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Beauty Vitamin C: The Most Googled Beauty Product Ingredient And Why You Should Use It
It is useless to resist.
Like it or not (and usually not), it reaches us all.
"
Skin aging
is a complex process that manifests itself as a
progressive reduction in maximum function and reserve capacity of the epidermis
, dermis and hypodermis", explains Cristina de las Heras, doctor at the International Dermatological Clinic (Madrid).
In order for us to better understand the process, De las Heras clarifies that, taking into account the diversity of factors that participate in aging,
seven types
can be indicated
and, therefore, as many lines of action to try to mitigate its progress:
1. Chronological, marked by the passage of time.
2. Genetic, written in our DNA (premature aging, phototype ...).
3. Behavioral, conditioned by our diet, tobacco, alcohol, etc.
4. Photoaging, due to ultraviolet and infrared radiation.
5. Catabolic, caused by chronic debilitating diseases.
6. By gravity.
7. Endocrine, whose origin is in some dysfunction of the hormonal systems (ovaries, thyroid ...).
To all this should be added, in addition, a factor that increasingly arouses more interest in the skin aging process, which is the
role of hormones
, especially,
after 50 years
.
"The skin is an organ 'dependent' on hormones, rich in estrogen receptors and associated proteins. The effect of menopause on skin biology and the influence of hormonal treatments are challenges shared by
dermatologists and gynecologists
", explains Dr. De Las Heras.
During perimenopause, he continues, "the structure of the horny layer is modified leading to subtle changes in the function of the cutaneous barrier, and even to a climacteric xerosis popularly known as 'dry skin'".
As a consequence, "the skin, after 50, is
more sensitive to environmental aggressions
, such as sunlight, cold or environmental dryness".
On the other hand, he adds, there is "a
reduction in collagen content
in the dermis associated with the decrease in estrogen at this age."
The main characteristic, at this stage of life, is "the existence of significant
skin laxity
, related to the
decrease in collagen
in the skin as well as the
thickness of the dermis
."
Another important factor responsible for this laxity is "the alteration of the
elastin fibers
with the decrease of estrogens."
To this must be added "the summative effect of the other causes of facial aging such as the sum of years subject to the gravitational effect, exposure to the sun without protection, and so on."
THE BEST TREATMENTS
Cristina de las Heras reports that, in recent years, several active principles for
correcting the signs of aging
have been added to the list of topical treatments
, such as trans-retinoic acids (tretinoin) and its prodrugs such as retinol, retinaldehyde and 13-cisretinoic acids (isotretinoin), as well as alpha-hydroxy acids and beta-lipohydroxy acids. "
The
retinol
, which is the compound most known of these "enhances the
renewal of epidermal cells
, decreases the cohesion between the cells of the stratum corneum and promotes desquamation".
Similarly, "given that the melanocytes shed their pigment to the superficial stratum corneum, the application of retinol leads to a decrease in some
skin
hyperpigmentation
".
It is also associated with "an improvement in the texture of the skin, improving its viscoelasticity and avoiding the formation of
fine expression lines
accentuated by increased dryness".
The
vitamin C
, meanwhile, is "a powerful antioxidant that reverses the formation of free radicals causing oxidative stress and premature aging."
In addition, it participates in "the formation of collagen in the dermis and is associated with a slightly depigmenting effect".
A molecule synthesized by plants in response to stressors, "
resveratrol
, applied topically, is a great antioxidant that acts, not only against the effects of ultraviolet radiation, but also on estrogen receptors, which is why it is used so much to treat
photoaging
caused by the sun such as purely
chronological
".
It is also "capable of inhibiting the
tyrosinase
involved in
melanogenesis
, offering protection against the possibility of developing lentigos and melasmas".
Several 'in vitro' studies have shown its power to "inhibit the proliferation of some cells, thus suggesting a potential use in
skin cancer"
.
There is still more.
"
Alpha-hydroxy acids
, in addition to exfoliating, are moisturizers. They increase the ability of epidermal cells to attract water, which provides greater hydration to the skin."
There are different active ingredients that are chosen "according to the needs of each skin: more aimed at improving coloration, wrinkles, acne breakouts associated with hormonal changes, etc."
HOW TO APPLY THEM
So far the products that we should use.
The question is: how and when do we do it?
"The most convenient thing is to use an
antioxidant in the morning
(vitamin C, ferulic acid, even resveratrol) to avoid the formation of free radicals throughout the day. They are usually presented in the form of a
serum or very light solutions
that favor their absorption".
Later, we could apply "a
cream that provides comfort and hydration
to the skin."
To know which is the most suitable, we must take into account "factors, such as skin type and its current state of hydration."
Sometimes, he clarifies, "it is not necessary to use cream and we would go directly to the application of a
sunscreen
".
The
sunscreen
is vital in itself "to avoid
damage to the DNA
of the cells that produce collagen, fibroblasts".
In the same way, "it decreases the activation of the melanocytes, cells that form melanin and cause the appearance of solar lentigos and other spots. It must be remembered that
our best natural system for sun protection is melanin
. Thanks to it, UV radiation and infrared does not destroy our skin. However, an excess of sun produces disorders in the synthesis of that melanin ".
The
active ingredients with exfoliating capacity
, such as retinoids and hydroxy acids, are applied "exclusively
at night
to prevent the skin from being too sensitized to light and to improve its tolerance".
To start using it, it is recommended "to apply
retinol
only two nights a week and gradually increase it until tolerance is achieved".
Depending on the needs, "they can be alternated with
hydroxy acids
."
Sometimes it is also necessary to use "a comfort cream during the first weeks of application".
In any case, this specialist from the International Dermatological Clinic emphasizes that "whoever learns to take care of himself when young will internalize these healthy habits for the rest of his life."
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