adriatic.

In ancient times it was the Romans who discovered and conquered this magical piece of earth for themselves.

Today many holidaymakers enjoy Istria's charms - on 3500 square kilometers it combines the best of the Mediterranean and the cultures that have shaped the region, including the Histrians, after whom Istria is named, Romans, Alpine Romans, Byzantines, Slavs and Venetians up to the Habsburgs.

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Since the collapse of Yugoslavia, most of the peninsula has belonged to Croatia, a bit in the north to Slovenia and a tiny corner around the village of Muggia to Italy. Until the Second World War, all of Istria belonged to Italy. The Italian heritage can be felt almost everywhere, in the architecture for example or in the shape of the many bilingual place name signs - in addition to the official Croatian and Slovenian geographical names, there are also Italian names almost everywhere.

After 1945 the Italians were expelled en masse, but there is still a small Italian minority.

Picturesque cities are reminiscent of 400 years of Venetian rule on the Istrian coast, such as Piran / Pirano (praised as the “most beautiful city in Slovenia”) or Rovinj / Rovigno (“Croatia's Little Venice”).

Interestingly, many of the white limestone blocks used to build Venice's palaces came from Istria, as did stonemasons and builders.

Source: WORLD infographic

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The cathedrals are also spectacular, such as the Euphrasian Basilica in Poreč / Parenzo (Unesco World Heritage) and the mighty fortresses.

The castle of Pazin / Pisino inspired the visionary writer Jules Verne, and the Austro-Hungarian Fort Punta Christo in Pula / Pola is now a huge festival location.

With its many pines and macchia, Istria is a green oasis in the northern Adriatic, and a good third is covered by forests.

After the fall of the Iron Curtain, Istria has developed into a gourmet destination - here, too, it was possible to build on the many connections to Italian culture.

One of the largest Roman amphitheaters in the world

Almost like in Rome: In fact, the Pula arena (“Pulska Arena” in Croatian) was built relatively at the same time as the Colosseum.

The counterpart in Istria originated from 27 BC.

Under Emperor Augustus and was expanded under Vespasian.

Public spectacles, gladiatorial and wild animal fights also took place in Pula's amphitheater.

At 133 by 105 meters, it is not quite as huge as the Colosseum, the mightiest Roman amphitheater, but it is still one of the largest in the world.

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And it has a special advantage: While tourists in the Colosseum usually crowd for selfies, performances are still taking place regularly in Pula, because the Istrian arena is much better preserved than the one in Rome and has space for 5000 visitors.

There are ballet dances, film festivals, concerts by world-famous stars - and at the Spectacula Antiqua in summer, a journey back in time to antiquity, there are also simulated gladiator fights.

Dictator Tito liked to invite stars to his island

I'm a diva, gets me out of here: Sophia Loren (front) looks slightly tense, as if she doesn't trust Tito's driving skills.

Yugoslavia's dictator (at the wheel) liked to invite stars to the Istrian archipelago Brijuni (Italian: Brioni), where he had a summer residence on the largest island, Veli Brijun, from 1947 onwards.

Spaghetti was cooked, strudel was baked, and Liz Taylor was also a guest.

Yugoslavia's dictator Tito is having a good time, while Sophia Loren looks skeptical next to him

Source: Bettmann / Getty Images

Robert Koch had made the islands malaria-free and usable as a vacation spot for an Austrian industrialist with a kind of lockdown around 1900.

Before Tito's time they were Italy's polo paradise, after his death in 1980 they became a national park.

Today you can see over 680 species of plants, 250 species of birds and mouflons, there is a safari park (developed from Tito's private zoo), dinosaur tracks and a museum.

Fantastic bays in the nature reserve

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Crystal clear water, untouched landscape: some of the most beautiful spots on the peninsula are hidden in the nature reserve Cape Kamenjak on the southern tip of Istria.

More than 30 different bays are lined up close to the picturesque resort of Premantura on the rugged coast.

Some have restaurants and sports facilities, others can only be reached on foot and are accordingly lonely.

The Kolombarica bay seduces some visitors with its up to 13 meter high cliffs to daredevil jumps into the sea.

Windsurfers can find a rental in Pinizule Bay.

Biking and hiking trails lead through the reserve, and the underwater world is ideal for snorkeling and diving.

In the nature reserve Cape Kamenjak on the southern tip of Istria, pretty bays are lined up next to each other

Source: picture alliance / DUMONT picture archive

Istrian beef meat is a delicacy

Imposing horns, beautiful coat markings: the Istrian cattle or Boškarin is one of the oldest breeds in Europe.

It is popular because of its beauty - and as a delicacy.

The year-round grazing, in which the robust animals dig up spicy herbs with their horns, makes their meat particularly tasty, also as a carpaccio, which is best enjoyed in a tavern - that's the name of the traditional country inns in Croatia, where people often cook over an open fire .

At the Jakobsfest in Rovinj in July there is a beauty contest for oxen;

the competition at the plow and the freestyle of the most obedient Boškarin are reminiscent of times when they were important draft animals.

In the Slovenian part of Istria they stand for a hiking route: the Boškarin path leads through the rural hinterland to old churches, mysterious pre-Christian places of worship and natural monuments.

The year-round grazing, in which the Istrian cattle dig up aromatic herbs with their horns, makes their meat particularly tasty

Source: pa / PIXSELL / Srecko Niketic

The best extra virgin olive oil in the world

The gourmet peninsula has good wines - but the star is the olive oil.

The special guide “Flos Olei” declared Istria the world's best region for extra virgin olive oil for the sixth time in a row in 2021.

The climate in the northernmost cultivation area in the Mediterranean is ideal for the development of aromas, from gentle to spicy to slightly bitter in the finish.

Many producers offer tastings.

The white truffle made it into the “Guinness” Book of Records

The white truffle that Giancarlo Zigante and his search dog Diana found in the woods around Motovun in 1999 weighed 1.31 kilograms.

As the world's largest specimen, the Croatian tuber made it into the “Guinness” Book of Records and made Zigante's restaurant and delicatessen in Livade a destination for gourmets.

The Istrian hinterland is famous for white and black truffles.

Vacationers can look for truffles with professionals and see a replica of the record mushroom in Zigante's restaurant.

The original was eaten locally, although white truffles can fetch 9,000 euros per kilo.

Truffle lovers will get their money's worth in Giancarlo Zigante's restaurant in Livade

Source: pa / DUMONT Bildar / Hans Madej

Quirky, record-breaking, typical: you can find more parts of our regional geography series here.