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Men's care is now mainstream, as studies show: According to a current study, for example, the global market for men's beauty could grow to a record sum of 63 billion euros by 2027 - the largest item is occupied by skincare, closely followed by hair care products.

The growing awareness of male hair care is challenging the industry, as the focus so far has been on the broadest possible range of hair care products for women.

But the selection for men is growing - many of the new products also differ visually from the striking standard.

For a long time, men's cosmetics were marketed in a clichéd way - extremely masculine, monochrome and preferably at Mach 5 speed.

This does not correspond to the zeitgeist of self-care: According to a study by the beauty retailer Ulta, beauty is increasingly being associated with wellness - especially by male millennials.

But do men and women even need different cosmetic products?

In fact, experts recommend that men care differently than women.

This is particularly due to the different ways men and women treat their hair and skin.

One person who is well versed in this area is biologist Thomas Welss - based on his research, a whole series of care products was created especially for men in collaboration with the cosmetics company M: ID.

We spoke to him about the needs of men's hair.

From a purely biological point of view, men's and women's hair is built up the same, but it looks different.

Men's hair usually looks more stubborn, less soft and shiny.

But that is simply because women wear their hair tends to be longer: "The longer the hair, the older and often attacked them, as they in their

life

have been exposed to many influences such as sunlight, chemical treatments, blow drying or hair washes," says Welss.

Male hair, on the other hand, is usually hardly damaged and shows its natural strength.

This can make it perceived as more stubborn and less soft.

The impression that it is less shiny is also related to the length.

Welss: "The shorter and more layered the cut, the less area the hair offers to reflect the light."

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But it is not just the length that determines the care, but also the frequency of hair washing.

“Women tend to wash their heads less often than men, and care products take this into account.

Men's shampoo, which is often used daily, must not irritate the scalp.

If a man uses aggressive shampoo every day, it can quickly lead to dry scalp and dandruff.

A shampoo for women, on the other hand, can be a bit

stronger

because it is used less often and usually has to clean more hair. ”Incidentally, there is nothing wrong with washing your hair every day if you use the right products.

In this case, Welss recommends using a care product after cleaning, because the care performance of a shampoo is limited.

And what to do with oily hair

This comes about from oily hair, explains Welss: “A sebum gland is attached to the hair follicle of every hair - the sebum helps the hair slide out of the roots and protects the scalp.

If these glands are very active, one tends to have oily hair - this potentially also provides the breeding ground for a dandruff-causing yeast fungus.

The male hormone testosterone also stimulates sebum production. ”Men are therefore more likely to have oily hair and dandruff - good care should take these factors into account.

Healthy diet, healthy hair

How healthy the hair is does not only depend on the length and care, but also on the diet.

If you give your body all the nutrients it needs through a balanced diet, the scalp and hair are also given the best possible care.

"Our skin and hair are exposed to different stress factors every day: harmful bacteria, environmental pollution or too much sunlight are some of them," says the biologist.

To guard against this, he recommends: Vitamins, antioxidants, minerals and polyunsaturated fatty acids - these contain omega-3 and omega-6 fatty acids - as solid components of a balanced diet.

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“Vitamins and minerals are vital because they maintain different processes in our cells - and that benefits the skin and the hair follicle.

Antioxidants, on the other hand, protect against free radicals in the cells and thus also help to keep the hair roots vital.

And polyunsaturated fatty acids - found in nuts, flax seeds or fishery products, for example - are important for a healthy skin barrier. ”You should also ensure that you drink enough fluids, because this keeps the skin fresh.

Hair health can be negatively influenced not only by an unbalanced diet, but also by genes.

This is often the reason why men's hair thins with age: “In addition to disease-related hair loss, it is above all hereditary androgenetic alopecia that affects around half of men over the age of 50.

In pronounced cases, however, the process can start earlier. ”Androgenetic alopecia can be traced back to hereditary changes in the genome, explains Welss.

Hair researchers have now described more than 150 of these changes in connection with premature hair loss: "Changes in the control of the male hormone testosterone are particularly well known," says the biologist.

And further: "If the effect of testosterone on the hair follicle is no longer

controlled

normally

, this can lead to a shortening of the growth phase and, over a longer period of time, to the complete miniaturization of the follicle." The first bald spots appear, which widen over time.

Reduced hair volume can also be a result.

What do anti-hair loss products help?

Care products with special active ingredients should help - or at least slow down the process.

However, one shouldn't expect too much from it: "It is clear that cosmetic products do not interfere with the genetic make-up," says Welss.

Rather, with products against hair loss, they want to try to stimulate the hair follicle in alternative ways so that the hereditary, negative effects would be compensated.

"Our laboratories carried out long-term drug studies and identified the combination of carnitine tartrate, taurine and Echinacea Pupurea, the extract of the coneflower, as particularly effective against premature hair loss," says the biologist.

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The substances can do that in detail: Taurine is known for its positive effects on the skin, but it also has positive effects on the hair follicle: "Taurine protects the follicle from premature hair loss," says Welss.

Carnitine tartrate, on the other hand, is an important endogenous building material that is involved in burning fat and thus in the energy balance of cells: "Scientific studies show that carnitine tartrate supports the hair follicle with energy during the growth phase, the follicle cells stay longer in the growth phase," says the biologist.

The Echinacea purpurea extract is known for its beneficial effects on colds.

Even more: “The anti-inflammatory effect helps reduce scalp itching.

Our research also shows that this extract also has a positive effect on hair growth. ”According to the researcher, this stimulation of the hair follicle also produces more keratin, the building block for the hair fiber.

Mild care in cold temperatures

Itchy scalps and dandruff are particularly common in the cold season.

The scalp is dry.

This is due to the temperature differences, cold outside and warm inside, as well as the dry air - this removes moisture from the skin.

“Long, hot showers can also help.

When the scalp dries out, it can become tight, itchy and prone to flaking, ”says Welss.

A mild shampoo is particularly important then, so as not to further dry out the natural skin protection, the scalp sebum.

Other moisturizing care products such as a corresponding conditioner can help.

The biologist sums up the most soothing ingredients: “Shampoos with cocamidopropyl betaine are ideal, they gently cleanse the scalp.

Allantoin, bisabolol, panthenol or other plant ingredients are also helpful. "

If the itching is too strong to ignore, massage it away gently with your fingertips.

This also stimulates the blood circulation and thus activates the regeneration of the scalp.

Scratching, on the other hand, damages the skin, which can result in even more extreme irritation.

The hair dryer and styling products should also be used sparingly in this case.

If you can't do without styling, it is better to use hair wax or pomade, as this is less of a strain on the hair and scalp.

By the way, wearing hats only helps to a limited extent to protect the scalp from irritation.

Although it keeps out the dry air outside, it also creates a negative climate on the scalp - this provides the optimal breeding ground for microorganisms that can also cause dandruff and itching.

The biologist explains: “Skin fungi, for example, love a warm, humid environment that is also rich in nutrients such as sebum.

The resulting breakdown products such as free fatty acids irritate the scalp and dandruff can form.

That means, hat yes, but always ventilate the scalp. "