After six o'clock in the morning, the door of Cheng Yunfu's house was already very lively.
More than a dozen people paced around the courtyard gates and walls. On the not-so-gradual slopes, mobile phones were raised up and down, and the camera was an empty bungalow courtyard with doors and windows closed.
The voice of the live broadcast one after another, "We came to Ramen brother's house, and he will come out soon."
Cheng Yunfu has already woke up.
At this usual time, he should drive a small truck, and his wife Hu Lirong went to the Weizhuang market more than ten kilometers away, set up the case, set up the stove, and steamed a pot full of bittern that had been boiled up all night. The busyness began.
But at this moment, he sits quietly in the corner of the main room with his hands clasped on his legs, and his hair on his forehead is messy and cocked. He stares at the display on the cabinet, which shows the surveillance video in front of the house, sparse silhouettes Slowly become crowded.
This day is March 3, the 20th of the first month of the lunar calendar, and he has not been out of the stall for four days.
More than a week ago, Cheng Yunfu was filmed in a short video when he was setting up a market stall. He was dark and thin, with a shy smile and a big white tooth. "A bowl of ramen for three yuan, sold for 15 years without increasing the price." , The video appeared on hot searches, and this Shandong "ramen brother" quickly became popular on the Internet.
In Yangshuxing Village, Feixian County, Linyi City, Shandong Province, there have never been so many people coming from all over the country to "drink a bowl of noodles made by Brother Ramen."
Groups of people holding their cell phones flooded into the village and surrounded Cheng Yunfu's home. There were live broadcasts almost 24 hours a day.
The 39-year-old Cheng Yunfu's life was completely changed.
Onlookers
Just after 8 o'clock in the morning, the crowd of onlookers stretched out from the gate of Cheng Yunfu's family courtyard, and the number of people was nearly 100.
Cheng Yunfu's house was halfway up the mountain, and people with mobile phones kept coming up. The front row was already occupied. Those who came late walked up the slope until they found a satisfactory seat.
Someone simply climbed onto the roof of the bungalow next to Cheng Yunfu's house and supported the tripods, and they could take pictures of the entire courtyard of Cheng Yunfu's house from above.
Ramen brother did not appear in the screen, and the anchors yelled vigorously, "Brother Ramen come out immediately, pay attention to the anchor, don't miss it."
Some people took pictures of the carport outside the courtyard, stacking empty beer bottles and charcoal, and picked them up to introduce them one by one. Some stepped directly on the courtyard wall and raised their mobile phones to aim at the hall door.
The door was pushed open, and Hu Lirong took a handful of leeks to the kitchen. Someone immediately announced to the outside, "La Noodles is coming out, and she is making breakfast!" The anchor behind him repeated it over and over again, "La Noodles is already making breakfast."
Xiao Han in a red suit squeezed to the entrance of the courtyard and patted the microphone in his hand, "Hey, Ramen brother likes Andy Lau, then I will sing a song of Forgetfulness and give it to Ramen brother." The camera was pointed at him, and the music sounded. , The noisy voice did not stop, "Brother Ramen may be having breakfast, let's listen to the song first."
Hearing the singing, Cheng Yunfu, who was sitting in the room, hummed unconsciously, "I liked Andy Lau too much when I was young, he loved listening to his songs, watching his movies, I was tired of ramen noodles, humming a few words, I forgot to be tired. He grabbed his hair and combed it back to the left. He raised his head and smiled cheerfully. The lines in the corners of his eyes became deeper. "My hairstyle is now following him, leaving a twenty-eight point."
Cheng Yunfu said that he was used to the music and cheers outside the door. He picked up a slice of pancake, folded it a few times, sandwiched two chopsticks, eggs and cold bean sprouts, stood up and walked to the screen, "There will be more people by noon. , The crowds are full."
Seeing that Brother Ramen still didn't show up, the onlookers became more restless and shouted from time to time, "Brother Ramen, come out soon." Someone pulled a cart with two signs on it, saying "Brother Ramen, I'm coming."
He shouted at the gate, "Brother Ramen, we have walked more than a hundred kilometers to see you." A man holding a billboard for marriage screamed with a loudspeaker, "Brother Ramen, your brother is here for marriage, don’t you Come out to see me, I live here and will not leave."
At around 10:40 in the morning, the village cadres and some relatives came, the door opened a crack, and there was a commotion in the crowd. The two people in the village who were helping to maintain order took the lead and tried hard to push the people who were trying to squeeze in. The other two blocked the people trying to rush into the door on both sides and shouted, "Be quiet, don't squeeze." The voice was drowned in the screams and shouts of the crowd.
Cheng Yunfu finally came out. In an instant, hundreds of mobile phones surrounded him. The mobile phones in the back row were raised through the long bracket and passed through the crowd. The people in the front row shook their hands to shake hands with Ramen. Holding the mobile phone and reaching forward, it almost touched his face, Cheng Yunfu took two steps back.
He stood in the crowd, took the microphone handed by Xiao Han, and the scene became quiet.
He said, "Thank you for supporting me and welcome everyone to Shandong. I am a farmer who sells ramen noodles. I am embarrassed to take care of me." His Mandarin is mixed with Shan Dongfang dialect. Every time he says a sentence, the onlookers applaud. , Someone climbed up a peach tree on the slope in front of the door and shouted, "Brother Ramen, I love you."
"Pay attention to safety. Everyone must listen to the arrangements of the village cadres and pay attention to safety." Cheng Yunfu said, shouting one after another, but the crowd kept squeezing in. Some people climbed up the top of the courtyard door along the fence and squatted up to shoot down.
Seeing the scene, he couldn't control it, he clasped his fists and arched his hands at everyone, then retreated behind the door.
Popular
At 11:50 noon, Cheng Yunfu wanted to go out. He received a call from his relatives. They came to see him. When they arrived in the village, they couldn't get in, so they made an appointment at his brother's house.
Five people huddled him out, and the crowd followed him.
There are many stones on the dirt road, and people get caught and staggered from time to time.
They walked more than ten meters away, and someone ran around the neighbor's house, blocking his way.
More and more people came around, and a much larger number of mobile phones were facing him. The anchors babbled and shouted at the screen repeatedly, "Brother Ramen is out, order a little red heart." Cheng Yun paid his ears to the noise. Buzzing.
He had to stop. After a while, seeing that he couldn't get out of the posture, he decided to go back. The person in front of him walked backwards in order to take a picture of him, and some people turned the camera around and shot him from the side.
Cheng Yunfu couldn't remember exactly when he started, and suddenly more people took pictures of him.
In the past two years, people who came to the stall to eat ramen often took a short video for him. He was very cooperative, "They are filming and playing, and these people are paying attention to me, and I must be happy too."
On February 22, Peng Jiajia, a 21-year-old food anchor, met Cheng Yunfu at the Guansi Market in Feixian County. “He has a very simple smile, and it’s rare to insist on not increasing prices for 15 years.”
Cheng Yunfu said that he can persist for 15 years because he has experienced the poorest life. "For a bowl of ramen for 3 yuan, people who come to the market can afford it and are willing to drink it."
Peng Jiajia is a native of Anhui. He has made a lot of food videos of his hometown before and also sells agricultural and sideline products of his hometown on the Internet. The video playback volume is not high, mostly tens of thousands of times.
"The video of Brother Ramen broke." Peng Jiajia remembered that two hours after the first short video was sent out, the video playback volume increased from a few thousand to tens of thousands, and then hundreds of thousands, millions, very much. It has quickly become the most trafficked video in her account.
She was surprised and quickly cut and uploaded Cheng Yunfu's other materials, including a video of him humming at the booth. Three videos were posted in succession. In a few days, the total number of views reached 300 million and the number of likes exceeded 3 million.
Her account currently has more than 700,000 followers. "I thought that the traffic should be okay, but I never thought it was so high."
Cheng Yunfu went viral all of a sudden.
Hu Lirong remembered that from the Liangqiu Market on the twelfth day of the first lunar month, people holding mobile phones surrounded the stalls. They reported that there were people who had taken a 32-hour train from Xinjiang, and some had drove 1,600 kilometers. Drink a bowl of ramen.
Thinking of the guests coming from afar, the couple greeted them politely, and the netizens called them, "Brother Ramen, Sister Ramen".
Cheng Yunfu feels like it is not much different from usual, "just like everyone else."
The long line at the end lined up in an orderly manner.
The old customers who came to the market stepped forward to take a look. They were all taking pictures of Ramen, jokingly, “I’m not here to join in the fun today, this team leader, you’re hot, you will be blessed in the future.” Some people don’t understand. "What's good for selling ramen?"
Cheng Yunfu never thought that he would be famous, because there are too many people making ramen in the country.
Fifteen years ago, Cheng Yunfu just got married, and learned the craftsmanship from his relatives who opened a noodle shop for half a year. A noodle case, a stove, a pot, and a couple’s ramen stall were set up and sold at the market for 3 yuan a bowl.
At first the business was not very good, "New stall, others do not recognize you, I don't know if you are good or not."
"The worse the business is, the more I have to go to the market every day." His wife has the skill of fried dumplings, and the person who eats fried dumplings also tried a bowl of ramen. He went to learn the craft of making marinade, shredded pork with beans. Skins, eggs and ham sausages are sold out almost every day.
Slowly the business got better and better, and the couple discussed and changed to four episodes in five days.
"A large bowl of noodles is very affordable. The children at home are clamoring to go to Jishang to eat noodles during holidays." An elderly vegetable seller in Liang Qiu Ji said. Sometimes I see very old people who don’t have enough money. , He waved his hand directly and said no, "He is very simple."
Six or seven years ago, the price of meat went up. Cheng Yunfu considered that a bowl of noodles would go up by a dollar, and told the customer, “The old man and the old mother are very embarrassed, saying that you will not be willing to drink anymore when the price goes up. Don’t put the meat. , You can give me more noodles and you can eat enough." He discussed with his wife, "Don't go up, it is not easy for rural people to make money. As a personal favor, I will work harder and sell a few more bowls."
He bought a second-hand bus, disassembled the chairs, and placed two long rows of tables. When going to the market in winter, guests can sit and eat in the bus, which is much warmer.
Cheng Yunfu said that he is very light on money, as long as the money is enough to spend, these favors are real.
There were a lot of messages from customers on his mobile phone, asking him, "Will you go to the fair tomorrow?" On days when the temperature suddenly dropped, someone reminded him to wear thicker clothes when going to the fair.
People of his age often call his brother. He rubbed his dark and rough face and laughed, "I am very old. Everyone says I am a post-70s."
On the days when he went out of the stall, especially during the slack and the New Year holidays, he was so busy that he could only rest for a while after closing the stall, and often only had one meal a day.
After rubbing the dough for a day, my arm was sore.
In the village, the living conditions of Cheng Yunfu's family were not good. He and his wife lived in his brother's old house. His son is 17 years old and has been living with his grandparents.
The two discussed working hard for a few more years to build their own house.
Hu Lirong said that it is the husband who is the most tired of the stall.
"As long as two people work together, I don't feel too bitter."
Crazy
More and more people came to find Cheng Yunfu with their mobile phones, and people quickly inquired about his home.
On February 27, when the ingredients were not enough, he went to the county to buy goods. As soon as he returned to the village, the car was surrounded by a crowd. It had not yet stopped. A woman in a red cotton-padded jacket lay straight in front of the wheel.
The eldest brother Cheng Yunming was driving. He slammed on the brakes. Cheng Yunfu was so frightened that he got out of the car to see. When the woman saw him get off, she stood up suddenly, grabbed his arm, jumped and yelled as she walked, "Brother Ramen its mine."
Someone rushed up again, pulling him to the other side, his arms were numb, someone was pushing him, and the onlookers were holding their mobile phones, laughing and shooting. In the video, he bent his back and was drawn here blankly. , And then be pushed there.
He pursed his mouth, "Too scared, I have never experienced anything like this."
Cheng Yunming pushed aside the crowd and walked home with his brother.
The crowd followed them into the house, and the hall and courtyard were full of people.
Cheng Yunfu was standing in the hall, and people were constantly looking for him to take photos. The phone was facing him, facing his mother and daughter-in-law, facing the fish tank, the wedding photos on the wall, the awards, and even the chickens and toilets in the yard. The sky darkened. People sit awkwardly, and people with mobile phones come in and out.
A villager next door came over and looked at the situation. "It's terrible, I don't understand what these people are doing."
By two o'clock in the middle of the night, Cheng Yunfu was almost unable to stand, his whole body collapsed, his eyelids drooped, and the crowd slowly dispersed.
Someone plugged in the patch panel from the inside and set up a tent to sleep at the entrance of the courtyard.
Someone knocked on the door vigorously to talk about something with Ramen Brother. After hearing no response, he threw the empty wine bottle into the courtyard with a sharp "bang" in the night.
Hu Lirong smiled bitterly, "It's crazy, he didn't dared to close his eyes overnight."
The village cadres rushed over and communicated with several "crazy" anchors. The village cadres and relatives stayed at his home, and similar things never happened again.
After that day, most of the time, the gate of Cheng Yunfu's house was closed tightly.
Cheng Yunfu said that he was under too much pressure, "I'm just a ramen seller, not a star. It's useless for them to watch me. It's support for me to drink a bowl of ramen."
He couldn't take care of the goldfish at home and the chrysanthemums planted in the yard. He couldn't sleep. He would look through the photos on the phone.
He likes photography and can use his mobile phone to take pictures of scenes he likes. He takes pictures of the lotus in the lotus root pond planted by the villagers, and the workers who wash the sewers on the way to purchase goods. Wander around and take some pictures with a "country taste".
Now, he is trapped by hundreds of mobile phones.
Business
At around 2:30 in the afternoon, someone shouted at the door. After a few days, they couldn't get a bowl of ramen. They were "disappointed".
Cheng Yunfu relented and opened the door again.
Someone was carrying a large bag of fried peanuts and wanted to give it to him.
He quickly said, "Don't give me anything, I don't want anything, and don't transfer money to me. I sell a bowl of noodles for 3 yuan."
A woman holding a child said that they came from the northeast and wanted to drink a bowl of ramen, and they were leaving tomorrow.
Cheng Yunfu listened and said, yes, I am ramen today.
There was cheers at the scene. He turned his head and went into the yard, rolled up his sleeves, and prepared to move the case. Hu Lirong, his sister and his wife hurriedly put on an apron to help.
Move the chopping board, wash basin, raise the stove, and boil water.
Cheng Yunfu wore a brand-new chef's uniform from the town government and began to make noodles.
From time to time, the anchor called him. He took a look and continued to knead the noodles. Some people shouted from behind. They couldn't see them. When he shook the noodles, he turned around to meet everyone's requirements.
"Brother Ramen is kneading noodles." "The first bowl of ramen noodles is beginning to cook." There was a lot of noise at the scene. Hundreds of mobile phones broadcast the same content almost at the same time, and someone raised the volume from time to time. "The network is stuck again, can you hear me clearly? ?"
Business opportunities have emerged.
A young man intends to "rent WiFi" here.
He worked out an account, pulled a cable, and bought a router at a cost of 1,000 yuan, which can be shared by 13 people at the same time, and 30 yuan a day will be paid back soon.
A Peng from Hebei is the person in charge of an agricultural product e-commerce company. He hopes to sign the Ramen brother. The price negotiated by the team is 3 million. He brings a development route planned for the Ramen brother. Endorsement of agricultural and sideline products, and then do public welfare to maintain traffic."
Two days later, he could not see Cheng Yunfu alone. Cheng Yunming conveyed his brother's thoughts, "He doesn't want to sign a company."
On the slightly gentle slopes along the road, red banners hung among poplar trees, and drones and paragliders flew over the courtyard.
Many villagers started business right away, putting on chestnuts, sweet potato fries, and homemade strawberries, and hanging them with "Ramen Brothers Hometown Specialties"; spinning carts and game consoles were also put on, and some people pulled dozens of them. Only the geese are circled and used as a reward for the circle.
Some villagers drove a tricycle in the morning to pull a cart of drinks, snacks, and cigarettes, which could be sold out at night; a few women in the village bought meat and leeks, put them on the dumpling stall, and cooked them now and put them in the porcelain bowls at home. , There are more than 20 bowls for ten yuan. Some people praised the amount. They replied, "We can't shame Ramen brother."
A young couple is holding a six-month-old daughter guarding the barbecue stall. Their stall is placed on the way to the Ramen brother's house, only a dozen meters away.
They can sell for about 1,000 yuan a day. In order to save money, they take their daughter to sleep in a truck.
Zhang Tingxia, the acting secretary of Yangshuxing Village, said that the flow of people and vehicles in and out of the village is too high these days, and serious congestion inevitably occurs in the road section of the village entrance.
The cadres in the village are under too much pressure, and they are most worried about the safety of tourists. From morning to night, there are cadres in the town on duty.
"Many tourists come in by villagers' tricycles, and they feel very fresh. They all stand on the vehicles to take pictures. This is still dangerous. We don't allow tricycles to solicit customers now."
Horseshoe Village, the administrative village of Yangshuxing Village, convened more than 30 volunteers to level the poplar and fruit trees on the roadside overnight. The gravel dams along the river section were filled up, the roadbed was widened to 6 meters, and six temporary constructions were built. Parking lot to avoid traffic jams.
Zhang Tingxia said that the village also intends to take advantage of the enthusiasm of Yunfu to develop. Currently, it is planned to build a square to create a tourist attraction along with the Laohu Mountain and the small river behind the village.
"People from all over the country came to support Ramen, which is also an honor in our village."
A 55-year-old villager is removing weeds from the roadside and leveling the road.
The villager said that they have been looking forward to building roads for many years.
The roads in the village are bumpy and the biggest problem is to transport the fruits out for sale every year. Before the car reaches the entrance of the village, the fruits are rotten and cannot be sold at a higher price.
Unexpectedly, Cheng Yunfu's fire would speed up the process of road construction in the village.
Flow field
After four o'clock in the afternoon, the last bowl of ramen was put into the pot. Cheng Yunfu rubbed the flour on his hands and strode into the house. Three groups of reporters were waiting for him in the house.
A new round of carnival began outside the courtyard.
When the Ramen brother did not show up, various anchors appeared, chasing the camera, and started self-healing performances.
Xiao Liu, dressed as Monkey King, yelled, "Brother Ramen, my grandson is here." Dozens of people surrounded him. As long as the camera was facing him, he looked very excited, doing everything he could and scratching his head.
Here, you can also find various characters such as Zhu Bajie, Ji Gong, Yue Lao, and men with green hair on the catwalk. There is always a circle of people around them.
The anchor Xiao Han mostly sang at the door, singing one after another. He has been self-taught singing for two years, and he usually sings on empty roads and squares. He said that he cherishes such a "stage".
The uncle of the villager who had just finished hoeing the peanuts stood on a high place with a hoe and watched for a long time. "It's lively, more lively than the temple fair." An anchor saw his hoe and hurried forward and asked if he could borrow it. Take a video at once.
The uncle handed it to him, and he shouted "Pig Ba Jie", "Come on and get your weapon."
The woman with a bow tie tied with a red plastic bag on her head, wearing small round black glasses, called "Sister Run Tiao" on the Internet, standing in the center of the show almost all the time, dancing and shouting from time to time, "Wow! ".
Once Ramen brother's family appeared, she rushed forward, pulled them up and started "flurrying".
Someone held up their mobile phone to follow the filming of "Sister Out of Tune" all the way, and whispered to the screen, "There are really everyone, the demons are dancing around, and I am crazy." The number of people in the live broadcast room has been increasing. The more people pay attention to him.
Because she was reported to be vulgar by netizens, the account of "Sister Rundown" was blocked. She sat on the ground and burst into tears at the live mobile phone. She said that she would not do this anymore, "I just want to get angry."
"I also want to live, otherwise who wants to be like this." Without the camera, "Sister Running" calmed down. She said that she was 45 years old and the barber shop where she worked was closed last year. She took two children by herself and suddenly disappeared. Because of income, I plan to follow my friends to learn funny performances, "There is traffic here, so everyone can see us and think of us if there are any activities."
Regarding the purpose of coming here, the anchors are outspoken, "increasing fans, rubbing traffic".
After speaking, I will add a sentence, "We still support Ramen brother, admire him very much, simple and persistent."
“It’s not Ramen that attracts us the most. This wave of traffic is good.” Xiao Liu, a "Monkey King" from Hebei, said frankly that this is a traffic field. As long as you enter, there is a possibility of fire. How many people watch it, even you It doesn't matter what you shoot, you have to be in this traffic field.
After talking for a day, his lips were dry, and the red eyeshadow was smeared with sweat. He said, "The cover is titled Ramen Brother, and the popularity is booming. A free possibility, a free opportunity to increase powder, come Try not to lose."
The online comments are almost one-sided, "This kind of live broadcast chaos needs to be managed", "This kind of very crude live broadcast method is already morbid, because there is no bottom line for traffic."
Later, a short video platform issued an announcement saying that after "Shandong Ramen Brother" became popular, some users went to the local area to take photos, shoot videos, or broadcast live broadcasts, which seriously interfered with his normal life, and targeted a group of hot spots and malicious marketing. Other users who violated the rules were punished.
Some commentators said that the control of traffic chaos cannot be done by relying solely on the self-consciousness of the platform and the self-discipline of the anchor.
The imperative is that all parties concerned from government regulatory agencies to commercial platforms should act as soon as possible, starting from a longer-term and broader perspective, based on their own responsibilities, do a good job of top-level design, and do a good job of standardizing and guiding the media as soon as possible.
life
At six o'clock in the afternoon, the sky darkened, and the lights came on in the courtyard of Cheng Yunfu's house.
Cheng Yunfu walked into the house and shrank on a chair. He rubbed his hands, the crumbs of flour fell off, and the flour that could not be rubbed stuck to the rough skin.
When he is not speaking, he faces the camera with the corners of his mouth raised, revealing two rows of teeth, keeping his expression motionless.
Several relatives and friends came in, stepped forward one by one, put his shoulders on his shoulders, and raised his mobile phone to take a selfie. He seemed to be used to it, and took pictures with them.
The family saw his exhaustion and reminded him, "You are now a celebrity. If someone talks to you, you have to smile more."
Someone on the wall called him, "Brother Ramen, will you go to the market tomorrow?" He nodded, and replied loudly, "Hurry up!"
A few friends took pictures of every corner of the hall, chatting and chatting, and some people were talking, "I will publish a video of Ramen's life later."
He entered the bedroom, closed the door, looked down at the phone photo album, and turned it over when he was in a bad mood.
He stared at a photo taken at the market during the Spring Festival, and suddenly remembered that tomorrow, when he went to the market to set up a stall, there were not enough eggs.
He was going to buy eggs, he stood up to go out, stopped, "I can't go out."
He dialed a call and urged the other party, "Help me buy some eggs back. I have to prepare them at night, otherwise it will be too late tomorrow."
He leaned on the bedside and flicked up short videos, almost all related to him. He clicked on the comment, flipped through it, swiped to the next video, and quickly clicked on the comment.
After 10 o'clock in the evening, the music stopped and the crowd gradually dispersed.
The village was shrouded in darkness, and the mobile phone that was still live streaming flashed a little bit of light.
In the early morning of March 4, Cheng Yunfu was unable to go to the market.
Zhang Tingxia explained that the Guansi Market site was relatively small today, and she was worried that it would affect the traffic and other stall owners.
Cheng Yunfu frowned. He promised to go to the market several times, but failed to make it. He was worried that the customers who went to drink ramen would not find him, "Say I'm not trustworthy and unreliable."
The onlookers seemed to have forgotten about this incident. They were still guarding outside the courtyard, filming Cheng Yunfu, Hu Lirong, reporters, villagers, and people onlookers.
Cheng Yunfu went out to say hello every hour or so, "So many people come to see me, and I don't feel at ease if I don't go to see you."
Someone said that he wanted to hear him sing "Forget Love", he waved his hand, "I can't sing well." He sang a few words, waved his hand again, smiled shyly, and wanted to pass the microphone out. The applause and cheers continued. It took a few seconds.
Cheng Yunfu said that he plans to catch Liang Qiu Ji only once every five days in the future, and he will set up a noodle stall at his door the rest of the time, "Everyone comes so far, just because of my craft, we can't let them go down."
He didn't think about how long he could be popular, he said, "Let's go with the flow."
After 7 o'clock on March 5th, Liang Qiu Ji went to a booth, and the crowd was waiting here early. Cheng Yunzai is now in the picture, and a new day of onlookers has begun.
Beijing News reporter Xiao Weiwei